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Looking for somebody to work on a 2006 DIESEL Jeep Liberty. It has a stuck exhaust va

J

jrsavoie

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Looking for somebody to work on a 2006 DIESEL Jeep Liberty. It has a stuck exhaust valve. The head is off.

Near Clifton, Illinois.

The vehicle was taken to a mechanic. H pulled the head and diagnosed the problem. I was told the lower end is good.

I am looking for advice on how to proceed from here.

What does it take to re-install a head?

What parts and special tools will I need?

I would actually just as soon have somebody familiar with these vehicles work on it for me. I have 4 6.5 diesel GM's that need work. I have to farm something out. It just as well be something I've never looked at before.

The Liberty does include a new timing belt.

Looking to get the head repaired and put back together. A new head or a complete engine.

I am also looking for a repair manual for this vehicle/engine. If anybody has a link, I would appreciate it immensely.

What collateral damage should I look for?

Any links to info on DIESEL Jeep Libertys would be appreciated

I have not actually seen the vehicle and it will be a day or 3 before I actually have possession.
 
I would look at the piston and make sure it reaches as high as the others when turning the engine by hand. Did the valve break? If so debris may have hurt the turbo.

What does that mechanic want to finish fixing the vehicle? (I ran screaming with the 1995 when I purchased/pulled it blown engine and all out of a shop yard after getting their estimate.)
 
I have no idea on the mechanics estimate. I am buying the vehicle as is. It was traded in for about $8000 the day before the valve stuck and before they had a done deal. Ouch.

I am trying to explore my options and garner as much info and education on the subject as possible. As fast as I can.

Feeling a bit overwhelmed as I have 6 other projects going right now that are eating up all of my time. And they all need to be done. Hope this turns out to be a dependable vehicle that gets decent fuel mileage
 
Never pass on a good deal, but, have the $ in mind to fix it. Then make a list of what needs to be fixed and put it in an order. Include cost and time.

I step back and take a break when I get overwhelmed. Usually it is with the engine about ready to go back in. Above all my rule is to keep 1 vehicle running and I have had to carpool to get to work when I have had 2 down.

They are never done and when you think they are mice/critters/etc. show up and eat wires. I am getting good at re-doing jobs due to warranty parts now.

I ran the numbers once and it would be cheaper for me to own a brand new truck. The Dodge 2500 CNG was a serious contender with CNG stations in reach. Yet I own a 'classic' car that no one is going to steal or gawk over too long. The comments about the paint colors is all I have to put up with. (If it was ever in a single vehicle wreck there would a report of a 7 vehicle pileup from all the different parts.)
 
Yep, My issue is I've been down a long time and consequently our vehicles all need major servicing at once. As does everything else on the property. They all need glow plugs and injectors checked, They all need complete servicing, including all filters and fluids. Tahoe and 96 Suburban needs an intake and new fuel lines. 98 burb needs trans installed and who knows what else.
Roof on the house is leaking, shed needs wiring, And I spent a whole week doing just about nothing because I was all messed up on a new drug they tried. Didn't work out so well and I only took 3 doses. I have a long list of reactions to medications.
I think I found a guy I can work with on getting the Jeep put back together so I can concentrate on other things.
 
CAn anybody find me a set of service manuals for this vehicle?

It's a whole new adventure trying to learn a new vehicle. I'm not that good with the vehicles I have.

It has 142,000 miles, needs glow plugs, injectors, EGR delete
 
Been there didn't see one. I could have just missed it. I've always sucked at searching and finding stuff. I can't even find threads in this forum that I know are there. LOL
 
Thanks I found a set of manuals and have them here. Now I'm still trying to learn more about the vehicle before I get to deep in it.

It's kind of a basket case and I can't afford to take another hit on a vehicle. Nice looking and in nice condition other than the engine. The previous owner didn't have time to mess with finding out about the upgrades that extend the lives of these vehicles.

Does anybody have a line on how to get a European engine for this Jeep? Or any better ideas. Sounds like, at 140,000 miles, this thing is over half spent.
 
all I can suggest is look on search tempest for a wrecked one and motor swap it.

will the long block be the same from the beginning to the end of the liberty? (like will an 04 be correct?)

how much rust does this one have? is this body style susceptible to rust?

hope it works great for you!
 
Absolutely no rust. Interior and body are in great condition. I'm starting to get a better handle on it. I have it for sale for $2850 right now. The price will be rising fast. I'm looking at investing another $2500 in it soon and then getting it put together
 
Still not for sure on the factory reman engine. I took the head to a machine shop and they said the heaqd is warped and would require to be machined 4 to 6 thousandths.

Every thing I've been told and read says do not machine these heads.

I had one suggestion to use ARP studs and torque the head down. I didn't know if this was even possible. I've never heard of this before. Has anybody ever heard of doing this?

Just doesn't sound right to me.

Rebuilt or new heads ar slightly over $2000 which puts me right back to buying the long block instead.

I think these engines are specific to 2005 and 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD 2.8 diesels.

I would not machine the head. If it is warped underneath it is also warped on top; this will affect the cam shaft holder.
A reply from from the Lost jeeps forum:

Your choices are:

New head;
Reman head;
Used good head;
Take warped head to a straightening specialist;
Install the old head with new ARP studs and torque it down flat.

Installation sequence is in the FSM. Zigzag the interiors then do the outer ones in a loop.

I am waffling here between having the head repaired, A new head, a reman head or a reman engine. The Jeep has 140,000 miles on it. I have no idea the condition of the bottom end.

I did not see this the first time I looked. "Install the old head with new ARP studs and torque it down flat'

I did not realize that was even an option. Is this a good option?

Does anybody have a good source for a head?

What does it cost to have the head straightened? I it cost effective or result history effective, compared to the other alternatives?

Where can I get this done?

Does anybody have any advice on where to turn at this point? I am actually leaning towards getting the long block from a dealership now.

Bottom line is I would like opinions on where I will get the most bang for my buck.

Thanks
 
how much is the dealer longblock? new or rebuilt?

it would be a clean slate for sure, and would it carry a warranty, and if it does, is it void if anyone but the dealer does the install?


frankly I have never heard of a head straightener, but anything is possible these days.
 
so after reading post 13 that makes it a reman longblock from the dealer if I understand correctly?

is there any warranty? will they allow you to put ARP studs in, or will that void the warranty?

other than the off chance of finding a rolled one with a good engine, it will be tough to find parts, so the dealer re-man is looking better and better.

are these things naturally rust resistant (fenderwells that shed slop well, composites, etc.) or was this one just very well cared for?

what kind of mpg can these things get?
 
Warranty is 3 years 100,000 miles.

I read that ARP studs would not void the warranty, but I have trouble believing that

This one wasn't cared for all that great. It sat out a fair amount of time.

I heard mileage of around 28 mpg
 
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