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Help, anti-freeze leak...

cwq21

Member
Messages
727
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12
Location
Brusly, La.
I have an anti-freeze leak somewhere on the front lower half of the engine on the drivers’ side. I took off the skid plates and checked it when I got home from camping. It’s dripping (pretty good) from the drivers’ side above where the bottom hose connects to the water pump and not behind the pulley that I can see. There is a flange that connects to about a 1 1/4” tube running to the rear of the drivers’ side of the motor with a gasket right above where the bottom hose connects also and I can’t tell if it’s coming from there or not.

Could my water pump be leaking or is it something else?

Any ideas?
 
Sounds like the water pump. It has a weep hole in the area you described for the anti-freeze to come out of so that it won't push back into the engine.
 
I've been researching and I'd have to agree with you. At first I wasn't sure because I'm use to the water pump in the center of the front of the engine and after looking at the Duramax schematic, that exactly where it's coming from.

Oh well, guess what I'm going to be doing this W/E........
 
Make sure and have a good strong impact along with a 12 point 36MM socket for the balancer bolt, otherwise it isn't a bad job.
 
yeah alot of labor to get to it, but its not that bad. get a gm one if you dont want to do it frequently. it is well discussed at mcrats site about the aftermarkets. you also need new crank bolt.
 
yeah alot of labor to get to it, but its not that bad. get a gm one if you dont want to do it frequently. it is well discussed at mcrats site about the aftermarkets. you also need new crank bolt.

I've heard about going with the GM pump because of the whine that some experience from other suppliers but, I will need a new crank bolt????

Never realized that....Thanks
 
Plus a flywheel stopper, remover the starter and insert stopper, this keeps the engine from turning over when you remove the harmaonic balancer
 
yes the bolt is a torque to yield bolt. must be replaced when doing the job. and yes tim is also correct. the flywheel holding tool. that bolt is one tight sob. we usually use a socket on a breaker bar and "certified" pipe extension.
 
yes the bolt is a torque to yield bolt. must be replaced when doing the job. and yes tim is also correct. the flywheel holding tool. that bolt is one tight sob. we usually use a socket on a breaker bar and "certified" pipe extension.

This is what I used and including the socket after I cut it off of the pipe..
 

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