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I am at a loss

D

deepdiver

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Alright guys need help..1998 chevy 1 ton 6.5 turbo.Started great then after it warmed up it would reving out of control then would stall and die all kinds of weird fuel problems so bought a used pdm and a remote mount kit off ebay i know shame on me but hey i was broke heading to sturgis.So i put it in ran great all the way home from my shop about 20 miles away then went to go to work the next morn started great then made it about 1 mile from the house and it just died uuplugged the pmd a few times and made it back home only to die on me like three times so i started the process of troubleshooting found i had no resistor so bought a # 9 and put in..drove it to work and home just fine..Jumped on the bike and went to sturgis for a long wknd.When we got back i started it and drove to town about 30 miles started and drove fine..Then went to go to work and same shit made it about 1 mile and it died nothing i seemed to do worked so i walked home got the harley and headed to work stopped buy the truck to get my lunch and thought i would try it.Damn thing started right up so i drove it home but right when i pulled in the drivway it died again....went to work,...got home and thing started right up and i dove it around for about 20 min.My first thought i got screwed on the pmd..does this sound like pmd problem.:mad2::mad2:
 
I'm thinking 1 or more grounds could be the issue after replacing the PMD that probably fixed your revving problem.
 
btfarm said:
I'm thinking 1 or more grounds could be the issue after replacing the PMD that probably fixed your revving problem.
Click to expand...

Certainly sounds like a PMD. You can try taking it off the heatsink, pop the covers off in the middle of the metal heatsink part, and tighten the transistor nuts a little bit. Sometimes they get loose and tightening them will work for a while longer.

Otherwise you may have an intermittent ground wire for the PCM, as stated already.

Or an intermittent Fuel Shutoff Solenoid (FSO) on the IP. You can spin that off, and if its the kind with a hex head it should have a snap ring that hold the plunger in place. Remove snap ring and plunger falls out. Put back on IP with no plunger and see if problem persists. You can reinstall the plunger if you want, but its not needed, since the PMD and PCM both need ignition power to run the IP. Two of mine have failed and playing with the PMD always got it to start back up temporarily, maybe because they share a power source?
 
Best thing is to try a known to be good PMD. If you can come up with the scratch or find somebody close that can let you borrow one.

The used PMD's off Ebay don't have what you'd call a great reputation
 
You need to add your signature with your truck details so we know what you have and what mods you have done so we can better help you with your problem. That being said you really need a new PMD so you know your good from there and if the problem persists you look elsewhere.
 
jrsavoie said:
Best thing is to try a known to be good PMD. If you can come up with the scratch or find somebody close that can let you borrow one.

The used PMD's off Ebay don't have what you'd call a great reputation
Click to expand...

Especialy if it came from Edam in Canada.
 
I would also check the fuel system for air leaks. Ive seen the over reving problem caused by air pockets in the fuel lines. Just my .02

-Nick
 
No hot start and stalling are common problems with failed used rested good PMD's.

The only test for a PMD used or new is use it and it must work properly at all times.

It is not uncommon to get a bad used PMD-send it back for warranty and expect to send that one back as well,my experience is it usually takes 3 tries to get a working PMD when you buy that way.
By the time you pay return shipping twice and the initial cost of the first 1 you would have been better off to buy new from the start.
 
You should be monitoring fuel pressure. A kinked hose or restriction in the fuel system from a plugged tank sock, filter, etc can stall the engine with no restart. Air as mentioned is the #1 thing to check for in the GM manual. A clear return line on the IP is all you need to check for air.

Grounds like the one by the trans dipstick on the engine are critical.

The Engine running away can be from a PMD failure. The stalling hot can be from a PMD failure. PMD's are like brake pads - the design and use wears them out. So consider a used PMD like used brake pads. A PMD failure is expensive enough to put a 6.5 in the junkyard. And suppose some used PMD's come from that. Missing a resistor had 'swapped a bad PMD out' written all over it.
 
I had a similar problem and it ended up being a bad connection between the ip harness and the pmd cable extension. It was in the actual connector. The way I finally found it was while it was running i wiggled the wire from end to end, and finally found the weak link. Easy fix, or course.
 
bought two pmd kits from PMDCABLE.com, cheap, easy and works. Checking all the grounds will solve and isolate a plethora of problems. I can't say enough on how great this site is for technical info and advice. I must of saved hundreds of dollars so far in repairs.
 
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