nealpellecchia
Active Member
Can an air pocket cause this?
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Low coolant light.
- Thread starter nealpellecchia
- Start date
nealpellecchia
Active Member
1993 6.5 turbo
nealpellecchia
Active Member
What's the best way to bleed the system of air?
Pruittx2
Been around a bit
on top tof the thermostat housing,,, should be a little nut, you can loosen,, to let the air out.
- Staff
- #5
93 uses the 1 wire probe into the top of the radiator. It senses conductivity of the coolant, so if you have contam8nation or something, it can cause the light to come on. Theres a thread here somewhere that deals with thr early system.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Yes an air pocket can, but like Ferm mentioned it's usually build up. One of the draw backs wig long life coolant is they are really high in heavy minerals that are conductive, and can mud up the sensor letting you think you have coolant when it's all on the hiway 3 miles back. If it's too much nitrate then it tells you your out if coolant when the system is full.
I've been wanting to add slow coolant and low oil indicators to my hummer a while now.
I've been wanting to add slow coolant and low oil indicators to my hummer a while now.
Not blown the engine completely up from the head gasket leaks/cracks yet, eh? Or did you get that fixed? 
This combustion gas in coolant condition will cause the low coolant light to go on often. Most of the time it means it...
The system senses a small current going to the mentioned probe. Any dirt on the connection or sensor itself can trigger the light. It usually fails in the "light off" position like Will mentioned.
Check coolant level in the radiator. Points off if you are using straight water and coated everything with rust.
Remove sensor from radiator. Clean it up. Clean the cavity in the radiator. Reinstall. Clean single wire connector to it.
@Will L. Tell me more about "slow" coolant indicators.
This combustion gas in coolant condition will cause the low coolant light to go on often. Most of the time it means it... The system senses a small current going to the mentioned probe. Any dirt on the connection or sensor itself can trigger the light. It usually fails in the "light off" position like Will mentioned.
Check coolant level in the radiator. Points off if you are using straight water and coated everything with rust.
Remove sensor from radiator. Clean it up. Clean the cavity in the radiator. Reinstall. Clean single wire connector to it.
@Will L. Tell me more about "slow" coolant indicators.
nealpellecchia
Active Member
Ok I get it...but still an engine that runs so well should get a shot at a blue devil or cheaper one.
nealpellecchia
Active Member
Loose fuel cannisters was causing a bleed down on the same truck. I found it.
nealpellecchia
Active Member
The big screw in thing opposite the black bleed valve which is so inferior to the frame.
nealpellecchia
Active Member
Foaming under the rad cap hot days up hill.
nealpellecchia
Active Member
It runs perfect with Propel diesel. Misses a bit cold idle regular diesel.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Higher power fuel is helping make up for the loss of compression. The hotter burn will advance the head gasket(?) issue at a faster rate. But with that many miles- just milk it for all you can and start saving $ for a take out optimizer or better yet a new one. Or best yet a p400.
nealpellecchia
Active Member
P 400? What's that?
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Super mega best 6.5 engine made to handle abuse in uparmoured Hmmwvs.
Think "what if Gm had not pinched pennies making the 6.5, what would it be..."
http://leroydiesel.com/products/p400-6-5-long-block/
Think "what if Gm had not pinched pennies making the 6.5, what would it be..."
http://leroydiesel.com/products/p400-6-5-long-block/
nealpellecchia
Active Member
Foam in rad means cracked head or worn head gasket?
Will L.
Well-Known Member
It can. Based on the other threads you put up recently I would think that is the root of your problems.
Seriously your driving a time bomb. Baby it or beat it is up to you. But don't spend any money trying to put bandaids on a chopped off leg. Drive it till it dies, then swap in the new engine. I'm guessing since on the other threads you didn't want to spend money and time on proper diagnostic and repair that your just going to ride the legs off this horse, then walk home. Figure your budget and start getting the new engine ready so when this one dies in the heat of the summer, you are ready to do the swap. My 2c.
Seriously your driving a time bomb. Baby it or beat it is up to you. But don't spend any money trying to put bandaids on a chopped off leg. Drive it till it dies, then swap in the new engine. I'm guessing since on the other threads you didn't want to spend money and time on proper diagnostic and repair that your just going to ride the legs off this horse, then walk home. Figure your budget and start getting the new engine ready so when this one dies in the heat of the summer, you are ready to do the swap. My 2c.
nealpellecchia
Active Member
I don't believe in proper diagnostic either medical or mechanical. It's just an extra expense.