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How much is a sick 94 K2500HD 6.5 5spd 4wd ECLB 142K worth?

GM Guy

GM Guy

Manual Trans. 2WD Enthusiast
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NW Kansas and SC Idaho
Hey guys,

I was hoping to get an opinion on value of A 1994 ECLB K2500HD 6.5L 5spd 4wd.

It has 142K miles, and is dark blue, with silver lower tone paint it has a matching topper, also in decent condition. Its exterior is nice, no rust or dents. The interior is fair, mainly needs stripped and cleaned, not bad, but a stain here and there, and your usual carpet fuzzy grunge. sunflower seeds everywhere! has camo seat covers up front (didnt look at actual, but they are cloth, as I saw from side) and it is dual buckets with a center console that is a little beat up, otherwise rest is in decent shape. Has a hurst handle for the NV4500. he did some slop ass wiring for some crappy fog lamps, but it looks reversible. The PMD is relocated to the bumper, but is not on a heatsink, and is completely open to the atmosphere. the original is still pump mounted.

oh, and it has the acquired taste of a lund sunshade.

Story time:
Guy from wichita got a job in Colorado somewhere, and so he slapped on 4 new Goodyear Wrangler MTR 265/75R16E (95 percent sure that is exactly what is on there) on his ol 6.5L and loaded up and headed out. well, it only made it to the edge of KS, right up here in NWKS on I70. (rougly 300 miles on new tires!) supposedly, as story goes, the turbo oil seal went, inducing hot engine oil in a hot engine (I guess good enough to make the lube oil a fuel???) and she took off, and I guess she then shut down and wouldnt re-fire. So the guy sells it to the local towing guy and calls a buddy so he can finish the trip.

Personally, doesnt this sound more PMD or throttle pedal related? there is oil around the intake, so maybe turbo leaks, but it doesnt look worse than the 96 of dads with lots of blowby.

Anyways, now she isnt hitting on one hole, and smokes grayish white.
you can pull the filler cap and there is very little blowby, without much variation that would indicate heavy blowby from one substantially bad hole. So IMHO this would rule out major bottom end trauma, so me thinks that the high rpm trip may have either took a chunk out of a valve, burnt a valve, or collapsed a lifter. someone though valvetrain, like maybe the nylon rocker buttons???

anyways, the towing guy supposedly needs 1500 bucks out of it, and it does have a pair of new wal-mart everstart maxx side terminals. I am wondering if it worth a shot, or no?
 
If you are lucky and the motor isn't scrap then it would be a good deal. Without some testing (comp) I would count on engine work.

I bought the 97 in my sig for $900, I wanted the tires and rims and a few other parts.
 
With the pmd not on a heatsink ,i would suspect that first. But you don't know that for shure,so count on a engine. $12-1500 isn't out of line with the brand new tires if the body is decent.
 
so could a bad PMD or a comprimised PMD wiring harness cause the missing on one hole?

I am hoping a PMD is a possibility, but valvetrain issues sound more like it.

also, it took ether to start, ( i know, but it was misted lightly, and it popped right off.) the glows were not working, and we thought we were shorting across terminals to bypass the Glow Plug Controller, but it didnt seem to do much. I think that we never activated the glows, considering how it popped off so easy on ether.
 
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With gmtdscan tech software or a tech1 or tech 2 you can shut off cylinders to find the bad one. Then compression test that cylinder.
Pmd is usally run or not run. I haven't expreanced a miss caused by failing pmd.
 
So do you think that revving up and dying is an overheated failing PMD? they think it was turbo oil causing the runaway, but I am thinking that that is just a unrelated coincidence. Do you think the adventure into high RPMs could have floated the valves and taken a chunk out, burnt it, or is a collapsed lifter, or missing nylon rocker button also a possibility?

It seems to be still getting fuel to the dead hole, judging by the white/ gray smoke that never cleared up.

