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Intake Gaskets ... Permatex Right Stuff?

Matt Bachand

Matt Bachand

Depends on the 6.5
Messages
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26
Location
Worcester, MA
I have a new set of traditional intake gaskets that I got from E-bay ready for my fuel pressure gauge install. I will be removeing the intakes to do some house cleaning and get a easy shot for the gauge install, (which btw looks awesome in hand, Stewart warner 114214 white faced, 0-15psi)

I still have some right stuff left over from my oil pan install which doesn't leak a drop.

Over the years I have done the intake gaskets a few times, and I don't think i've been 100% successful at leak free.

My question, as the title suggests, should I use the permatex or use the traditional gaskets??

Thanks guys.

I look forward to the gauge install, as then I can finally replace my Rear tank sending unit to fix fuel gauge and give me 500+ mile range between fill-ups. Been along time waiting...

Racor/walbro install to give me old lift pump to replace dead one.
Removed sock in front main tank to avoid gel-up problem last winter due to gasoline sock.
Install FP gauge to have, and to avoid worrysome diagnoses of rear tank back in service.
Replace Rear LP with old Delco one that was replaecd by Walbro.
Finally replace rear sending unit to complete my fuel system overhaul.

I am going to buy a tube of marine grease (extremely salt resistant) and cake it on top of both sending units, as my new front tank sending unit rusted up after one winter......................

A few months ago I was running this pig with 100 mile range between fill ups... Now i'm at 250mi, and soon be 500+ with a working fuel gauge, fuel pressure gauge, more polished fuel system/water separation (racor)...

Good base for Heath regular pop injectors, hopefully before winter.

I could double that range to 1000+ if I fill my transfer tank too (50 gal)......

Thanks guys.
 
Matt, on my 6.5 upper and lower intake gaskets, I coat the new gasket with grease so they dont stick, then the second time I install them I just coat them with some Permatex aviation form-a-gasket. Some of mine have been used four times.
 
great advice, thanks.


Now my heater core quick disconnect started leaking when I moved the bracked off the lower intake bolts...........

What's the quick fix for this?

I was real ginger with it, and barely rotated it, when its back in bolted position it seems to seal back up, is this normal for this gay thing?
 
Quick disconnect replacment for regular hose, with the restrictor and all, Part# 12597484 Just picked one up the other day, $11.00 from the dealer with my discount ......Now it needs to be installed and the other end needs to be (cut?) to slip a hose on there with a double worm clamp.
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
Quick disconnect replacment for regular hose, with the restrictor and all, Part# 12597484 Just picked one up the other day, $11.00 from the dealer with my discount ......Now it needs to be installed and the other end needs to be (cut?) to slip a hose on there with a double worm clamp.
Click to expand...

MF'er.... No way around this without dealership that's not open?

Maybe it seals back up when installed, like I said, i barely touched it, i can't imagine it cracked just from unbolting it, I just re-angled it without effort....

Probably cracked and fubar....we'll see.
 
My 6mo old FELPRO lower intake gaskets came off clean and easy..

Should I re-use those instead of the new Victor Heinz I got? I've always like felpro.
 
I am going to T the fuel feed line before the IP at the bottom of the valley, Then run some length outwards and attach my sender there. Is that what others have done? How much room in between an installed intake and the bottom of the valley?

Also, where in the valley are my casting numbers?
 
NEVER use permatex or any kind of silicone sealer on intake gaskets. If you must, use high tack or just replace them. almost all autoparts store have that fitting on the help rack etc.
 
Great, sounds good. I have replacements, so I'll just use them. I'll coat them with grease lightly.

Does the fuel pressure sender need to be grounded I assume? Paperwork says stainless steel hose to ensure grounding, I'm using rubber. Not sure how a sender works, But I assume it needs a ground. The lead wire off the sender goes into the gauge, then the gauge has switched power and ground of its own of course.

Thanks guys. Man I love this site. It takes the fear out of getting in too deep.
 
Mine isn't grounded. I have an Autometer. You may need a snubber and an ext hose. Not sure if that is a Dodge issue or Diesel in general.
 
It does specifically say ENGINE ground on the gauge itself, (not the sender) so maybe that completes things... It wont be under the intakes, so I can diagnose that area easy once truck is buttoned back up tomorrow.
 
I would T in in the straight short section right before the IP inlet,that way the hose clamps can be gotten at without removing the intake in case the connection starts to sweat a smidgen.

As far as I know,Only OEM 506 and one chinese maker of 506 block have the casting 506 on both sides of the valley in addition to the back of the block. All others are only marked behind the flywheel. But i could be wrong
 
bison said:
I would T in in the straight short section right before the IP inlet,that way the hose clamps can be gotten at without removing the intake in case the connection starts to sweat a smidgen.

As far as I know,Only OEM 506 and one chinese maker of 506 block have the casting 506 on both sides of the valley in addition to the back of the block. All others are only marked behind the flywheel. But i could be wrong
Click to expand...

I fear the bulk might interfere with the lower intake going back on, as its extremely tight already in that corner.

I put it at the bottom of the valley, double hose clamped on all 3 sides. I jumped LP and let it build pressure for a while and no drips, so I'm re-assembling.

I ran the hose out along an injector line route, zip tied to it nicely.

I also moved my IP ground back to the IP after almost 3 years of it being on the intake bolt with drivers side negative ground :)
 
Amazingly that stupid quick disconnect isn't leaking.................... yet.

I think its the black plastic piece thats not tight, or perhaps they just leak when they aren't bolted to the intake??!?!?! Stupid ass design.............

I did manage to snap an upper intake bolt thought :(.... I was using my torque wrench too, set to 31lbs/ft. Maybe I misread the spec sheet.

I had to go to the place to find it, as i couldn't find it here.

I removed upper intake, removed snapped half, and snugged them by feel this time, not torqued.
 
packratt said:
Little bit too much torque there
Upper plenum to lower intake 17ft/lbs
Lower intake to head 31 ft/lbs
Click to expand...

Yep, I should have picked up on the change of socket head for the uuper pllenum. The place only said intake manifold 31, not upper/lower... OH well, Now I Have a mismatched bolt up there.

ANYHOW, Wired it up all up, and no readings, ran a temp wire to ground to sender to engine, and reading. SO, I used a hoseclamp to attach the ground wire to the sender, and grounded it, all was good.

SO, I start it up and have ------------ 2 --------------- psi at idle, and instantly drops to 0 when driving. ..................... checked at water drain, and had my 6 or so. So I hoped it was a clogged filter (only 5 months old 5-6k miles or so on it)

Internet was down last night, so couldn't post.

Drove to the job early this morning, cringing everytime it hit 0 and would rebound to 1/2 - 1.

As soon as I could, I bought a new flt mgr filter, and wallah, 4-5 at any speed.

Just goes to show how important pressure gauge AFTER flt mgr is, and to change that filter out every oil change if you don't have a gauge.

Here I was enjoying my walbro and racor and stuff, not knowing I was running on barely a piss to the IP............................................. Truck was running great.

I hope to see a mileage increase now. I've been settling in at around 13 average, but in need of injectors, as 5 of the 8 have 130k on them.

I'll give her a new set before winter. HEaths of course.
 
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