I want to use a ford solenoid.

[nealpellecchia]

I want to send the heavy battery + wire right to the M terminal on the existing solenoid if I can fit the line on to the M terminal safely. The existing solenoid works the Bendix just fine, The contacts are just about gone so I will give that job to the ford solenoid. Every other wiring diagram that I have seen using the ford solenoid sens the + to the B terminal with a little wire to jolt the S terminal. They are still using the existing contacts. Can anyone tell me why this won't work or is dangerous? Also the starter key when engaged will activate both solenoids at once like they do but mine could be a little delayed because of the distance from the motor of the + circuit.

 

[bison]

Sure it may work for a while but why fart around with these "Red and Green" mechanics.
Do yourself a favor and either rebuild the one you have or get a new solenoid for that starter.

Upon reading your post a second time it appears your idea wont work cause the starter will start spinning at the same time the start gear is trying to engage the ring gear.
RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR..
.

 

[just a number]

the solenoids are easy thing to change. just drop the starter and solenoid is held on by 2 bolts. might need a quarter turn to disengage the 'tab' and install is just the reverse. last on cost me a whole $20.

 

[Will L.]

Ford starters are designed so that when the electric motor spins the gear is automatically moved forward to engage the ring gear of the flywheel while spinning. Once the engine starts and you remove power from the starter the electric motor stops spinning and the gear will retract by itself.

Gm starters the solenoid moves an arm which pulls the gear forward into the ring gear of the flywheel. Even if the electric motor of the gm starter is bead, the gear will engage from a working solenoid. the solenoid also transmits power to the electric motor of the starter at the same time causing the rotation of the gear.

I have made a copper jumper that goes from the power in to the start post on gm starters and fed the starter off a ford style solenoid in order to avoid the tight wiring issue down below on some older hot rods I had. It also helped with the "hot solenoid" problem a little bit. However, if the GM solenoid is bad, the ford solenoid will not help anything. It is really just one more part to go wrong. If you are going to do it for ease of starter replacement in not fighting the second wire hitting exhaust or something, don't waste your time on an actual ford solenoid. Get a continuous duty 750-1,000 amp inrush rated one from a semi truck dealer. Should be around $100-$125.

I tried other options, IF you do it save $ and buy the good one the first time. My only question would be why bother? I kill starters about one a year from mud and water fording and I haven't bothered with it on the 6.5. The starters on these are way easier than the old Gm ones in the hot rods were.

 

[nealpellecchia]

the solenoids are easy thing to change. just drop the starter and solenoid is held on by 2 bolts. might need a quarter turn to disengage the 'tab' and install is just the reverse. last on cost me a whole $20.

did that twice. their all junk. Chinese rebuild. traced it by the numbers. paid 150.00 and 85.00 for him to put it in. he gave me one more supposedly new. he gave me a new end cap pitted, I had to point that out, again supposedly new. another guy put a new contact washer in. the original looked half the thickness of the replacement. The only good thing is that it warmed me up to a lot of stuff myself. at best they lasted 4 mos. after not lasting one year. rebuild lasted 4 days. guy on phone from the company that has that nice you tube video refused to do anything. original guy doesn't want to take the loss either he told me.

 

[Will L.]

did that twice. their all junk. Chinese rebuild. traced it by the numbers. paid 150.00 and 85.00 for him to put it in. he gave me one more supposedly new. he gave me a new end cap pitted, I had to point that out, again supposedly new. another guy put a new contact washer in. the original looked half the thickness of the replacement. The only good thing is that it warmed me up to a lot of stuff myself. at best they lasted 4 mos. after not lasting one year. rebuild lasted 4 days. guy on phone from the company that has that nice you tube video refused to do anything. original guy doesn't want to take the loss either he told me.

Have you tried Powermaster?

 

[nealpellecchia]

where is a good one for 20.00?

 

[nealpellecchia]

Have you tried Powermaster?

who is that? a brand name?

 

[Will L.]

who is that? a brand name?

yes, about $30 from summit racing. a little more $ but quality and service. Give them a call 1 800 230 3030.

Does Leroy sell them yet anyone? Leroy is better than summit.

 

[ak diesel driver]

You won't find a good one for $20. I got mine from a rebuilder that cost me $60 and was made in mexico. Its on my plow truck and so far so good. Also FYI you can't change the copper washer and the solenoid is staked shut.

Sent from my Studio 5.0s using Tapatalk

 

[floyd400]

The Powermaster starter kicks ass :thumbsup:
I think I scared a bunch of people starting my truck in a crowded parking lot once, it spins extremely fast!

 

[vstech]

I want to send the heavy battery + wire right to the M terminal on the existing solenoid if I can fit the line on to the M terminal safely. The existing solenoid works the Bendix just fine, The contacts are just about gone so I will give that job to the ford solenoid. Every other wiring diagram that I have seen using the ford solenoid sens the + to the B terminal with a little wire to jolt the S terminal. They are still using the existing contacts. Can anyone tell me why this won't work or is dangerous? Also the starter key when engaged will activate both solenoids at once like they do but mine could be a little delayed because of the distance from the motor of the + circuit.

for this to work on a GM starter, you'd need to disconnect the lug feeding the motor, have the ignition power the gm solenoid, then have the gm solenoid power the ford solenoid to power the gm motor...

BIG honing wires needed to feed this...

much easier to just fix the GM solenoid...