Well Got the IP put in and fired up everything was good at idle the tdco was at -1.3 and the pump timing was at 8.4 actual and desired........... and then I thought it was a good idea to do a RELEARN FOR THE TDCO .......... Bad IDEA! It sent my tdco to -2.5 and through a tdco code........ I tried to adjust the pump the other direction and it went to +2.5 and my actual and desired up in the +10.0 degrees for timing...... Is there a sweet spot in the middle I should have not done the relearn at all I read somewhere if you change the pump you should. Well its quiet now throttle is like crazy touchy at highway speeds well before it went +2.5 on the last adjustment I have not drove it since I adjusted it. ANY HELP WOULD REALLY BE APPRECIATED!
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Installed new IP and now TDCO Is 2.5
- Thread starter troe3696
- Start date
matuva
Tropical 6.5er
Well, you'll have to go back & forth till you reach the good value. Stock TDCO is -.025 to -.075, but you should be good till -1.94
I myself prefers the OEM range, as the engine runs smoother and quiet than around the -1.94 (maximum advance).
You were right doing TDCO relearn. The ECM would have done a relearn after 50 key on& start anyways. Better get stuck at home than elsewhere...
I myself prefers the OEM range, as the engine runs smoother and quiet than around the -1.94 (maximum advance).
You were right doing TDCO relearn. The ECM would have done a relearn after 50 key on& start anyways. Better get stuck at home than elsewhere...
great white
Well-Known Member
The adjustment when moving the pump is very small. As little a 1 mm can be the difference between too much and not enough.
Often, i've adjusted pumps by merely loosening the nuts and simply putting pressure on the pump wrench. The movement ends up being no more than half the width of a scribe mark.
I cannot stress enough that the movement of the pump is very very small increments to get it within spec...
Often, i've adjusted pumps by merely loosening the nuts and simply putting pressure on the pump wrench. The movement ends up being no more than half the width of a scribe mark.
I cannot stress enough that the movement of the pump is very very small increments to get it within spec...
matuva
Tropical 6.5er
Good luck! keep us updated 
Well got the timing part corrected seems to run well until 55 mph....... It starts bucking and kicking from 1500 rpm - 2500 rpm back and forth if I touch the throttle it goes all the way to 2500 pulling hard for a second or two then drops FAST to 1500 and surges back and forth very bad and violent and if I am hard on the throttle BLOWS BLACK BAD........... What a deal................ any ideas on this ..... I have good vacuum at the wastegate but I have no idea what it is doing when I am at highway speeds ( thinking maybe the solenoid ) IDK......
great white
Well-Known Member
Trouble codes?
matuva
Tropical 6.5er
Does your lift pump work? fuel starvation at the IP?
Is your IP new or reman?
Is your IP new or reman?
great white
Well-Known Member
hmm, black smoke and "laying down" seems to indicate an air problem.
probably worth your while to check the vac system again. The solenoid usually with throw a code if it's bad.
Do you have a boost gauge installed? If so, you can try wiring the wastegate shut and give it a run to see if that clears you symptoms. Don't let your boost go much higher than 10-12 though. If the black smoke clears up then it's wastegate system related.
Perhaps hook your scanner up, have someone ride with you and note what changes in the parameters when it looses power and smokes. Particularly the timing.
If it's an S code engine, check to make sure the round metal gasket is installed under the intake for the EGR porting also.
Giving the turbo and intake a good looking over is a good idea.
The bucking is an odd component though. especially a 1000 rpm drop, that's big. Still thinking about that one...I suppose it could be the beginnings of a dying PMD brought on after you run it hard for a bit (ie: highway speeds) and it finally gets warmed up....they've caused weirder things.
probably worth your while to check the vac system again. The solenoid usually with throw a code if it's bad.
Do you have a boost gauge installed? If so, you can try wiring the wastegate shut and give it a run to see if that clears you symptoms. Don't let your boost go much higher than 10-12 though. If the black smoke clears up then it's wastegate system related.
Perhaps hook your scanner up, have someone ride with you and note what changes in the parameters when it looses power and smokes. Particularly the timing.
If it's an S code engine, check to make sure the round metal gasket is installed under the intake for the EGR porting also.
Giving the turbo and intake a good looking over is a good idea.
The bucking is an odd component though. especially a 1000 rpm drop, that's big. Still thinking about that one...I suppose it could be the beginnings of a dying PMD brought on after you run it hard for a bit (ie: highway speeds) and it finally gets warmed up....they've caused weirder things.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
x2 try a diff PMD
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
I got a reman last Summer which after about 3K miles gave similar bucking, but to a lesser extent; also, I could not do a RPM test as any throttle setting past ~1000 would result in a run-away to redline. Mechanic found codes, even though I did not get a CEL, which traced to the reman'd IP. Upgraded to a new IP and life is good again.
As mentioned, try a PMD if that is convenient and see if you can also find somebody with a computer to more thoroughly scan for codes.
Tried different pmd and no change I ran it this morning and it is worse than ever bucking and kicking at anything over about 25 mph.......... I am going to do some scanning today and see what I come up with....... Thanks everyone I will keep you up to date.