Maintenance time again...

[jrkrace]

Hey gang..

I'm about to do a full maintenance on my LBZ and I've got a question or three. I'm going to change the trans fluid with Transynd, which I used when I did the TransGo at 1500 miles. Truck has 50K on it now. My question is do I go with the deep pan or not? Nay benefits?

Second question is regarding auxiliary fuel filtration. I'm going to change the factory filter because I have one and I was tinkering with adding another filter and possibly a lift pump. My question on this is do I use a Nicktane underbody setip, or do I use a lube specialist underhood setup. It gets pretty cold here and I worry about the Nicktane setup with freezing as opposed to the underhood deal. I'm also wondering if priming the Nicktane setup at filter changes is really necessary? Kind of messy if you ask me.

Any pros and cons?

Thanks in advance...

 

[saratoga]

I had a deep pan on mine and had switched to TranSynd around 15K if my memory is working. Didn't make any difference in temps... it just took longer to get up to temp which is something you may want to consider being in a cold climate.

I prefer the filter being under the truck because it was simple to put a catch pan under it when changing. Unscrew it, screw the new one on and you're done. No spilling fuel under the hood. Priming isn't necessary, just run for 30 sec until it dies and then prime at the OEM filter. The aux filter setup I put together stayed primed because it was lower than the fuel level in the tank which I preferred to the others that were available. Again, this may not be ideal for you up north, but I never had any problems with it when temps dropped below freezing here.

Had to take a ride in the wayback machine to find this :hihi:
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?53-Duramax-DIY-Pre-OEM-Fuel-Filter

 

[Mad Maxx]

Moved to Maintenance Section.

 

[CtChevy427]

Jim, If you want a deep pan my suggestion in to go with the Allison deep pan. The only thing you pick up is capacity and a bunch of cash by staying away from the pricy aluminum ones. A deep filter and pan only cost me about $85.00 when I switched. I have a dealer right by me if you need one.

I think with a good fuel additive you will be OK with a filter set up on the frame rails. After all your fuel runs up exposed steel lines now. Take a look at the Air Dog II set up might be a little over kill.....

 

[WarWagon]

If your frame rail filter freezes up, your fuel tank and lines are in trouble as well. See if you can get a fuel heater installed before the filter. When everything is stone cold, and the fuel has waxed, location will not matter. It is when you are on the road that the wrong fuel will gel/wax and cause you issues.

Steel lines? So what! It is the wax crystals in flowing fuel that will plug a filter and shut you down. This is why most heaters are in the fuel filter assembly - to melt the wax and get it through the filter.

 

[jrkrace]

Grady, I remember that thread. Very Informative..

I'm leaning toward the underhood deal as it keeps the filter out of the road salt as well as uses what heat there is under the hood. I also kind of like the fact that I can change the filter while standing up...

It seems that the more I'm under my truck, the more I hate being there....Heck, the Denali blew a tire last night and I drove it a mile to my house really slow in order to avoid getting under there at 11:30 pm...

 

[RI Chevy Silveradoman]

I have a Allison (PPE) deep pan waiting to go on, along with Transynd. I also have Nicktane all the way around (The under the bed rear setup and the OEM replacement setup under the hood) and have no problems since new with Cold temps freezing/gelling the fuel. I was just as concerned as you about this situation. I just last year put on a dual lift pump setup. I never had any priming issues prior to or after with either of the filter setups. The OEM primer works pretty well. Now I have the lift pumps that work even better.

I prefer buying pre-made kits, rather than going out and getting all of the separate parts and making my own kit. I have tried both ways, and I have come to the conclusion that by the time you add up ALL of the costs associated with going out yourself and gathering all necessary parts, including fuel and your time, I was always better off with just buying the kit that contained all of the stuff I needed in one shot from a vendor who did all the thinking and leg work. Just my take on it. My preference.

You won't have an issue at all with either setup that you decide to go with. The rear underbed setup or the underhood setup.

No problems at all with filter changes. The tall spin-ons filter much better than stock OEM, and make filter changes much easier and more convenient. Also cheaper to buy than the stock OEM filters. No messes at all. Also less time to change.

As Bill stated, I also use a fuel supplement (Power Service or Stanadyne) with every tank of fuel that goes into my truck. Again, just my preference. I have never had a gelling issue. (Please I hope I don't jinx myself) It works for me. I cut open every filter to inspect, after changing, and I am very happy with what I see. I should have pics in my garage/album.

On Edit: A few photos of my latest fuel filter change. The Baldwin looks as if it stood up pretty well. The inside of the can had no rust. My CAT filter had rust. Notice how the filter near the top looks like only half of it was being used. Probably from the lift pumps pulling the fuel through.