Is THAT supposed to be in there?

[TurboTahoe]

Hi guys,

I replaced the CDR (tuna can) yesterday on the Tahoe. I didn't actually build a Manometer to test it, but I believe it's the original one, and I've been getting a little excess oil in the intake, so I thought I would go to NAPA and buy one for 50 clams.

When I went to put it in, I noticed that INSIDE the valve cover, there appears to be a thick wad of some kind of coarse steel wool.

Is this normal?

-Rob

 

[DEERE3594]

Mine has it, so I hope its normal..

 

[iamdave0887]

My truck's got it in the valve cover as well. The two 6.5s i tore down in school both had that steel wool like substance as well.

 

[TurboTahoe]

Hmmm. Wonder what it is for?

-Rob

 

[Bullseye240]

It's standard stuff in there. Susposed to keep oil out of the can by trapping it but it's not real effective.

 

[docdray]

exactly, just like an air filter, oil should condense/collect on steel mesh, then be heavy enough to drain back into case instead of being sucked into cdr then engine.

 

[gmctd]

Right - air passes thru, denser oil in the vapor coalesces on the mesh - checkout the Provent and Racor sites for a CCV oil coalescer cannister, removes all the oil from blowby vapors, drain connects back to the sump - keeps yer intake clean - keeps yer charge-air cooler clean.....if ya got one (snicker!) - FoMoCo recently approved it for dealer-installation on all their Diesel trucks, meaning it is officially EPA approved - see Diesel Power-ad mag from couple months back - works fine, lasts a long time.............

 

[TurboTahoe]

JD! Thanks for the response.

-Rob

 

[Detroit Dan]

seems like I've got more oil passing through mine going to the front of the turbo. I took off and cleaned the cdr a couple years ago, but it's always had a little oil push past. noticeably worse now though. any ideas?

 

[Matt Bachand]

seems like I've got more oil passing through mine going to the front of the turbo. I took off and cleaned the cdr a couple years ago, but it's always had a little oil push past. noticeably worse now though. any ideas?

Same here with the oil. Thing is a few years back i had none. I just replaced the CDR for 50bux Napa. I was worried and most members posted back that their intakes had similar oil in it. GM recommends 100,000mi i think, I read elsewhere 30,000 miles is more likely, then I've read that some have 200,000miles on theirs and it still passes the test. I've never tested mine, as the hose thing seems like a lot more work then paying 50 bux for a new one, but I guess I'll never know if my new one works properly, or if my old one still worked.

 

[gmctd]

Pull the dipstick or the oil-fill cap when the engine is hot and idling to get a sense of the blowby effluent being passed into the turbo inlet - higher mileage or abused engines will have increased blowby

The Crankcase Depression Regulator cannister doesn't block oily crankcase blowby vapor unless the airfilter is so dirty that intake vacuum has increased to the point where raw oil will be pulled outta the valve cover - it is straight-thru unless high-vacuum closes the diaphragm - no magic, there - normally, the hot oil-laden vapors pass directly thru into the turbo inlet, aided by blowby pressure, and the dense oil has little opportunity to precipitate out, which is good, as those oily vapors contribute to fuel economy (Diesel engines do burn oil, right?) - however, in winter climes ambient inlet air temps are way cooler, making the inlet path cooler than in summer, wherein the oil-laden vapors cool quickly, allowing the heavy oil component to condense and drop out of the crankcase effluent - thus, you will notice more oil in the inlet plenum in winter, less in summer - quantity depends on engine wear, of course

The CDR in the early 6.2 Closed Crankcase Ventilation systems was part of the oil-fill tube and had condensing mesh in the cap - those required cleaning @~30kmi

The '89^ CDR is of different design, which may require cleaning at 60kmi if varnished-up - if not, no cleaning is necessary - those in deep winter climes may fail when the steel spring rusts

Again, visit the Mann-Provent or Racor sites for most excellent EPA-approved CCV solution to oily intake

Here's a shot of the Provent install in my CRD KJ - Provent cannister is at upper left - upper hose from the CDR on top of the valve cover, upper right - lower hose back to turbo inlet - the clear section will indicate any oily blowby that gets thru the Provent cannister - notice it's clear and un-stained - drain is returned to crankcase

 

[Sunshine]

jd....now you are really confusing me on various subjects ( okay it doesn't take much),, your in puts are much bigger than my monitor can tolerate do I need to buy a 27"...

 

[gmctd]

Just use the side-scroll bar < > at the bottom of the window - my monitor is 19" - subject is Crankcase Depression Regulator (that tuna-can on yer turbo-side valve-cover), Closed Crankcase Ventilation (the overall concept involving the CDR), and available solutions to prevent the oily mess in yer intake, and still pass EPA emissions tests

 

[bison]

Look for tread

"Alternative for pesky CDR valve". I posted last fall, pic of a provent unit installed on my 6.5

 

[gmctd]

Good thread, and here 'tis, for those enquiring minds with that incessant need to improve yer ride - again, this does not delete the CDR - it removes the oil solids from blown-by crankcase vapors, so is intended to augment the CDR, which is intended to block the crankcase\valve-cover vent in event of increased vacuum levels - Provent does have internal pressure and vacuum relief valve, but the CDR, at ~6"H2O, should be left in the loop in event of plugged air filter - run the drain into the turbo drain down at the block :
http://dieseltowingresource.com/showpost.php?p=53233&postcount=1