• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

How do I tee into the MAP for my boost gauge?

mgray

Member
Messages
132
Reaction score
19
Location
Vancouver, BC
First off, I'm not sure which one of these is the MAP, or what the other one does?? I think the black rectangle is the MAP, and is the other sensor for IAT?

Either way, they both have electrical connections(2 wires) coming out of them. So I'm not sure how I'm supposed to tee into the MAP for my boost gauge?

What am I missing?

Thanks
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1566 (Large).jpg
    IMG_1566 (Large).jpg
    50.1 KB · Views: 1
I have seen a few pictures of people with a t on the IAT on the right. Several folks have advised against it for reasins of taking the IAT out of the airstream and possibly changing its ground.

Disconnect the wires, unscrew. Screw in the t fitting, put IAT on top and boost fitting on side.

Another easy route is to buy a boost bolt.
 
You can't T into the "map" sensor. It goes into a cast boss below it with a synth rubber gasket. The other is the IAT gauge.

I just drilled and tapped my upper manifold.

You can also buy a "boost bolt" that replaces one of the upper manifold's bolts and gives you a port.
 
I used the "boost bolt". It is more expensive than drilling and tapping the upper intake, but it is much more handy to deal with.

Don
 
Ok thanks. Seeing as I have a 1/8 NPT tap from doing my pyro, I think I'll just drill and tap the upper intake. Any preferable spots? I don't want it on top in the middle as that's my usual roosting spot when wrenching around in those hard to reach areas.
 
Mine is here:

DSC03844-1.jpg
 
I was never in love with "boost bolts" Some of the cummins guys have used them and they snapped due to the weaking of the bolt from hollowing it. I would do as others said and drill and tap. Best way and it's very easy to do. Where TD drilled is where I drilled mine as well, just make sure you tap it straight( :( ) Mine looks like crap cause I was on a slight angle.
 
I was never in love with "boost bolts" Some of the cummins guys have used them and they snapped due to the weaking of the bolt from hollowing it. I would do as others said and drill and tap. Best way and it's very easy to do. Where TD drilled is where I drilled mine as well, just make sure you tap it straight( :( ) Mine looks like crap cause I was on a slight angle.

Just to reassure everyone. None of my TBB's has ever broke. They are very robust, and as far as drilling and taping being the "best" way I would argue that also.
 
I knew you were refering to the Cummins bolt. I just wanted to be sure to post after your post so in pepoles minds they would not think ALL TBB's were like you mention. Thats how rumors get started. Someone in six months or a year from now might only remember reading or hearing from someone that read that the TBB's are braking. I hope you can see my point.
I would still argue that a TBB is better than drilling/taping though :agreed:
 
Thought of buying a TBB, but seeing as I already had the tap, I went ahead and did it. Rear of drivers side. A caution tho for the sides(maybe back too) but it flares out a little at the bottom, and if you tap too low, the "head"(where wrench goes) of the fitting maybe hit the flare before the fitting can screw in all the way. I almost f'ed up, but luckily it went in far enough before the head started rubbing on the flare. Could still screw in further if it wasn't flared, but no leaks so I'm ok
 
JM 2 cents, the BB is made for people who don't have the tools, time or knowledge. At 30-35 ft/lbs torque they should never twist off. Leroy's look to be stainless so they should have a tensile strength double that of mild steel.
 
Back
Top