Leaking Fuel Return Line

[DennisG01]

The fuel return line fitting (top most one in picture) is looking pretty nasty and it appears that is where the new "waterproof" spot on my driveway is from. I plan to drive it to work tomorrow and then pickup some rubber (probably not actually "rubber") fuel hose on my way home. I'll cut out the fitting and the rusted section of hard line and use clamps (double clamp, turned 180*) to temporarily fix this. Does this sound OK?

From what I can find out, I need to make sure I get fuel hose that is compatible with diesel as it would be different hose than gas?

For a more permanent fix, could I just flare the end of the hard lines -- sort of like making a "barb"? http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-tube-flaring-kit-5969.html

This return line isn't under any type of real pressure, is it?

Driving it the way it is, the worst case is that I lose some fuel, right?

 

[NVW]

Good diesel rated fuel line will be fine, even the pressure side uses rubber type lines.

 

[DennisG01]

Thanks, Leo. Do you see any downfalls in doing it the way I proposed?

 

[NVW]

It should work fine, a small flare would help but double clamps will keep it in place. There isn't any pressure.

Lots of temp. repairs end up being permanent.

 

[Burning oil]

If it was leaking on the pressure side (larger line) you could use my LP bypass kit on the good side of the union.

 

[dangerousdave]

I highly reccomend using biodiesel rated line. I replaced all my lines about 3 years ago, and just had to do it over again. I sometimes use bio blends, and always use additives. I went out to my shed to get the name of the hose I use now, but can't find it. I may have used it all.

I got it at NAPA, and it is specifically rated for biodiesel. I seem to remember it wasn't cheap, and it has a light green center running in the center of the hose.

It's a good time to trash the OEM LP if you haven't; they're junk in my experience. They are very restrictive, are supposed to flow on fail so the IP can suck through it, but mine failed mechanically not electrically. I took it apart, and was REALLY disapointed with the lack of quality, and they're not cheap"

Get a Walbro from Leroy (Burning Oil / PMDcable.com) and a fuel pressure gauge.
I also reccomend a racor 30 micron water separator filter before the LP and removing the tank sock, but that's all a big project;
you just have a leak.

Rant over; sorry.

 

[DennisG01]

If I don't run bio (no place nearby) is it as important to get that bio-rated hose?

The supply line looks "decent" right now - but that is something I'm thinking about. I just bought a new LP (stock) about a year ago and it's currently doing well (plumbing a PSI gauge temporarily = 1.5lbs under heavy load). I wish I had thought about that Walbro back then, but I'm OK for now.

 

[jrsavoie]

Definately get bio rated line. A lot of stations have varying amounts of bio mixed in their diesel. Anywhere from 1 to 20%. And nobody knows what new fuel mandates or additives they will come out with that will eat our lines. Just as well cover as much of your butt as possible when doing a repair. crankme69 posted a good line that you can order in a thread here someplace.
A full service truck stop will usually have good fuel line on hand.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sh...ngs-amp-useage&p=342047&viewfull=1#post342047

crankme69:

Sharing my learning’s...

The SAE 30R7 rated hose is good for diesel service but not recommended for BIO Diesel

The SAE 30R9 is rated for BIO Diesel service and is my preferred choice.

Pricing / purchasing the SAE 30R9 fuel hose was an education to say the least.

The prices ranges were a joke!

The absolute most ridiculous highest cost 30R9 fuel hose came in at $12.00 a foot from your friendly Napa dealer.

The lowest cost 30R9 I found was had for $23 for a 25 foot roll from EP Cleveland Inc, 7621 Hub Parkway, Valley View, Ohio 44125.

No need to tell you what option I selected…I’m tight no secret there lol.

Hope this helps someone down the road & thanks for all the info everyone!

Best Regards,
Greg

From PMDcable.com :
Just an fyi. I have access to a high quality hose now. Need to check still what all sizes I can get, but for sure 3/8". Its made by Parker and has a nitrile liner. Just supplied some to Bill with his last order, maybe he can speak to the quality of it?

Its a very good price @ $2.50/ft.

The AutoZone hose I refered to above is not available from them anymore and when it was it was $3.99/ft Leroy. Check my blog under my avatar. Click on the blog entry #.
We sell pmd extension cables and the FS PMD or the new Stanadyne PMD with available 5 year warranty.Turbo Boost Bolts and lots of 6.5 turbo diesel parts. Check out the web site.
www.pmdcable.com
http://www.lubedealer.com/pmdcable/home.aspx

If I don't run bio (no place nearby) is it as important to get that bio-rated hose?

The supply line looks "decent" right now - but that is something I'm thinking about. I just bought a new LP (stock) about a year ago and it's currently doing well (plumbing a PSI gauge temporarily = 1.5lbs under heavy load). I wish I had thought about that Walbro back then, but I'm OK for now.

 

[DennisG01]

One of my local Autozones had the 30R9 stuff for $4/ft. I got that. Thanks for all the help, guys! It's all done.

I got a double flare kit from Harbor Freight. Junk. Didn't hold the line tight enough and then the "HD" wingnut stripped under just finger pressure. So, no flare in the pipe.

Mental note.... Clamp off the rubber portion of the line BEFORE cutting the hard portion of the line! Apparently the return line must go to the bottom of the tank.

 

[Crankme69]

Dennis both my feed & return lines are now 30R9, all the metal is gone, cut the rubber at the top of tank slipped in barb fittings & ran new rubber hoses feed & return both. Mine were thinner then a bear can all replaced from the tank to the LP to the FM & same on the return from the block. I also slipped the plastic line covers over my new rubber 30R9 lines & zip tied them to the frame rail. No need to crimp the rubber lines if you cut them above the tank, but I did take a bit of a bath removing the old chit lines & LP. Not a fun job but I got it done without dropping my tank.

 

[DennisG01]

That's a good idea, Crank. I was starting to think the same thing last night as I was underneath looking at everything.

However, I think I'll have to drop the tank. It's a 42 gallon tank and there was just barely enough room for me to stick a locking, needle-nose pliers up between the tank and the frame/hitch to pinch off the return line.

 

[DennisG01]

Oh, just for reference... a 5/16" hose fits snugly over the fuel return line. I can't verify, but it appears that a 3/8" hose would fit over the fuel supply line.

 

[Burning oil]

Also loosen the fuel cap to release any pressure in the tank.