Intake Swap...

[Paveltolz]

I started my winter maintenance and projects this week. Mostly with the idea of an S to F intake swap:thumbsup: and repairing a leaking valve cover. Passenger side wouldn't you know. Glow plugs and injectors too. Then there's the "while I'm at it stuff!:rolleyes5:

So far I've removed/replaced the passenger's side stuff...fender well, downpipe, turbo, glow plugs (Bosch "turms"), injectors (Bosch Remans), t-stat housing and w/ new T-stat, and air intake manifold. I'll be following Missy's thread on Valve cover seal replacement and to do that I'll need to loosen the 2-4-6-8 injector lines. I don't want to mess up the RTV bead trying to snake that cover under the lines and risk screwing the lines up by over flexing. :nono:

Tomorrow the plan is to do the valve cover; replace the fuel lines in the valley and move the FM outa there; replace the intake manifold; remove the heater 'quick disconnect' which is growing an orange stalactite and isn't quick disconnecting (advice please. the plastic tab cracked and I don't want to cut and mod the aluminum line until I get the POS thing outa there...then I'll finish the MOD); reassemble everything to the passenger side and fire it up and then do the driver's side injectors. Or should I just do all the injectors and crank to my heart's content?

After that, I can replace the fender well on that side and finish it all off by replacing a wheel stud that got sheered off inside the lug and it's done. Simple. Should only take about 48 hours and I leave for Korea in 36! Oh yeah...it's raining now.
:mad2:

 

[Paveltolz]

Observations/issues so far.

Glow Plugs. The SS Diesel "Insta-heat" glow plugs were manufactured by Delphi. I installed them in the spring of 07 and they hadn't swollen however...lately, with the weather getting more to my liking, the beasty isn't starting as easy, even plugged in. I didn't test the plugs post removal but the wires tested good. Number 6 was oily though. On the plus side, without the fender well and down pipe in the road, #8 was easy.

Injectors. I'm reusing the return lines but the rubber cap on #8 tore coming off. Nobody but the stealer sells them individually. NAPA's full injector kit was quoted at $80. Stealer wanted $1.50. Sometimes they aren't so bad.

Intake manifold - Five of the eight "corner" bolt holes were busted off. Only the driver's side over #7 were both intact (see photo). I knew about the cracks at the negative battery grounds but 5! Passenger side gasket and valley looked like the inside of the air intake. Intake passageways on the heads look like that too. All threads on the passenger side bolts, except the two middle ones, were oil soaked and loose, no issue what so ever to loosen and remove...definitely not torqued to 31 lbs. Driver's side bolts threads were all dry. Only the area around #1 intake gasket looked like the rest of the passenger side.

Questions: 1 other than not exceeding the torque specs for the intake bolts, how do I avoid busting up the new manifold's corner bolt holes. 2. should I be concerned about the oil soaked threads on the intake's bolts? 3. Should the new intake gaskets and bolts tightened to proper torque solve the oily smearing that seems to have pushed by the old manifold and gaskets?

 

[Matt Bachand]

New Intake's look fantastic.... gave me a quick thought of doing mine!

Have to think the largest advantage of the painted aluminum is that it will be extremely easy to wipe off oil/pb/wd40 or anything else... mine seems to have absorbed all sorts of penetrating oil and has a non clean look.

You already answered you're own question, torque to proper specs of course and no issues.

Upper intake is a different torque, I think its 17, but don't go by that, double check.

 

[Paveltolz]

Thanks Matt,
I've had the Haynes out for quick reference and dug through the GM ones last night for a bed time story. I didn't see the different torque specs for the under but I'll double check. Planned to go two round with the torque working across the 'clock face' like when I do my wheels. 6-10-5-11-4-10=3-9etc. First at 15lbs and then at the final.

Manifold is powdercoated shiny black and silver. Under side is ceramic coated. I got the idea from Turbine Doc and 635. :bling:

Whole job was under $130 which included media blast (I pre painted my original idea on w/o realizing their pre cleaning wouldn't get it off) and taping off the powder coated area so the ceramic application didn't overspray. I like it, it certainly looks better than the old one!:thumbsup:

Its a nice outside now, 34, so it would probably be a good time to hit that heater quick(not) disco housing with the torch. I'll use my sharkbite tool to see if that will allow me to remove the hose/pipe. if not, I'll cut it and use rubber hose and clamps if I can't get that fittling out. Hose was part of the mod anyway so here goes.

