• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

I've got the itch to buy another truck!

tanman_2006

tanman_2006

Just a farm kid...
Messages
5,694
Reaction score
936
Location
Seiling, Oklahoma
http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/pts/3023691527.html

Doesnt sound bad to me :rolleyes5:. I need a good truck that can tow while I am rebuilding trannies (nv4500's).

What could be wrong and how tough is the engine harness going to be to swap out?

I have a guy that I have bought used engines before that has a 96 EC dually with ~100K (his personal DD) that he will sell the engine for $600 and is parting the truck out due to an accident. I am tempted to get an optimiser too if funds permit.
 
engine harness not so bad to swap, unless it damaged any of the wires its connected to that run into the cab. That mess of connections on the firewall behind the engine. If that are is clean its not so bad and its still running now. Seems like he is assuming the engine is toast, cracked block or something, otherwise why sell it. Or maybe he got an insurance claim and is just going to dump it instead of fix it. What could cause engine harness fire, and close enough for fire department to respond with no major damage? Just sounds weird, but youd be assuming to replace the engine anyway, so why would he make up a story? Unless to collect insurance I suppose.
 
Bad engine harness could cause the knock. Could have sucked water if it was running while being put out.
 
So there is a possibility that cold water on a hot block didn't kill the engine? I know hot iron and cold shock isn't always pretty and 6.5s don't have a good track record for blocks being tough.
 
tanman_2006 said:
So there is a possibility that cold water on a hot block didn't kill the engine? I know hot iron and cold shock isn't always pretty and 6.5s don't have a good track record for blocks being tough.
Click to expand...

If the engine was hot from towing heavy when it got hit with cold water maybe. there's been a ton of 6.2/6.5s that have had water poured on the IP to get it to start when hot. there's been more than one 6.5 junked with a bad knock only to find it was an injector.
 
I'm thinking about it and just scrap my 95 possibly(its body is rusted and beat up, motor has issues but runs, and tranny is alil weak).
 
I'm thinking about it and just scrap my 95 possibly(its body is rusted and beat up, motor has issues but runs, and tranny is alil weak).

List of possible good parts on the 95: 99 506 block, Tranny and tcase (atleast cores), Radiator, Interior, doors, tail gate, and a few accessories (most were trashed and reason for parking), Dmax fan, Buddy tuner for the 94. Heck the 14 bolt SF rear would be handy maybe.

A crew cab dually would be more practical in the long run than a souped up beater. The D/A 2500 isnt standing up to all the towing duties an the farm unfortunately. Tranny limps with heavy load (even unloaded actually), suspension is weak, and engine runs hot towing.
 
Ok so after talking to the guy this is what i know:

New/rebuilt engine has between 5-10K on it

The truck runs and drives ok but does knock

The engine harness is burnt along the firewall, got the wipe motor, ac lines, and burnt the insulation at the firewall.

Most people that have looked at the truck say they cant change the harness its too hard to get to.

Knowing this info what would you say burnt and what do i need to look for? I am leaving first thing in the AM to look at it but will check for advice while I'm on my way.
 
Truck is mine but I need a bigger trailer to haul it on.

Fires right up with some tape to separate the glow harness and a few other wires. Has a bad squeal in the bottom end by 7&8 mains, quieted down after a few sec and has a valve train knock I think. Maybe dropped a valve or lost a lifter or push rod. All harnesses are toast, literally. Crank might be ok, drives and accessories run. No blow by and steady black puff on exhaust.

It will have to have a salvage title (2nd one actually). Has less than 50k on the truck.

My 95 donate a heart, ATT will go in, and I think I might need to talk to bruce about some wiring.
 
Hasnt been hauled home yet. I'm working on it! lol Need an 18-20 ft trailer to get it home I think and i doubt i can get it on my gooseneck trailer, long wheel base will high center.

The only pic I have on my phone shows it has 49,809 on the Odometer just for proof for the non believers. Once it is loaded I will find a camera and show off the pics.
 
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?34120-setup-for-26-000gcvw-on-a-6-5

Uh oh, this has me thinking WAY too much... D/A LBZ combo for 4,000 seems too good to be true.

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/pts/3045589315.html

I love my 6.5's but the dmax has proven to be a fairly reasonable swap judging by malibu's hotshot rig and I am already pulling the engine and wiring harnesses anyways plus I work the dog piss out of my trucks.

Now I'm just thinking out loud so feel free to beat these thoughts out of my head!
 
think of this, the stock 4l80E wont ever outperform the NV4500 in terms of gross overloading, overworking, etc. it takes money for durability in an auto, so why not get one with the durability built in? Allison! I would say a 2000 truck with a Duramax and and allison would be pretty cool if you could get it done cheap. and you could sell me the K47 and GM8! :)

unless if you want to feel the torque of the 430Lb/ft factory program! :) I love it on my 99! (mine being a chassis cab got the 430 no matter the tranny, pickups got 420 on manual and 430 on auto)

it is all what you want to do, but I would plan on keeping it stock config, but I would also kill a few minutes searching craigslist, etc for a rolled duramax! :) plus, you are more ambitious than I, so it would actually get done!

good luck!
ps, did you get it home?
 
Ahhh, the 4L80E can handle 450ft/lbs of flywheel torque, the latest 6.5 was rated for almost that. The stock programming for the 4L80E is not really good for that though. Guys build them up for 750hp/tq and up.
 
Since it comes with the allison for a reasonable price I think i would use it. I would also fab in the innercooler and radiator (probably have to sit it down lower in the frame rails).

I'm not worried about the load handling of the 4l80 behind a 6.5 or even a dmax but i dont want to be shifting in my cruiser so it wont likely see a manual tranny. I figure if i go the allison route with a converter and transgo it will probably hold together fine with 4.10 gears and near stock size tires.

What is it going to take to get all of the creature comforts in the cab to work if i go the dmax route?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top