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Horn Blows, (does the driver?), Blows a fuse that is

Matt Bachand

Matt Bachand

Depends on the 6.5
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Worcester, MA
Yep, I fix my horn fuse, use the horn it works, use it for longer than a second or 2, blows the fuse (even a 30a).

Been like this for a few years, and i've learned to live without. When I get inspection i just put a fuse in there, and it works long enough for him to pass it.


Any common problem areas or ideas?
 
Horn is connected to a few different things......cigarette lighter and some rear lights IIRC...

Gotta check wiring on all circuits linked to that fuse....
 
chrisk1500 said:
Horn is connected to a few different things......cigarette lighter and some rear lights IIRC...

Gotta check wiring on all circuits linked to that fuse....
Click to expand...

Significant. I can use accessories on my cigarette lighter spots. but the Cig Lighter itself will blow a fuse also.
 
Schematic shows nothing on that circuit (20 Amp) but the horn relay and 2 horns.
Disconnect both horns and see if the fuse still blows.
If it does the wiring in either the slip ring or to/from the relay.
If it doesn't - Connect one horn & try again.

Have FUN!
 
RadioMan said:
Schematic shows nothing on that circuit (20 Amp) but the horn relay and 2 horns.
Disconnect both horns and see if the fuse still blows.
If it does the wiring in either the slip ring or to/from the relay.
If it doesn't - Connect one horn & try again.

Have FUN!
Click to expand...

Wow, you broke that down and made it seem easy. I am confident when I tackle this I will walk away with a working horn. Maybe even two :)

As always, thanks guys.
 
Atleast on my truck the under hood light is also on the horn circuit. As I noticed while pulling the fuse at 430am 5deg the other morning.
 
packratt said:
Atleast on my truck the under hood light is also on the horn circuit. As I noticed while pulling the fuse at 430am 5deg the other morning.
Click to expand...

Hey don't complain. I had to swap batteries this morning. Static temp was -34C, windchill below -40C (-40F). Man I love Alberta winters...:eek:
 
I'd be willing you had on a bunch more clothes than I did at the time. I just put on enough to avoid getting something frost bit to go out and stop the horn from blowing on its own.
 
My underhood light never worked either, but I always have a 12volt led droplight I use. I'd like to fix it though. When its a little warmer I will tackle these little things.
 
With grille off, I have one horn. I unplugged it (connector on horn was cracked) plastic part anyhow, contacts still look there... I figured I'd move it by the drivers side battery to have future access to it, and to limit airflow blockage up front (although it only took me 10 minutes to remove grille thanks to you guys). I havn't had a horn in 3 years, so i'm not concerned if its not as loud as if it was in front of the radiator.

BUT the green wire goes right, and the black goes left towards the Pass side directionals!!!! Do they share a ground?

I hit the horn a bunch with it unplugged, and its not blowing any fuses, but really want to relocate it............ Scared to cut wires though as Now it either shares a ground with something else (IT being the ground???) or the black wire goes to another ground that I just havn't found yet.

Going back in.
 
There are 2 horns on my 95, one is frint and center out front behind the grille and the other is hidden down underneath the drivers side battery and bolts to the radiator support. The ground for the horns runs over and hooks up on the passenger side by the battery. I would unhook the horns and put the smallest fuse you can find in the horn circuit and see if it blows the fuse. The realy shouldn't draw more than about an amp at the most, so it shouldn't blow the fuse by itself. If it does you have a chafed wire somewhere as the horn power goes from the 20A fuse directly to the horn relay. Then goes from there to a large round plug that runs to the radiator support harness for the lights and such. If it doesn't blow the small fuse I would first still check for wire chafes(espescially where the light harness feeds through the radiator support), if all checks out OK replace the 2 horns.
 
I've encountered horns blowing on their own plenty of times when the temperature gets seriously cold, way below zero. It's because of moisture, swelling as it freezes until it forces an electrical contact in the horn. Has nothing to do with bad grounds or shorted wire that OP was talking about.
 
Well I lengthened the wires to move the horn out of the way of my cool air flow and by DS battery where it can be accessed without removing grill.

Unhooked, and pressing horn with 30 amp fuse no blowing at all. Hooked up horn blew it, it sounded awful changing pitch and horrible. Then the fuse blew. I'm going to assume I need a new horn. I never found the second one. I'll remove DS battery this weekend to move my Battery tender/trickle charger under it out of heatwash of Pass battery. I'll see what I find.
 
I bought a new horn. Blows fuse instantly. Yet last a fair amount longer with a 30 amp fuse. 2-4 seconds.

I cleaned a ground I found behind DS battery. Same thing.

I installed a direct ground from the horn to that new clean terminal. Same Thing.

I never found a 2nd horn.

I would now like to just wire a fresh power wire to the horn as its under a foot away from the underhood fuse relay center.

Any ideas the easiest way to do this? What if I wire another wire with its own inline fuse from the live side of the fuse relay fuse to the horn which now has its own ground?

Anyone have a wire diagram of 97 horn circuit so I can try to fix this right?

As always, thanks.
 
Well, its bnlowing low amp fuses without the horn hooked up........ I got some odd LED fuses that have a led in them when they blow as thats all HF had for small fuses.

Anyhow, the fuse's LED will light up when i hit my horn after it blew, so it seems like I have a dead short somewhere after the fuse. I am going to try to wire up another power runner, as I don't feel like peeling apart all my facotry wire harness's for a horn.
 
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