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Lots of white smoke (video)

3500GMC

3500GMC

What T F, over
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Nashport, Ohio
Just wrapped up the 6.2 with 6.5 peripherrals, rebuilt injectors and this, that the other... Started up with what sounds like a hung injector and a dead hole. Not too thrilled thus far. Can just ONE injector cause this mess? I have a known good IP bolted up now from the 6.5 on this 6.2. Also, I set the pops at 2100 on the injectors that I rebuilt with new Bosch nozzles. I don't think pop pressures could do this? :confused:

Please advise.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ykWrmgP3gc
 
Looks like IP is too far advanced , move IP slightly to passenger side to see if it improves

Do me a favor get a piece of screen cloth and put over the inlet of that turbo held down with a 3-4" hose clamp, or "rig" the filter in place temporarily, I have horrible visions of something like that rag on the inner fender flapping in the breeze in the video being sucked in and things going from what looks to be timing related to far worse.

True story buddy of mine brand new rebuild with the block he had searched months for, 1st trial run, started his truck upper intake open and sucked in a shop rag similar to yours and trashed the engine/split the block.
 
Im guessing it continues that way. Probably a timing thing like TD said. Do you have the cold advance hooked up, maybe disconnect it and give it a try
 
according to my GM book on the DB2 6.5s if the cold advance is off it'll smoke white when cold. I highly doubt that it'd be that much smoke, but it could be part of it. When my IP was bad on my blazer it billowed white smoke like that on a cold start and skipped like crazy. The engine also shook like crazy. Are you sure the IP is good?

Also I doubt it's air in the system. I've had 4 injection line off my blazer and left 4 intact and full of fuel, which meant only one bank of cylinders was running when started after all the lines were re-installed, and it didn't smoke anywhere near that bad. It skipped and coughed like mad, however the shaking and missing stopped after about 5-10 seconds with a little bit of go pedal assistance so it wouldn't stall.
 
Turbine Doc said:
Looks like IP is too far advanced , move IP slightly to passenger side to see if it improves

Do me a favor get a piece of screen cloth and put over the inlet of that turbo held down with a 3-4" hose clamp, or "rig" the filter in place temporarily, I have horrible visions of something like that rag on the inner fender flapping in the breeze in the video being sucked in and things going from what looks to be timing related to far worse.

True story buddy of mine brand new rebuild with the block he had searched months for, 1st trial run, started his truck upper intake open and sucked in a shop rag similar to yours and trashed the engine/split the block.
Click to expand...

Ratman was most certainly NOT happy about that incident. It defiantly keeps me on my toes when I'm working on the truck and it has anything less than an operational induction system.


X2 on the timing issue. Do you have access to something like Car Code to check your TDCO?
 
Turbine Doc said:
Now did I say it was Ratman, I was trying to save his dignity some ):h
Click to expand...

My mistake, guess I missed that detail :rofl:


Though on a serious note, I just watched the video again, and saw the shop rag "waving in the breeze" sitting on the fender well. Defiantly NOT a good place for it.
 
Ok I moved the rag. Happy?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0rMAKU9fBU

Had a chance to get more run time on the 6.2. I did find the timing to be advanced, maybe a 1/16 of an inch, so I went the same amount to the passenger side and it barely idled. Same billowing white cloud that reeks of diesel... I ended up at zero, marks even up, to get to Op temp. Has a very prominent dead hole that I do not have a very good feeling about. (the feeling of futility)

No bubbles or boiling over in the cooling system.
Cracking open the injector lines one at a time makes it chug even more. All 8.
Still chugs under load.
Seems to really increase the smoke on up to 3000 RPM free rev. Never really clears up.
I could have two junk IP's or another junk engine, or both...
 
Any noticeable odor to the smoke, coolant/oil/fuel ??? Is it worth swapping a few injectors around to see if you can change the prevailing clack.clack, or maybe shoot the exhaust manifold with IR gun to "see" the "cold one ".

Oh good job on moving the :thumbsup: I guess the paper in video was to demonstrate rag was being influenced by blowing air vs suction ???

I wasn't picking on you per-sei it's just I've been working around turbines since 1980, and rule 1, it it looks like there might be a chance of a FOD event occurring stop and take care of it, it is not worth the risk however slight the risk may seem.

Where is the smoke from passenger side head coming from ???
 
I'm not as up on mech IPs as I'd like to be, is the "wick turned up" on that IP, a couple of spots in that video it looked like a brief clear spot of the exhaust, before coming back to heavy smoke again.
 
This can happen from being too retarded

TD you never seen blowby before? Thats not smoke.

Do you know if the cold advance is functioning? Or even hooked up? If you unplug the CTS on the tstat xover perhaps it will max advance it and see what it does. Or if it is already unplugged hook it up to stop it from max advancing. Or just short harness contacts together to make it give no advance.

Thesre are newly rebuilt injectors I gather from the first post.
 
The DB2's cold advance is either on or off. There's no variance to it. 12V to it and it's on, remove the voltage and it's off. It's a solenoid in the top cap of the IP that is switched on and off by a temperature switch(mines in the rear of the passenger side head) that's closed until a set temperature(~120*F i believe) and then the switch opens the circuit. It changes the IP housing pressure which changes the timing. My books call it the Housing Pressure Cold Advance solenoid, or HPCA solenoid for short. Going by the diagrams i have the solenoid looks to block off the return fitting in the IP cap, causing the housing pressure to have no "vent" out so the pressure increases, which in turn advances the timing ~3*. I'll see if i can get a clear enough photo of the diagram to post it up for you guys.

I'd say you've either got a dead IP, or a dead hole. I don't like the sound of that clacking either. Sounds quite metallic, like two parts hammering eachother to death.

My static timing was advanced ~1/16" and it ran better than when the marks were lined up.
 
I hate to say but it smokes and sounds like my 98 with one dead hole.

I would do a comp test, maybe one inj is stuck.
 
Bummed valve perhaps? Smoked and run like mine did on a bad valve.

Isolate cylinders. Loosen inj lines until symptoms don't get worse.............
 
iamdave0887 said:
The DB2's cold advance is either on or off. There's no variance to it. 12V to it and it's on, remove the voltage and it's off. It's a solenoid in the top cap of the IP that is switched on and off by a temperature switch(mines in the rear of the passenger side head) that's closed until a set temperature(~120*F i believe) and then the switch opens the circuit. It changes the IP housing pressure which changes the timing. My books call it the Housing Pressure Cold Advance solenoid, or HPCA solenoid for short. Going by the diagrams i have the solenoid looks to block off the return fitting in the IP cap, causing the housing pressure to have no "vent" out so the pressure increases, which in turn advances the timing ~3*. I'll see if i can get a clear enough photo of the diagram to post it up for you guys.
Click to expand...

Diagram would be great. So if you unplug that coolant sensor it would make it always cold advance, and if you short it it will never cold advance.
 
buddy said:
Diagram would be great. So if you unplug that coolant sensor it would make it always cold advance, and if you short it it will never cold advance.
Click to expand...

Flip what you said the other way around. If you unplug the sensor, you open the circuit and there's no cold advance, as well as no high idle, since they are on the same circuit. Lack of cold advance can cause white smoke at idle, but not in the quantity the OP is seeing.

Short the wiring to permanently close the circuit and the cold advance and high idle will stay on all the time.

I"ll see if i can get a good scan of the diagram for you.
 
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