How to remove the right half shaft 95 Tahoe?

[jrsavoie]

Right Front axle removal 95 Tahoe
I'm getting ready to pull my right front axle to install new ball joints.
Do I need to remove it completely? Or just enough to get to the Ball joints?
The book is a little lacking on removing the axle.
It says to disconnect the tie rod and the stabilizer. Are these steps necessary?
Different book says to take the bottom of the shock loose. No problem there.
How does the axel fit up to the front pig?
Do you have to take it towards the center of the vehicle to remove it?
Any help or pics would be appreciated.
Doesn't seem all that hard but the instructions and pics are lacking a little,
Thanks

I've got 3 books out and still haven't figured it out.
I have the tie rod lose and the nut off the stabilizer link bolt. It's not hitting there.
I was going to remove the bearing assembly but the bolts are froze. Now I'm out of oxygen for my little torch. The big torch is mounted in a truck and and I either have to string out a couple of hundred foot of torch lead or move stuff and move the truck

Does the bearing assembly have to be out to remove the half shaft? It didn't say anything about that in any of the books.

What is the part called that the ball joints attach to? Steering knuckle?
It is possible that I may need that part anyway. The top ball joint was very sloppy but did not come loose when I loosened the castle nut. So I would imagine That part of unknown name - Steering knuckle? - is good.
Where is the best place to buy the part if I end up needing it?
I will definately need new bolts for the bearing assembly. "No never-seezing bastards got me on this one."

 

[bk95td]

The bearing and steering knuckle can come out in one piece.support the frame with jack stands. Take the big nut off the axle. Take the tie rod end and balljoints loose while supporting the lower a-arm with a jack.You will probbly need to whack the side of the knuckle with a hammer, while prying, to get the tapered ball joints and tie rod end to come loose. The shock obsorber may need to come off to be able to swing the half shaft out of the way to get at the ball joint. The axle shaft doesn't have to come out.

 

[WarWagon]

You are disconnecting things so the lower control arm can go down far enough to release spring tension and be totally removed. Otherwise things break from the spring tension that are not disconnected...

No the half shaft does not have to be removed, but, preference on getting it out of the way is yours to decide.

(3/4 ton 93 pickup went like this: ) It comes off by removing the bolts to the flange then tap it on the side while rotating with penetrating oil everywhere. (Strike point is wheel side of the flange on the big heavy metal part, not the axle shaft itself. To be clear: Do not strike the differential side of things.) It will come off but has to move toward the wheel a bit to do so. It is held by a wheel/rim type flange after the bolts are off at the flange junction - this is the reason you have to tap it with bolts out. Move it to the front and down till it clears the flange and then it will have enough room to come out of the 'hub', wheel side.

 

[jrsavoie]

The bearing and steering knuckle can come out in one piece.support the frame with jack stands. Take the big nut off the axle. Take the tie rod end and balljoints loose while supporting the lower a-arm with a jack.You will probbly need to whack the side of the knuckle with a hammer, while prying, to get the tapered ball joints and tie rod end to come loose. The shock obsorber may need to come off to be able to swing the half shaft out of the way to get at the ball joint. The axle shaft doesn't have to come out.

How do you get to the ball joints to take them loose with the half shaft in the way?

You are disconnecting things so the lower control arm can go down far enough to release spring tension and be totally removed. Otherwise things break from the spring tension that are not disconnected...

No the half shaft does not have to be removed, but, preference on getting it out of the way is yours to decide.

(3/4 ton 93 pickup went like this: ) It comes off by removing the bolts to the flange then tap it on the side while rotating with penetrating oil everywhere. (Strike point is wheel side of the flange on the big heavy metal part, not the axle shaft itself. To be clear: Do not strike the differential side of things.) It will come off but has to move toward the wheel a bit to do so. It is held by a wheel/rim type flange after the bolts are off at the flange junction - this is the reason you have to tap it with bolts out. Move it to the front and down till it clears the flange and then it will have enough room to come out of the 'hub', wheel side.

I have the half shaft all loose. Moved it over and down but still lack about 1/2" for sliding it out when it becomes bound up.
I can't figure out how to get the ball joints loose with it in the way.
I really don't want to take the control arms loose. I'm guessing that if ZI do get the bearing assembly bolts out that the bearing assembly will still be froze in the steering knuckle like the 96 Suburban was. Whoever worked on this last used no anti-seez lubricant.

Where is the best place to buy a new steering knuckle? Much more frustration and I'm going to need one if I don't already.

 

[bk95td]

When you take the nut off the upper ball joint you need to pry the a-arm up to get the ball joint out of the knuckle. Then take the lower loose . You should be able to clear the lower ball joint stud by tipping the top of the knuckle out. Axle does not need to be disconnected from the differential. I never needed to remove the bearing hub on both 6 lug trucks i've had.

 

[jrsavoie]

Any tips on getting the ball joint to pop loose? I had pressure on it with a 3 foot bar and whacked it but nothing.

 

[bk95td]

Bigger hammer?

 

[ak diesel driver]

x2

 

[bk95td]

Since you are replacing the ball joints anyhow you could use a "pickle fork" to seperate the joints from the knuckle. The fork will wreck the joint and the rubber boot. I'll get a pic in a bit.

 

[jrsavoie]

yep the fork for my air hammer is missing. I just got off the phone with my wife about picking me up a new one.
Maybe I could notch out the chissel for my 20 lb air hammer. That'd knock something loose.

Thanks

 

[bk95td]

Ball joint and tie rod seperators

These are the 2 that I have. The smaller one is for tie rods. You can also get them that fit in a air hammer. They are about $8 each in summit racing's catalog.AS said previous, They will damage the joint and boot

 

[jrsavoie]

Got the top Ball joint loose. Pulled the half shaft. It was already loose. I still don't see how to get the bottom ball joint out with the half shaft in the way.
A buddy of mine stopped by and he wackeed while I pur my svelt 280 on the crow bar.
We tried to figure out how to remove the axle per the books instructions but we struck out once again. It's all down hill from here.

 

[jrsavoie]

Now I'm to the Bottom ball joint. The pressed in style. I couldn't be so lucky as to have the bolt on style.
do you have any advice on pressing out the lower?

My cheap C clamp doesn't seem to be impressing it.

Do they make a frame to put my porta power in or something else to press the old ball joint out with? Maybe even just a bigger/heavier duty C press kit? I could spend a day making a jig for my portapower but there's got to be a better way.
I don't think my cheap joint press would hold up to the porta-power. I'd hate to get hit by shrappnel when it cuts loose.

 

[Jess_sr]

Support the lower A arm as close as possible to the joint with a jack stand.
Then smack the joint down and out with BFH!

I only use the press to put it in and even thats not really necessary.