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Low on power

juddspaintballs

my balls are painted!
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Location
West by God Virginia
Figured it was about time to start a thread rather than plug up the new injectors thread.

1999 Suburban 1500 with 268k miles. 207k on this motor but I'd assume all of the bolt on parts were from the original motor. FSD relocated to the grille with a heat sink and the FSD was new with the relocation. I've already changed the fuel filter, air filter, oil 2x, made sure the lift pump runs, just changed all 8 injectors and glow plugs for new Bosch. I had codes read recently when the problem first started and I have intermittent right front speed sensor (probably why my ABS light is on) and a couple of over boost codes. I backed the nut out some on my manual spring loaded wastegate controller so the turbo can't go past 12 psi. I have EGT and Boost gauges only. Transmission was rebuilt about a year ago.

I first noticed the lack of power on a trip over the mountains with one of my motorcycles on a hitch carrier. The bike only weighs 400 lbs and I had maybe 100 lbs of luggage in the back and just the wife and I up front. I've been over these mountains before but without the bike on the back and had no issue keeping speed or even accelerating up the hills. This time, I could not go any faster than 65 mph even when the transmission dropped a gear. Sometimes I couldn't even hold 65 mph floored and dropped a gear. I immediately stopped at a parts store and changed the air and fuel filters. That did not change anything. I made sure my lift pump still worked. It did, but I have no way of monitoring fuel pressure while driving. Lift pump is about 2 years old now.

It feels like a fuel starvation issue. There's no smoke from the exhaust at all, even on startup. The turbo creates boost up to 12 psi before my wastegate opens, so I wouldn't think I should be considering that as the issue. Stock GM-8 on there by the way.

So I ordered and installed new injectors thinking that I probably still had the originals in my engine. New injectors did get a little power back, but not as much as I should have. I also put on a 4" Diamond Eye exhaust today too.

So I think the next step is to drop the tank and see if the sock is plugged. I may go ahead and take the sock out and add an inline filter before the lift pump too. If the sock isn't plugged up, then I don't know what's going on. I'm not against tossing another lift pump on for the heck of it if the sock isn't plugged.

I hope my injector pump isn't bad. Should I be considering the IP going bad with 268k on it?

No SES light currently on either.
 
Getting rid of the sock and such is a good idea, but I would be putting a temporary FP guage to know what is happening. I wasn't having any issues and got the fp bolt from leroy and ran a mech fp guage for piece of mind. There is no way to know if lp is working even if you hear it.
 
X 2 on fuel pressure gauge. Why do the tank improvements if ip needs $ first or rings/ valve job.

I say #1 fuel pressure , #2 do compression check. Both free if you have or can borrow gauges.

Boost gauge will work as fuel pressure gauge in A bind, just use different line from autozone for $10.

Testing ip, there is a sticky here iirc.
 
A fuel problem will show up as boost falling off. Fishbite miss feelings can also be fuel system issues. Otherwise it is getting enough fuel. A pressure gauge that keeps a positive pressure reading at WOT and max RPM in the driveway mean your fuel system is ok. These systems can draw a vacuum and boil diesel in the fuel line so a gauge that reads "0" and no vacuum readings is about worthless. Is it really just "0" or a full vacuum? With issues like this you NEED to know. For testing you need a fuel pressure/vac gauge.

Soot trap still on it? Plugged maybe.

Trailers are 2 more tires of drag. Outside temp makes better than 25HP difference from 66 degrees to 110 degrees. Backing off the TM can make a power difference.

I suggest a good tune and using the OEM vac system. Otherwise the TM costs you some MPG. If that isn't an issue just get a good tune and use the extra 2PSI of boost you have. IE take the turbo to 14 PSI max at altitude. The tune will give you the extra fuel you need to meet the improvement you are looking for with the least $$ spent.

IMO 65 towing the factory turbo needs to be replaced with a bigger one because it is giving your engine an asthma attack. This is the exact reason the resale on 6.5's are so low...
 
Soot trap still on it? Plugged maybe.
Replaced the exhaust system with a Diamond Eye yesterday with no big improvement.

Trailers are 2 more tires of drag. Outside temp makes better than 25HP difference from 66 degrees to 110 degrees. Backing off the TM can make a power difference.

The bike was on a hitch carrier, not a trailer. No extra wheels on the ground.



I'll see about getting a fuel/vac gauge put on there. The tune was going to be next, after I fix the low power issue. I've had this thing over two years now and something just isn't normal right now. I want to get it back to normal before I start doing any serious upgrading.
 
It seems like it was sudden, but it could have been happening over time and I just didn't notice. It's my wife's vehicle and all she does it run around getting groceries and such. I drive it maybe once a week and we rarely cross a mountain unless we're on a trip. I did tow 3400 lbs in May and I didn't notice a lack of power then.
 
Has fuel delivery written all over it. Really need to know fuel PSI while driving, its the most used/important gauge for our trucks in day to day use.

BTW: a public thank you for purchasing the DE exhaust system :thumbsup:
 
Boost/ vacuum. WarWagon is correct in his description. Not a long list of happy -glow shift owners at the 5 year mark...
 
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