For those that are taking today off instead of getting Wednesday, Happy be-lated Veterans Day and thanks for your past and continued service to your countries :arms: and to your families that support you.:You_Rock_Emoticon:. Thanks.

Can't believe I didn't do this Wednesday...such an idiot:mad2:

 

[docdray]

geeze, was truck in combat-had not heard that many issues all at once in a while. X2 on proper torque. for a 94 its 32 ft lbs, as far as breaking the manifold-make sure you use the right torque sequence(I usually use a 10lb incremental sequence unless otherwise stated) and maybe use a washer to spread torque out.

 

[bk95td]

The intake manifold bolts run into the inside of engine. Open to engine oil and fumes. I used some silicone on the threads to help prevent weepage.

 

[Paveltolz]

Edumacation

Thanks guys. I dug through my GM manuals (unfriendly to the ignorant) and found just what you told me about open to crank case and the proper torque sequence plus sealants and thread lockers. I would have been about right on the sequence so long as I started in the middle working back and forth across the center and ending on the 1-8-7-2 intakes.
31 lbs all around and I'll take that 10 pound scale to heart. Much appreciated.

I'm thinking the blame for the oily vapor blow out might be self induced from when I replaced injectors and cleaned grounds two years back. The nuts holding the injection lines and grounds to the intake were on so tight that the whole bolt broke loose instead of the nuts. The ones on the clamps just lifted the clamp without torquing the Lines. I used wrenches to counter the issue but I had to have broken the seal to crank case and didn't correct that:nono:. As far as the broken ends, I didn't retorque but didn't gorilla them down either so I dunno. I do know the two battery gound points were busted before I started work two years ago. Oh well, I'm just glad to have the right info now and a freash start. As I've pointed out before...
:iamwithstupid: but larning ta reed heps 2. Maybe you can fix Stupid.

Off to get the right stuff for the threads.

I'll check in tonight with my progress or lack of.

Thanks again for the responses

 

[Paveltolz]

For all that was on the schedule to do I only managed to install the air intake. The rest of the day was spent ascertaining that the oil leak I thought was from the valve covers isn't and the quick disconnect removal tricks used successfully by others didn't work for me. New T-Stat housing on the way.:sad:
I did manage to get intake installed without mishap though and that's a plus.
"Shouldn't take too long" to get the thing back together next weekend...yeah right!):h
Cheers and thanks again for the encouragement.
Paul

 

[DieselCash]

That intake looks good painted! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

 

[rob17san]

I like the color of your upper intake with that silicone coupler. Nice! Im about to do the same mods so I will check your thread.

I started my winter maintenance and projects this week. Mostly with the idea of an S to F intake swap:thumbsup: and repairing a leaking valve cover. Passenger side wouldn't you know. Glow plugs and injectors too. Then there's the "while I'm at it stuff!:rolleyes5:

So far I've removed/replaced the passenger's side stuff...fender well, downpipe, turbo, glow plugs (Bosch "turms"), injectors (Bosch Remans), t-stat housing and w/ new T-stat, and air intake manifold. I'll be following Missy's thread on Valve cover seal replacement and to do that I'll need to loosen the 2-4-6-8 injector lines. I don't want to mess up the RTV bead trying to snake that cover under the lines and risk screwing the lines up by over flexing. :nono:

Tomorrow the plan is to do the valve cover; replace the fuel lines in the valley and move the FM outa there; replace the intake manifold; remove the heater 'quick disconnect' which is growing an orange stalactite and isn't quick disconnecting (advice please. the plastic tab cracked and I don't want to cut and mod the aluminum line until I get the POS thing outa there...then I'll finish the MOD); reassemble everything to the passenger side and fire it up and then do the driver's side injectors. Or should I just do all the injectors and crank to my heart's content?

