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how do I get to the AC evaporator for cleaning?

95 GMC, can I just pull the blower and vac out the area?
I remove the blower fan from the case vacuum what I can then make a strong solution of oregano tea then use a spray bottle to soak the evap with it bottom to top a few times. Mini vac is great for this job.
 
Buy the spray stuff made for this very thing and remove the blower, spray the stuff up high and really soak it down, use a air nozzle and blow the stuff as deep as ya can then spray again, let sit a while.... stick a wet/dry vac to the drain in the engine bay, use a water hose and lightly hose down the evap and the vac will keep the water going out.... works great no mess...
 
I drilled out the plastic welded things, removed entire half of case. I think there may be a bolt or two in firewall that access from behind coolant tank too? (been years).
I used nut & bolt to reattach drilled plastic.
 
Shop Vac with a heater hose attached to the suction hose then run it around in the case with the blower removed. I cut a "V" into the hose so it will get down into the bottom corners better to suck the fallen dirt out. I use a 3/8 hose to finish up in the bottom with the suction relief open to cool the vac motor.

I have been known to carefully use a nylon scrub brush on some dirt filled units. (Aka tooth brush.)

Shop Vac on the drain - I am gonna use that. Thanks! @sctrailrider Will speed it up from waiting on the pan to drain... :woot:

Regardless some have a condensation catcher that acts like a filter and clogs on the other side of the evaporator.

While you are at it: Add a ground to the motor and inspect the 2 wire connection about 12" from the blower motor for melting.
 
Shop Vac with a heater hose attached to the suction hose then run it around in the case with the blower removed. I cut a "V" into the hose so it will get down into the bottom corners better to suck the fallen dirt out. I use a 3/8 hose to finish up in the bottom with the suction relief open to cool the vac motor.

I have been known to carefully use a nylon scrub brush on some dirt filled units. (Aka tooth brush.)

Shop Vac on the drain - I am gonna use that. Thanks! @sctrailrider Will speed it up from waiting on the pan to drain... :woot:

Regardless some have a condensation catcher that acts like a filter and clogs on the other side of the evaporator.

While you are at it: Add a ground to the motor and inspect the 2 wire connection about 12" from the blower motor for melting.
Yep, that ground is important it had bit me hard as the wires melted into other harnesses too on my 99.
 
The 2 wire plug that melted was corrected sometime in 96/97, it was pretty much a 95 and down problem.
They somehow missed mine, replaced 3 blower speed switches in the control panel and yet no fuses ever popped or maybe something happened when they fitted the alarm system when the Burb was new which I stripped out too and I had to repair lot's of melted wires.
 
Blower motor in my 98 Burb gave up the ghost one speed at a time and a growling squeal on Hi before it quit a couple of weeks right before the tranny went out two falls ago. Still have to replace both! Have a new blower motor and ballast resistor pack for it, just dreading the installation (especially the resistor pack).
 
They somehow missed mine, replaced 3 blower speed switches in the control panel and yet no fuses ever popped or maybe something happened when they fitted the alarm system when the Burb was new which I stripped out too and I had to repair lot's of melted wires.
I'm not saying theres not other areas that can give issues, but right behind the glove box on 95's is a plug with a red and black wire in it. All the later ones I've seen had just a red wire in said plug.
 
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