Look at This CAC---Opinions

[btfarm]

I admit It's been a long time since I gave the engine room a good washdown but this has gotten pretty nasty since I started running the Predator 6k miles ago.



Even got a mess on the driver's side of the master cyl.



Any thoughts?

 

[CtChevy427]

Mike, you could try just cleaning things up and tightening the clamps a little more. Another option would be disassemble things clean them up and use hair spray on the contact points during reassembly. What might work the best would be a PCV reroute kit.

 

[saratoga]

#1 is the oily goop from the PCV oozing out of the boots. Mine stopped completely once I re-routed it and cleaned the connections off.
#2 is your hydroboost starting to go south. Mine looked like yours and then started leaking and leaving drips everywhere before I replaced it.

 

[btfarm]

#1 is the oily goop from the PCV oozing out of the boots. Mine stopped completely once I re-routed it and cleaned the connections off.
#2 is your hydroboost starting to go south. Mine looked like yours and then started leaking and leaving drips everywhere before I replaced it.

1) I'm thinking a PCV reroute is in order soon. Pretty sure Joe had a simple method he used.
2) I hope not but the thought did occur to me. I'll have to take a closer look.

It's getting a good cleaning this Saturday.

 

[stacks04]

The power steering lines/hydroboost lines are notorious for leaks on these. If its not them then the hydroboost is leaking. Yes a reroute is definately in order. your engine and oil will thank you for it.

On a side note is the predator capable of turning off the egr? If so, while your in there for the re route I would put in the egr blocker plate. Between the pcv and egr the internals get mighty nasty.

 

[btfarm]

No the Predator won't shut off the egr code. Joe I recall reading that you had a pretty easy method of pcv reroute. Can you give a few details / pics?
Warranty and emissions requirements are not a concern for me.

 

[stacks04]

Sure Mike. I will get some pics tonight when I get home. Its not to bad to do just a little labor.

Parts list:
Aproxx 6' of 5/8 rubber heater core hose
1- 5/8" coolant hose tee. Usually made of higher temp plastic
5-worm gear hose clamps
1-1" rubber chair leg cap. (iirc its 1", its been a while)

The factory pcv pipe has metal ends that bolt to the valve cover, I cut the crimps where the metal meets the rubber and reused the metal ends so they seal nice to the valve cover, and they also seal nice to the new rubber tubing because they have the factory flare in them.

From there I got 2 pieces of iirc 5/8 tubing about 12" each, slide them over valve cover tubes and clamp. On mine I fit the tee a bit favored to the pass side for outlet tube routing. Adjust according to your own perogative. From there I set up the the tee as I saw fit, and slid the hose on and clamped. The output hose I ran tilted back towards the fire wall across the a-c accumulator then tucked behind pass battery running down the firewall behind the fender liner. It ends on the bottom of the truck and I have mine zip tied to the inside rocker panel pass side. I have never gotten a drip out of the thing.

I had made a filter to catch the oil but since no drips I never put it on. It does put out some smoke when the oil is hot after a long run or towing. More of a steam not a burning oil smoke.




PICS COMING TOMORROW MORNING

 

[CtChevy427]

Sure Mike. I will get some pics tonight when I get home. Its not to bad to do just a little labor.

Parts list:
Aproxx 6' of 5/8 rubber heater core hose
1- 5/8" coolant hose tee. Usually made of higher temp plastic
5-worm gear hose clamps
1-1" rubber chair leg cap. (iirc its 1", its been a while)

The factory pcv pipe has metal ends that bolt to the valve cover, I cut the crimps where the metal meets the rubber and reused the metal ends so they seal nice to the valve cover, and they also seal nice to the new rubber tubing because they have the factory flare in them.

From there I got 2 pieces of iirc 5/8 tubing about 12" each, slide them over valve cover tubes and clamp. On mine I fit the tee a bit favored to the pass side for outlet tube routing. Adjust according to your own perogative. From there I set up the the tee as I saw fit, and slid the hose on and clamped. The output hose I ran tilted back towards the fire wall across the a-c accumulator then tucked behind pass battery running down the firewall behind the fender liner. It ends on the bottom of the truck and I have mine zip tied to the inside rocker panel pass side. I have never gotten a drip out of the thing.

I had made a filter to catch the oil but since no drips I never put it on. It does put out some smoke when the oil is hot after a long run or towing. More of a steam not a burning oil smoke.




PICS COMING TOMORROW MORNING

Joe, this set up will work for the LBZ?

 

[stacks04]

yes.

Now if you guys want to try something, the factory pipe has a tee fitting that connects to the turbo mouth piece. If you can, try spinning that tee fitting 180 degrees within the rubber hose/factory crimps, so the outlet is facing up instead of down. This would eliminate the need for any other hose routing or clamping other then the outlet hose I described above. I tried to spin mine but the factory aluminum clamps are just to tight to do it, but you all may get lucky.

 

[CtChevy427]

I took a look this morning and there are hard plastic lines to each side. They would have to be cut but I don't think a hose will seal very well as the plastic lines are not round. I might try twisting the factory tee as Joe suggested. If the tee can not be twisted the other alternative would be a copper 90 or a reroute kit.

 

[stacks04]

Oh I just saw what yo guys meant. The techline pics show the same setup for the lbz that the lly has. I guess your only option is to buy the reroute kit or buy the special fittings they have out there now. I just googled "lbz pcv reroute" and it is the second one down. Sadly it links to the dp but the vendor is right there and the fittings look nice, only 50 bucks pair.

 

[btfarm]

On a positive note... I took a closer look and there is no sign of leaks from the hydroboost or lines. Looks like all of it is from the intercooler connection. After I washed it down good I put another 3/4 -1 torn on the clamps. We'll see how that goes. I'll have to take a look at the kit when I get a chance though.

Here's the cleaned up version:

 

[stacks04]

Yeah take a look. Just think that everything that was leaking also goes internal to the engine, your intercooler ect.

 

[btfarm]

It's been about 1500 miles since I snugged up the clamps and there is no sign of any further leakage. Come winter I'm going to get serious about an egr block and pcv reroute along with shocks, coolant change and a new serp belt.