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Looking to swap out my 6.2 diesel to a 2 STROKE 4-53T any thoughts ?

J

just-j

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Well.... it been a little while since I posted.

But, I have a pretty nice OLD 6.2 Chevy Crew with a "weak" 6.2 diesel......

I've been thinking about a DETROIT 4-53 TURBO.

Any thoughts / suggestion ??

Has anyone here done an 4-53 swap before ??

Does anybody know any "good mods" to make a 4-53T run better ??

Open to any suggestions.

Thanks for looking.
 
Look on youtube as theres a few DETROIT swaps on there. I believe most go with the 2-53 or 3-53 due to the sheer size of the DETROITS VS most automotive based engines. The 4-53 is still a big engine.
 
Yes, 3-53 military aluminum block is what I would look for. The 4-53 in iron is a bit of weight. Kinda wonder about the mpg being low, iirc they are not the most efficient engines. Long life though. Look up injector improvements, coating and balancing pistons. They tend to do well with SMALL amounts of propane mist in equipment operation. Really designed for more of a maintained speed rather than up and down rpm. Good luck, and sell those 6.2 parts rather than scraping.
 
I've been looking at YOUTUBE & searching info on 4-53T engines.
From what I've gathered..... GOOD engines, suppose to get GOOD mileage ...better torque than a 6.5T and 454(gas) and were used in Med-duty CHEVY truck ...like C60 C70 and was an "option" for better fuel mileage.

And most guys...like the way the 2stroke diesel sounds..... and JAKE BRAKES.... you might have a pretty good 1ton Chevy that can "tow /haul" can "do" the job somewhat efficiently...hopefully than an 6.2/6.5T and 454.

And speaking of JAKE BRAKES for a 4-53T...... Does anyone know someone, that might want to sell them reasonable ??

Let me know...

Thanks for looking.

Regards,
 
Why not just get a C60? Chop the frame and drop a Kodiak pickup bed on it. By the time you get over the cost of the swap you can find a MD truck that will match the engine likely for less $. Again you can wake up a 6.2/6.5 with a good turbo for towing or unloaded and the 6.2's are dirt cheap.

To wake up your 6.2 you could get the banks turbo kit minus the turbo and drop a HX40II ot ATT on it and 4" out back. Then get a 6.5 (.39) plunger IP to replace the weak 6.2 pump. It will get out of it's own way and this is less than $2500 in new parts. You can really get crazy and spool valve it, stall converter it, and/or Moose IP...(This will require bigger precups in the heads.)

Or just drop a 12v Cummins in it.
 
I did a 4-53 conversion in my 1964 Chevy K10 many years ago in the late 70's. I later added a turbo after replacing the block with a turbo block and turbo valves. It was fun to drive on the highway but not so much in town. I only had a 4 speed trans with granny low first gear. You really need lots of gears for that engine. It is heavy like about 1200 lbs. dry and it will lean quite a bit in the front when turning unless you add some extra suspension. My springs were leaf so I added a couple of leafs in the front. I would get about 18 mpg on the highway with 3:07 gears in the rear end. Currently I am rebuilding the engine with crosshead pistons. I had trunk style ones before. The aluminum blocks are kind of rare. If a conversion is what you want, do it. I love the sound of the 2 cycle detroits but they are loud. You can hear the blower chime in around 1600 rpm. If you have any questions, just ask. I have info about engine dimensions and weight. Good luck. I am in california.
 
alum gama goat 353 are about 110 hp if you change that square tube manifold,,, if u double seal the blower shaft, turbo it and put in N60/65/or 70 injectors u can get to almost 170 horse but at only 2800 rpm,u don't think they pull, look up shafer diesel Detroit diesel Toyota pickup on u tube, he,s getting about 450 hp out of 159 cubic inches, buckwill owner at Detroit diesel yahoo groups
 
Found some information you might be interested in

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=27946&page=2


https://www.powerlinecomponents.com/literature/detroit_diesel/ddc_drawings.htm

https://www.powerlinecomponents.com/literature/detroit_diesel/ddc_brochures.htm
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IMG_3449.jpg

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we have a 453T factory installed in a GMC 6000 (I assume same a C60, rather than C65, but could be wrong) and its a tight enough fit in there, I cant imagine how one would shove one in a C30 or smaller.
 
valor said:
I did a 4-53 conversion in my 1964 Chevy K10 many years ago in the late 70's. I later added a turbo after replacing the block with a turbo block and turbo valves. It was fun to drive on the highway but not so much in town. I only had a 4 speed trans with granny low first gear. You really need lots of gears for that engine. It is heavy like about 1200 lbs. dry and it will lean quite a bit in the front when turning unless you add some extra suspension. My springs were leaf so I added a couple of leafs in the front. I would get about 18 mpg on the highway with 3:07 gears in the rear end. Currently I am rebuilding the engine with crosshead pistons. I had trunk style ones before. The aluminum blocks are kind of rare. If a conversion is what you want, do it. I love the sound of the 2 cycle detroits but they are loud. You can hear the blower chime in around 1600 rpm. If you have any questions, just ask. I have info about engine dimensions and weight. Good luck. I am in california.
Click to expand...
Hey Valor, I've been wanting to do this conversion since I got this truck. I need to know how to mount the front of the engine to the crossmember, and what I need to do for the rear bellhousing mounts as well.
 
