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How To Remove Grill.

Matt Bachand

Matt Bachand

Depends on the 6.5
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Location
Worcester, MA
It would be great if someone could do a quick walkthrough of how to remove the grille. My window of opportunity to clean my radiator and do the DIY Fan Clutch mod is very short Sunday morning. I know there are some hidden screws and don't have time to fart around. Winters coming, and coming fast.

Ironic I prepare my cooling system going into the winter.

http://www.dieseltowingresource.com/showthread.php?t=12265&highlight=DIY+Fan+clutch

Thats the DIY Fan clutch mod thread for those who are in need.

Couldn't find anything in about grille removal.

As always. Thank you.
 
which grille although really not much different. the W/T or the other one ?
It's beena little while but all the screws on top under the hood. Think there is one in the middle. You have to remove the T/S and there are two snaps . ONe on each side you have to use a small screw driver to release them. Think there is a screw center bottom and it pulls off top first IIRC. Then you can at that point see how the Valance comes off. You will need to remove that as well.
 
No torx, all screws and bolts...

Remove the two parking lights / turn signals and side marker lights, lower screws are accessed from behind, some on top and 3 tabs that spring on the bottom.

Once you get the lights off, it's fairly straight forward
 
Mine was retained by 6 or 7 mm hex head screws go carefully if it doesn't come free easily, stop, there are a couple of screws that are hard to see in center of grille, clips at bottom are easiest accessed thru the removed park/turn signal assembly, if I get time tomorrow I'll try to grab some pics.
 
mine are 7mm, torex to remove the turn signal lenses on my 97, screws on the 94
 
Here is a pic I doctored up quick, sorry I don't have anything better, but I don't own anything with this style grill!

NewPicture4.jpg


There are 4 T-20 screws that hold each of the parking lights, then the 7 7mm screws (red arrows), then you can access the clips the hold the grill to the filler panel (green arrows).
They depress with a screwdriver and pull out they are a PITA, but if you are careful they shouldn't be too big of a problem.

TIP: If you spend alot of time crawling into the engine bay of your truck, install washers on the top two recessed center screws, as they tend to crack out after lost of knealing on top the grill.
 
Be careful, afte you take out all upper screws (red arrows) and disengange the 2 clips at the turn signals - proceed carefully, they can be brittle- do as say buddy, from above, use a thin long bar to push the retainer and disengage the clip in the center (at the level of the bowtie)
 
buddy said:
To unclip the center clip I stuck a bar down from the top after I had all the screws off and could pull it away from the truck.
Click to expand...

FWIW - Once the screws and turnsignals are removed, I disengage the clips behind the T/S. For the center, allow the grill to come forward about 4 to 6 inches, and then the center clip is easier to get at with the above mentioned bar, long screw driver or long ratchet extention. Whatever is enough to get the job done and small enough to push the tab down through the gill's attachment point. Square hole - don't know what its called.
 
You guys are great - I wish you were around the first time I pulled my grille... took about 3 hours for me to find all the little buggers...
 
Heres a pic, you can see three clips one behind Turnsignals and the one in the center you have to reach down with a stick or bar or something
Grille-Off-small.jpg

Then I serisouly used caulk tubes with hose clamps to seal up the hoses or nipples on the radiator in order to put hot cleaning solution in and then use air compressor to blow it through one of the small nipple out the small drain. 20psi should be more than enough, radiator caps usually pop at 18psi or so.
Radiator-Out-small.jpg
 
JiFaire said:
You guys are great - I wish you were around the first time I pulled my grille... took about 3 hours for me to find all the little buggers...
Click to expand...

Absolutely you guys are great.

This is going to save me a ton of time and no broken parts.

My first time having this off, so as always I'm going prepared with a few cans of Rustoleum.

I have more bullshit too, I have 2 strobes that are attached to my grille, and my plow connectors. I may get rained out of this event. Then again. I'm not sure if I have a job for tomorrow or not. So I may do this tomorrow. Which would be better, as I'd have all day Friday do do things the way I want.
 
The green arrows are little plastic tabs that clip into the vallance you need to depress the tab and the grill slides out.

The screws are on top and front. as soon as the screw are all loose the only thing holding the grill is the plastic clips.

Be careful as the plastic gets brittle over time.

Missy
 
Missy Good Wench said:
Be careful as the plastic gets brittle over time. Missy
Click to expand...

:iagree:

Thanks Missy, I thought I had added that cautionary note, realized I didn't and was going to correct the oversight. Glad someone did before you started Matt.

Just be careful bringing it forward and don't force it. You'll know when "when" is well before you get to "AH S$%^&!

Great Photos Buddy. I honest to goodness didn't know what the connector in the center of my grill was for:confused:... Learn something new every day.
 
Want to say Thanks to all. Had the thing off in under 10 minutes. Thats including removing the plow attachments, and strobes. Saved me alot of time.
 
I had a leaping deer help me remove most of mine....well at least the majority of the mounting tabs anyways. Really makes removal/installation a breeze. Might want to think about that next time :D
 
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