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I noticed a vacuum line was broke

B

bdemutis

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I noticed a vacuum line was broke and I found this. I don't have a boost gauge on the truck I bought the truck like this I had my brother spool the truck up while I watched I didn't see the waste gate move can some one tell me what the specs are to build my own. I don't want to drill manifold to put a boost gauge in and I don't have money to spend on the leroy bolt at the moment but I also would like my waste gate to work.
Edit: I can hear the turbo spool out of the exhaust.
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basically someone trashed the OEM vacuum canister that activates the wastegate and made a homemade turbomaster. the spring should be setup to be compressed not be under tension.
 
ak diesel driver said:
basically someone trashed the OEM vacuum canister that activates the wastegate and made a homemade turbomaster. the spring should be setup to be compressed not be under tension.
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Well does any one have a thread how to make one perfectly without a boost gauge or does any one have the specs of the one they made.
 
You have to have a gauge to adjust one to "perfect". I suck on kumputerz, so I don't know how to find the link, but there is homemade turbo master posts here.
If you build one the correct way (like AK said, that one is wrong) you can adjust it till it feels better and when smoke on acceleration is a good reference, but go easy or you get to write a thread titled "why a boost gauge is cheaper than head gaskets".

You could do the free tool rental from pepboys/ oriellys/ etc. and get the fuel pressure tester for carbureted engines that measures up to 30 psi and use it. Just take out the bolt where you will install Leroy's boost bolt and jury rig the hose on there to test with to set it (anywhere downstream of the turbo really). Duct tape is your friend. After next paycheck buy the gauge and boost bolt.
 
Will L. said:
You have to have a gauge to adjust one to "perfect". I suck on kumputerz, so I don't know how to find the link, but there is homemade turbo master posts here.
If you build one the correct way (like AK said, that one is wrong) you can adjust it till it feels better and when smoke on acceleration is a good reference, but go easy or you get to write a thread titled "why a boost gauge is cheaper than head gaskets".

You could do the free tool rental from pepboys/ oriellys/ etc. and get the fuel pressure tester for carbureted engines that measures up to 30 psi and use it. Just take out the bolt where you will install Leroy's boost bolt and jury rig the hose on there to test with to set it (anywhere downstream of the turbo really). Duct tape is your friend. After next paycheck buy the gauge and boost bolt.
Click to expand...
Well is thete a way I can make a ghetto boost bolt for now I have cheap gauges were I work
 
Easiest way is to drill and tap a hole in the upper intake then put in a barb fitting which you could replace with a plug when your done adjusting.
 
Instead of tapping my upper intake, I teed off the hole that houses the sensor that sticks out of the upper intake. You can see it really well at the end of this video. That'll save you from having to tap it. I got all the parts from Lowes.
 
Dunedain15 said:
Instead of tapping my upper intake, I teed off the hole that houses the sensor that sticks out of the upper intake. You can see it really well at the end of this video. That'll save you from having to tap it. I got all the parts from Lowes.
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Do you have write up on it or the parts used to do it? Also wont the sensor read inaccurate since it's not directly in the intake anymore?
 
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You could just get a new vac can for the wastegate and put it back to stock. then you don't need or care about a boost gauge. Clear codes to the computer and hook the vac line back up. Likely the PO wanted more power and just stuck the WG closed. Possible the solenoid or vac pump also went bad.

Without a boost gauge you can overspeed the turbo. When this happens it heats the air more than compressing it. The the ECM sees boost out of range and/or IAT out of range and defuels the engine to protect it. AKA cuts power. So with a stock tune you want the vac can on the turbo. They do make a $110 turbomaster that can be tuned to work with the stock program.

Next "cheap" step is just getting a tune that can get more power and open up the WG for MPG depending on your right foot. There are several people who make OBDI tunes for the 1995.
 
WarWagon said:
You could just get a new vac can for the wastegate and put it back to stock. then you don't need or care about a boost gauge. Clear codes to the computer and hook the vac line back up. Likely the PO wanted more power and just stuck the WG closed. Possible the solenoid or vac pump also went bad.

Without a boost gauge you can overspeed the turbo. When this happens it heats the air more than compressing it. The the ECM sees boost out of range and/or IAT out of range and defuels the engine to protect it. AKA cuts power. So with a stock tune you want the vac can on the turbo. They do make a $110 turbomaster that can be tuned to work with the stock program.

Next "cheap" step is just getting a tune that can get more power and open up the WG for MPG depending on your right foot. There are several people who make OBDI tunes for the 1995.
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Yea I'm just going to put a boost Guage on and the cheap mod.
 
factory was around 7psi most run 10 with stock setup anymore than that and your looking at a defuel. IIRC even 10 for an extended period will cause a defuel
 
bdemutis said:
Do you have write up on it or the parts used to do it? Also wont the sensor read inaccurate since it's not directly in the intake anymore?
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I don't know what parts I used. I took the sensor and the 1/8" barb into Lowes with me so I made sure to get all the right sizes. I asked Bill Heath about using that hole, and he said there wouldn't be any ill effects. AFAIK, it's an air pressure sensor, so, as long as it's sealed up, it'll report properly.
 
the only guage-less solutions are the factory made turbo master sold by heath, and the OEM vaccum system.

For maximum fuel economy without going with an aftermarket big housing turbo, I personally prefer and use the OEM vaccum system.
 
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