K2500 Suburban rotor removal

[steelydan]

Need to change my front rotors and calipers this weekend. I have done them on my '95 k1500 but never on my 99 K2500 Sub. I understand they press on from the back and you need to remove the axle nut and the 4 bolts that hold the hub bearing on for removal. Then drive the studs out...Any other tips other than penetrating oil? Thanks

 

[bk95td]

The 4 bolts that hold the hub to the knuckle are a real sob. they were locktited from the factory. I would reccomend a very strong impact wrench. I've rounded several of them off. They are a special bolt ,so you might want to check with your local stealer to see if they have them in stock.

 

[bison]

Changing just the rotors and calipers dont requare removal of the hub IMO.Just the axle nut
But if you have to,I use a impact hex socket to brake the bolts loose,and turn them out some.Then use a old socket and extension on the bolt heads and a BFH alternating on both sides to beat the hub out of the bore,cause them suckers can be good and tight in the knuckle. W-40 or such may help.

 

[WarWagon]

Hub removal depends on the number of lugs. 8, Yes remove the hub. 6 lugs, No. 4x4 may also make a difference?

Your new brake rotors... you see the depressions where the studs go? That will require hub removal...

I am going to do a write up of how to do this on the 8 lug 2500 4x4 w/pics. I just spent last weekend doing this. The 8 lug is like the 1 ton and the off the shelf manual doesn't cover it. The dream world 6 lug rotors just come off is covered... I'll post here when I have it written up.

You need to shoot penetrating oil through the brake disc vents to hit the hub bolts. Hitting the head of the bolt also helps but does not reach the rusty part of the bolts.

I would recommend inspecting the brake lines and making sure rebuilt calipers are in stock locally before you even start.

Anyway I broke a 6 point 15mm socket on the hub bolts. There are 3 or 4 depending on what I don't know. I suggest a impact grade deep well 6 point socket.

Then you get to pound out the studs to remove the rotor from the hub/flange.

I would use red lock tight on the studs as you pound them back in. Some were fairly loose and attempted to fall out on the 1st wheel installation. Then torque the lug nuts down, drive around the block and re-torque them again. A week later I would hit them one last time in case they come loose from rust moving etc.

 

[ak diesel driver]

I took some emery paper and cleaned the bore as well as the hub and then used alot of anti sieze. The next time I took it apart it practically fell apart which was nice as seperating the hub from the bore was biggest part of the job.

 

[WarWagon]

Here you go:

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=19267

 

[bphillips]

I assume the same with a GMC Sierra

I have been trying to do the brakes on my 1999 GMC 2500 SLT Sierrra 7.4L " GAS" Crew Cab and have run into an issue to where these rotors are not coming off. I'm somewhat concerned that I'm doing it wrong. From what I can see the brakes on this truck arent the 3/4 ton but the 1 ton. Which means yet another trip to the parts store for the correct rotors.

Is it common to upgrade the 3/4 ton brakes with the 1 ton brakes?

 

[WarWagon]

More or less 3/4 ton comes in two flavors 6 or 8 lug:
3/4 ton 6 lug. (Yes 1/2 tons also, but we are not discussing those.)
3/4 ton that really is a singled out 1 ton, 8 lug. As in not a dually rear...

If you have 8600 for the weight rating you generally have 1 ton stuff for brakes and the like. Correct parts are ordered by specifying the 8600 rating or Heavy duty 3/4 ton option. Sometimes a good double check is that a 1 ton of the same year has the same part number in Joe blow's auto parts system. Otherwise they are giving you the wrong parts for the light 3/4 ton 6 lug setup.

compnine.com and run your vin for detailed option codes including the brake system.

The post # 6 gives you a 'everything went well' how to. Others have had to replace spindles for rust stuck hub bolts.