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Hose clamps on injector returns?

I have fuel leaking from one of the injectors under the turbo, its the end one by the fire wall. The hose is on there but I can see fuel dripping from the injector. Ill see if the injector line is tight tomorrow.
 
Nice spot to have one leaking!,The endcap needs a clamp though in case that one leaks.
Inj could be leaking between the body halves as well.
 
I didnt change the injector, its always been in the truck since I bought it a few months ago. It has hard start like a fuel leak and I noticed fuel dripping under the truck while its running. I looked the best I can and it looks like its coming from that end injector but I cant see from where.
 
Hopefully, it is just the end cap or lines. But there are some cases where the injector itself leaking from the body where they screwed together.

Unfortunately, all you need to do now is to get the Turbo Shield off and see where it comes from. I am not sure if there is any other way.
 
Hopefully, it is just the end cap or lines. But there are some cases where the injector itself leaking from the body where they screwed together.

Unfortunately, all you need to do now is to get the Turbo Shield off and see where it comes from. I am not sure if there is any other way.

I have both heat sheilds off, thats the only way I could see down in there. The end cap has a screw stuck in it and I seen some bubble come out from around the screw but the drip it alot of fuel so I doubt its from the end cap.
 
What I like to do is, not use the POS end caps that come in the kit. Instead cut a piece of hose run a screw down it to cap it off. Make sure its a tight fitting screw and use that as your cap.
The little caps that come in the kits are junk IMO.
Anyway thats My 4 cents (Obama took the other 2)

EDIT: Well it looks like the last 2 post we were all typing at the same time. I still think the braided hose with a tight fitting screw is better than the caps.
Done it on several trucks and never had a problem.
 
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I think after lunch Ill get my my little mirror thing and fire it up and maybe I can see something with it.
 
If you jack it up, take the tire and inside wheel well out, you get a perfect view of that 8 injector. Only takes 20 minutes. Usually 10, but x2 cuz it cold.
 
Those nasty end caps are notorious for leaking when they get some time on them.

I have used (In a Pinch) a 1/2 inch or so long piece of a large nail with a head and press it into a chunk of hose. Install the other end on the nipple.

MGW

The rear caps are a toughy to get the clamps on too but I won't run caps without a clamp.

Also make sure the hoses dont rub on the shield or anything HOT

MGW
 
If you jack it up, take the tire and inside wheel well out, you get a perfect view of that 8 injector. Only takes 20 minutes. Usually 10, but x2 cuz it cold.

I think Ill try this, maybe this will make changing the injector return lines easier.:thumbsup:
 
Just remembered this also. I had the heat shield rub a hole in the small preformed heater hose. Make sure its not resting on the heat shield when your done. Zip tie it or????
 
I am not sure if you can put a heatshrink or a wire loom on the hose. That should protect it a little bit better from heat.

Heatshrink is more resilient to heat just make sure you have a big enough size and long enough. Don't need to shrink it because the engine heat will shrink it for you. The wire loom don't shrink and it gets brittle over time but it will probably outlast the injector anyway.
 
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