Randy_the_Hack
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Hi guys...
I've had dozens of inquiries (both here and in another forum) regarding how to reroute your PCV. The following instructions are how I rerouted mine on my LLY. Other trucks, as I understand it, are nearly identical, though the pics might look a little different.
This is one of the easiest mods you can do to your truck. Here's what it takes:
Parts:
Replace the resonator and you’re done. BTW, if you’ve not already done so, get a 2” plumber’s test plug, and block off the resonator. You can do this and still replace the resonator over it so it looks like stock.
That's it. My thanks to LarryJewel and SweetDiesel for a couple of pics I didn't have; the rest are mine.
Good luck!
I've had dozens of inquiries (both here and in another forum) regarding how to reroute your PCV. The following instructions are how I rerouted mine on my LLY. Other trucks, as I understand it, are nearly identical, though the pics might look a little different.
This is one of the easiest mods you can do to your truck. Here's what it takes:
Parts:
- 1 1” barstool leg cap
- 3 5/8” pushon king nipples or barbed nipples
- 1 5/8” T connector
- 3 5/8” hose clamps
- 1 6-7’ 5/8” heater hose
- 2-4 zip ties
- Teflon tape
- Regular screwdriver
- Pliers
- Box knife
- Remove the resonator (the 6.6L plastic thing) – one hose clamp to loosen, then remove it and set it aside.
- With the pliers, grab hold of the clamp on the large hose leading to the turbo, then lift the hose off the turbo inlet.
- With the box knife, cut the two PCV hoses that lead to the large hose you just pulled off of the turbo inlet. Be sure to cut the PCV hoses as close to the fittings as possible. Once you have it free, throw the fitting you’ve just cut and removed as far as you can.
- Wind some Teflon tape onto the threads of the barbs and mount into the T connector. Tighten to suit yourself. Take the barstool leg cap and shove it onto the turbo inlet. Since there’s a vacuum, there’s no need to clamp it in place; it’ll stay there.
- Slide two of the clamps onto the PCV hoses, and then shove the two barbs onto the PCV hoses. Finally tighten down the hose clamps. Take the third hose clamp and slip over one end of the new heater hose. Shove it onto the third barb of the T connector. Tighten the hose clamp. Here’s where I oriented my T assembly upright, so that any actual oil would remain in the hoses and hopefully wind back up in the engine rather than down the heater hose. Everyone does this different, but I don’t think it matters much.
- Routing the hose is up to you, but I ran it over to the back side of the driver side wheel well and then down along the frame. Make sure that you cut the end of the heater hose at an angle so it won’t become clogged with mud or ice (or anything else).
- Run the hose along your frame, using the zip ties to hold it in place against the wiring harness.
Replace the resonator and you’re done. BTW, if you’ve not already done so, get a 2” plumber’s test plug, and block off the resonator. You can do this and still replace the resonator over it so it looks like stock.
That's it. My thanks to LarryJewel and SweetDiesel for a couple of pics I didn't have; the rest are mine.
Good luck!