I know i need to get a scanning software, but for now, cant I just let it idle for a while and then use an infrared thermometer to see which hole is cold? then, pull the valvecover on the corresponding head, and check for valvetrain damage, and if all is well there, then head pulling is the only choice? If that would all work, I hope it is the right head, as it has an existing external coolant leak at the headgasket.
 
Agree with 1995 Yukon.

as for the I/R temp thing, IDK how well that would work on cast iron manifolds. CI transfers heat rather well. I havent done this on manifolds used to do it on gasser headers though.

Have you verified it has good diesel in it and not gasoline mixed???
 
With a completely dead cylinder a IR thermometer should show a large difference in temps when pointed at the head/exhaust manifold. Throttle run-away is a failing pmd symtom. Broken parts inside the IP can cause runaway also.
 
$1500 for a good body... Well the price doesn't go much lower as most scrap yards will pay $1000 to buy a wrecked one. Cash in hand counted out in front of the seller $100-300 less may get you a deal.

Assume the entire engine including injectors, IP, etc. is scrap metal. A win is if you can save anything.

The "traction" tires although unbeatable snow, mud, and ice traction don't last very long. 25K towing... We were the only ones out of 10 cars not in the ditch towing through Payson's almost white out snow storm last winter...

Myself I would just buy it if i could stuff a surplus military 6.2 engine (and possible turbo) in it for around it's blue book value. Then I would pull the valve covers, glows, and send the injectors off for a test. I would look for optional "Z" shaped pushrods. I suspect you have a bent valve or a chunk of glow plug stuck in a valve. But, and I never see good luck, you could just have a bad high mile injector. Chunks and turbo's don't mix so a mirror inspection of both turbo wheels could be in order.

The PMD without a heatsink is toast from overheating. I would not attempt to keep using it. I suggest this would have been the reason for selling the truck in the first place.

Edit:
Reading the external coolant leak at the head gasket...
Heads can lift from a collision of parts and instant gasket failure... Warped head? You could also have coolant in the combustion chamber keeping a hole 'dead' on startup - Including a bent rod. The TTY bolts may be done. Head bolthole block crack?

Looks more and more like the heads will need to be pulled.
 
If it was a '95, I'd be on that like white on rice. For a '94, there may be some surprises. I don't see why $1500 would be a bad price if you can make the repairs yourself as a project vehicle.
 
not yet. finances are not up to par, not getting much for hours lately (partially my fault, damn finals) and I really need to spend what little I have on tires and parts. I will see how after the holidays look, and maybe It will be mine! I havent even checked VIN yet, I really hope it has 3.42s. tow in 4th, throw er in the big hole for fuel economy! Sadly, as nice as it is, 4wd will make it the winter thrashing rig, but luckily I do take decent care of stuff, so it should last a long while.
 
Grab the RPO codes out the glovebox those will let you know gears.

I paid $1350 for a 96 rolling Chasis burb, my burbs body was crushed in Katrina before I bought it and it was "repaired at" functional but did not keep the weather out fully, the body had no engine no trans and after I parted out what I didn't use I made a little money on it.

If it needs a IP I have one that was a running take out I've been sitting on for a buddy who did a Cummins conversion, it's been setting around for a while, so I'd bet he'd be willing to let it go cheap.

I don't think you would be hurt on it unless it is rotten and rust belt issues are prevalent
 
6.5L Diesel's anonymous my foot! you enablers! :)

yeah, I figure you are right TD, I definitely cannot go wrong. now to balance the books and see where I stand, and either way, I need to go write down the VIN and go to comp nine to figure it out. IMHO, since I dont mind gearing down on a hill and creeping up, 3.42s wouldnt bother me, I would like the low RPMs very much.
 
got the 3:42 in my 98 C1500 burb, 96 body donor was K2500 with 3:73s sold that stuff.

With the 3:42 & ATT 24 mpg on highway is doable in a full size burb comfort is very nice our Villager mini van struggles to get that and you have mini van lack of comfort
 
I would say $1500 is good for a straight rust free body with good paint. A military engine can be had if needed and put the cost up to ~3,000 but that is still a good price for a good truck imo.
 
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