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Left front wheel Speed Sensor on 2006 Chevy Silverado

RI Chevy Silveradoman

RI Chevy Silveradoman

At your service
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I was not getting any codes, but the brakes were acting a little funny so I hooked up my code reader. Under the ABS section, I got DTC C0035 which showed the left front wheel speed sensor. Under possible fixes, it shows replace left front wheel bearing and speed sensor assembly.

Anyone else have this issue? I also found that there was a TSB out on the 2006 for this issue caused from corrosion. Can anyone help me with this TSB please?
 
I had a code and got kryptonite bearings (lifetime warrenty). Code is gone but I never had any noticable issues and no bearing play @200K. My truck does show it had wheel bearing work done under warrenty.

Sorry, thats all the input I have
 
Jeff I think it was suggested to take the hub off and clean the sensor and pickup. Unfortunately that's not a real easy job but since you're a bigger guy it'll be easier than me to break the knuckle bolts loose. There should be something on it from long ago when I did mine. '09 maybe.

Sent from my SCH-I535
 
Mike is right, eat your wheaties before attempting to take that apart. The caliper brackets are a right pain in the ass to break loose if you don't have a big cheater pipe.
 
I guess I'll have to work out with weights a few weeks first and then start the job. :)

Do you think cleaning it will do it, or should I just go ahead and buy the sensor?
 
RI Chevy Silveradoman said:
I guess I'll have to work out with weights a few weeks first and then start the job. :)

Do you think cleaning it will do it, or should I just go ahead and buy the sensor?
Click to expand...

"I'll have to work out..."
Says the giant guy...:rof:
I'd buy a new sensor but check first to make sure the hub bearings are good. A new hub assembly has a new sensor with it.

Sent from my SCH-I535
 
tanman_2006 said:
I had a 5ft cheater to do mine
Click to expand...

I had somebody tell me that they used the handle from their floor jack for a cheater. Mine comes off real easy, so I tried it and have continued to use that handle because it works so well. It might have been War Wagon that gave me that idea.

Don
 
handcannon said:
I had somebody tell me that they used the handle from their floor jack for a cheater. Mine comes off real easy, so I tried it and have continued to use that handle because it works so well. It might have been War Wagon that gave me that idea.

Don
Click to expand...

We have abunch of old pipe off of some of the first style balers my gpa used. They are 5ft wide and have no other use, we made 36 2.5' cheaters last winter lol.
 
for a cheater pipe, dad picked up some stainless milk pipe and cuts it to length, about 3-4 ft. looks damn sexy. and is light too. works great to keep on the truck for chain boomers, as it wont rust just riding around in the back.
 
I use a box end wrench and a rubber mallet to break them loose, all you have to do is get the rotor off and find the sensor in the top of the hub. Clean the area before you attempt to take out the screw. There is a socket head cap screw that holds the sensor in, remove it and then gently twist the sensor with pliers while pulling upwards. A little PB blaster or other breakaway spray will help. Be careful to pull the sensor straight up and out. You may have to take a clip off the wire to free up enough length to maneuver it. Stuff a piece of rag into the hole and then clean the surface with a wire brush or wheel being careful not to get debris into the hub. Wipe down the area and paint it or coat it with a rust preventer. Wipe down the sensor and make sure the oring is still good. Put some lube on the oring and replace the sensor in the hole, do not over tighten the screw, a few little taps should set the sensor back into the hub. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Scott
 
tanman_2006 said:
I had a code and got kryptonite bearings (lifetime warrenty). Code is gone but I never had any noticable issues and no bearing play @200K. My truck does show it had wheel bearing work done under warranty.

Sorry, thats all the input I have
Click to expand...

Are these bearings sealed?

bigdisneydaddy said:
I use a box end wrench and a rubber mallet to break them loose, all you have to do is get the rotor off and find the sensor in the top of the hub. Clean the area before you attempt to take out the screw. There is a socket head cap screw that holds the sensor in, remove it and then gently twist the sensor with pliers while pulling upwards. A little PB blaster or other breakaway spray will help. Be careful to pull the sensor straight up and out. You may have to take a clip off the wire to free up enough length to maneuver it. Stuff a piece of rag into the hole and then clean the surface with a wire brush or wheel being careful not to get debris into the hub. Wipe down the area and paint it or coat it with a rust preventer. Wipe down the sensor and make sure the oring is still good. Put some lube on the oring and replace the sensor in the hole, do not over tighten the screw, a few little taps should set the sensor back into the hub. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Scott
Click to expand...

Wow. Excellent. Thank you Scott. :thumbsup:
 
Thanks Tanner. I wonder why they got away from the old bearings that you could grease? I think they list for about $294 for the AC Delco hub assembly near me.
 
I will Mike. Thanks for all the help. I guess I got to get at it and see what gives. I don't think it is a bearing seeing that I do not hear or notice anything different in the driveability. I don't hear any whine or grinding. It may just need to be cleaned. But I am sure they will have to be eventually changed soon due to the age of the truck.
 
I had an iffy sensor but I didnt have any play. I was rebuilding my front end and needed to pull my CV Shafts to reseal them so I figured I might as well put in some wheel bearings for piece of mind. I still have my old ones, I might pull the sensor on one and see what they look like.
 
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