After that, I can replace the fender well on that side and finish it all off by replacing a wheel stud that got sheered off inside the lug and it's done. Simple. Should only take about 48 hours and I leave for Korea in 36! Oh yeah...it's raining now.
:mad2:

 

[Paveltolz]

Finished - almost @#$%^&

Completed reasembly: T-Stat Housing, Turbo, upper-intake, "Quick Disconnect" heater hose mod, exhaust, refilled radiator fluid. Started the truck up and everything up to there was fine. Figured it would suck to have it all back together and discover an untorqued part or forgotten return line under the heat shield.

Replaced a snapped off wheel stud; installed the driver's side injectors; put the truck back together and started up. Started easy, sounded great, drove nice. Drove it around abit and aited for the radiator fluid to 'burp' and when I raised the hood I got acrid smoke coming off the drivers side exhaust manifold. So much for "quality reman Bosch" injectors. #5 is leaking from the body. Wasn't the injector as it is firmly torqued at 50# or the injection lines as they are tight and the return lines are dry. I'll pull it tomorrow and get it checked but I think I'll be purchasing another 1.

Still, it's good to have most of the mess done as tonight the rain/snow comes. I do like the look of the upper and lower intake though

 

[Paveltolz]

Swapped out the injector after confirming the leak was from the body. On inspection, the unit was not the "Made in France" one that I had hoped it would be. Replaced the return lines anyway. I'm done with remans though. It's great to save some money but on this one I would have come out ahead going with Heath's in the first place.
SSDiesel Marine injectors that are junk $475, Remans that even after having tested for spray ($30) but had one leak plus core charge $320, replacement reman Bosch unit plus core to solve the leak issue $70 and I'm right at what a set of HO units from Bill would have cost. Live and learn...sometimes.
Anyway, I've got the project list done and the truck seems happier for it.
Cooling upgrade, gauges, TM, PCM upgrad and ATT is on the 'spring/summer cleaning' list. Who knows, maybe after my next rotation to the box I'll just swap the motor for one of Desiel Depot's units...dreams are still free of charge and taxes aren't they?

 

[BigBlueChevy]

Swapped out the injector after confirming the leak was from the body. On inspection, the unit was not the "Made in France" one that I had hoped it would be. Replaced the return lines anyway. I'm done with remans though. It's great to save some money but on this one I would have come out ahead going with Heath's in the first place.
SSDiesel Marine injectors that are junk $475, Remans that even after having tested for spray ($30) but had one leak plus core charge $320, replacement reman Bosch unit plus core to solve the leak issue $70 and I'm right at what a set of HO units from Bill would have cost. Live and learn...sometimes.
Anyway, I've got the project list done and the truck seems happier for it.
Cooling upgrade, gauges, TM, PCM upgrad and ATT is on the 'spring/summer cleaning' list. Who knows, maybe after my next rotation to the box I'll just swap the motor for one of Desiel Depot's units...dreams are still free of charge and taxes aren't they?

hahaha I'll second that one. Great to hear all is going so well during your 6.5l renovation project. Its looking real good! That intake is looking very sharp as well.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Looks nice, runs nice... nice work... Yeah, I learned the hard way with SSDIESEL too... They just suck.... Oh well. Live n learn.

I have a feeling you'll still have the rig in another 100k, so the choice will come up again

 

[Pruittx2]

...dreams are still free of charge and taxes aren't they?

Not the way the current administration is going,, soon Those will be taxed as well. :mad2:

Your engine looks awesome by the way!

 

[Paveltolz]

Looks nice, runs nice... nice work... Yeah, I learned the hard way with SSDIESEL too... They just suck.... Oh well. Live n learn.

I have a feeling you'll still have the rig in another 100k, so the choice will come up again

Thanks Matt. Yeah I've learned and there won't be another choice to be made as I've selected a Sole Source Provider.:thumbsup:

I may have to change my sig to "I'm a Heath sycaphant!"

 

[Missy Good Wench]

I use "Diesel fuel injection service" here in Portland Oregon.

These guys do it all.

Cost me $268 I believe to get all 8 injectors for DaHoooley rebuilt and put into top condition.

This included new nozzles and internal parts and having the units set to pop at (2000 PSI) and then tested.

These folks are a Stanadyne service shop too and do DB2 and DS4 plus loads of other diesel stuff.

Great people.

I use them exclusively as they stand behind what they do.

Nothing worse than having to redo an injector on the RH side once the beast is all together.


Missy