WarWagon said:
Lots of ways to wake up a weak 6.2...
Click to expand...
I put a Banks turbo on my J code 6.2 and it had far more power than stock, about 210 hp. I'm going to do an aluminum 3-53 swap in the M1008 I have now. Yeah you can wake up a 6.2 but that engine is just a time bomb. 2 stroke Detroit's are pretty much bullet proof.
 
84M1008 said:
I put a Banks turbo on my J code 6.2 and it had far more power than stock, about 210 hp. I'm going to do an aluminum 3-53 swap in the M1008 I have now. Yeah you can wake up a 6.2 but that engine is just a time bomb. 2 stroke Detroit's are pretty much bullet proof.
Click to expand...

No argument although a couple other engines are more of a grenade than a 6.2/6.5. Like a somewhat modern Ford 6.0 or antique Olds 5.7 diesels.

It's more from a budget standpoint that I recommend waking up a 6.2/6.5. When (and if) it goes "BOOM!" then one can decide what they want to drop in. I have had "bullet proof" Cummins 5.9's go "BOOM!" and the bad rebuild making a mere 500 miles doesn't count. Cummins is proud of their parts so the inexpensive 6.X parts are an advantage. So spare me the "Bullet Proof" BS: you want something unique thus past engine reputation isn't the point rather an excuse of something better to justify a unique swap.

With diesel prices and quality vs. gasoline I recommend considering a gas engine swap. A 502 crate engine ready to run is in the conversion price ballpark. Make dammed sure you can insure it for what it's worth because texting and FB Darwin Award candidates are all over the damn place wrecking things, and also fire, theft, floods.

If you love the 453T engine ... I would suggest get something the engine came in and trick that out. @GM Guy A chopped frame and pickup bed on a GMC 6000 would be a fun daily driver. With the conversion cost who gives a F about MPG (or GPM) anyway. :woot:
 
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WarWagon said:
No argument although a couple other engines are more of a grenade than a 6.2/6.5. Like a somewhat modern Ford 6.0 or antique Olds 5.7 diesels.

It's more from a budget standpoint that I recommend waking up a 6.2/6.5. When (and if) it goes "BOOM!" then one can decide what they want to drop in. I have had "bullet proof" Cummins 5.9's go "BOOM!" and the bad rebuild making a mere 500 miles doesn't count. Cummins is proud of their parts so the inexpensive 6.X parts are an advantage. So spare me the "Bullet Proof" BS: you want something unique thus past engine reputation isn't the point rather an excuse of something better to justify a unique swap.

With diesel prices and quality vs. gasoline I recommend considering a gas engine swap. A 502 crate engine ready to run is in the conversion price ballpark. Make dammed sure you can insure it for what it's worth because texting and FB Darwin Award candidates are all over the damn place wrecking things, and also fire, theft, floods.

If you love the 453T engine ... I would suggest get something the engine came in and trick that out. @GM Guy A chopped frame and pickup bed on a GMC 6000 would be a fun daily driver. With the conversion cost who gives a F about MPG (or GPM) anyway. :woot:
Click to expand...
Well I've pondered a 4-53 swap, but I'm leaning towards a 3-53 Gamma Goat engine and trans. The transmission is useless with the wacky shift linkage but the bellhousing is the most important part. I understand it can be machined to accept a NV4500 which my NP208 transfer case will bolt right up to. The bellhousing will also fit the 4-53 but try to find one that isn't stuck to a Goat engine. The Goat engine also has more of a standard engine mount setup with mounts on either side instead of in front and the oil pan. I don't believe the front crossmember needs to be messed with as the engine is shorter. The engine crossmember will of course have to be removed. I'm just spit ballin here as to how I would do this.
 
Will L. said:
Give added attention to your fuel system. The older designed ones were great but requires the lube in the old- no longer available- diesel. Use great water separator, and add a lube on every fill up.
Click to expand...
The 2 cycle Detroits don't even have an IP. Still probably a good idea to add lube to every tankful, but I do that on my newer diesels (6.2, 6.5, Cummins 12V) too.
2 cycle Detroits do require the right engine oil, though. And it's best to buy it by the 55 gallon drum when you find it, so you have enough to last for awhile. Might not be able to find the right stuff locally.
Here's some info about that: http://www.tejascoach.com/tips.html
 
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No they don’t use a regular ip, but the mechanically fired injectors stick way worse than more modern injectors that do run off an ip. They are especially prone to water damage. If it happens on road trip, the trick is tip off valve cover and rubber mallet smack the sticking injector. But know that this happening is a warning sign that the others are about to do the same, and usually by the time they start to stick you can’t rebuild, they need a new body.

I’m no expert on the 53 by any means, but worked on around 60 or 70 of them and rebuilt 3 or 4.
Not staying on top of oil changes can cause some ugliness. I STRONGLY advise a Centrifuge. The ones with them outlasted the others a long time on the iron and semis here.
 
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