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Hard Starts..... GP problem?

Chief915

915A Maint Tech
Messages
406
Reaction score
1
Location
Cecilia, KY
Hey all, been awhile since I posted or even been on the forums. I've been busy moving from GA to KY, but I am finally getting settled in a little.

I am having a problem with the 94 in my signature. It isn't starting so well lately. It is colder here in KY, about 40 or so the last couple mornings, but it was beginning to do this same thing before I left southern GA where it was 65-70 in the mornings.

The problem:
First start of the day, the glow's will come on and stay on for about 10-15 seconds then go out. The truck cranks over fine, nice and fast, after about 4 or 5 seconds it will begin to fire on 5 or 6 cyls, enough to make me let go of the key, but it doesn't start. I have a manual glow button.... I will normally hold the glows on another 6-8 seconds at this point. On the second try, and another 4 or 5 seconds of cranking, it will finally start up, puff lots of black smoke mixed with a little white, and run at about 400-500 RPM for maybe 5 - 10 seconds, then it rattle's loud (diesel clatter) for half a second and starts running real nice and smooth at normal cold idle RPM (800-900 ?). If I tap the throttle while it's running slow and smoking, it will rattle loud and start running normally as soon as I tap the pedal. Once that is all over, it runs great....no missing, smoking, stalling, rough running, low power, etc. After it's been running, it starts easier, but still doesn't seem like its "right" to me. Wait light will still come on for anywhere between 1 second and 3 or 4 seconds, but it still cranks over for 4 or 5 seconds before it starts, even after the engine is up to temps. This has been going on for a couple months at least. In contrast the Hummers at work will start with basically a bump of the starter once they are warm.

What we're working with:
The glow plugs are about 5 month old AC 60G's (I put them in myself), batteries are 10 month old optima red tops, 2/0 battery cables, all connections are clean as of one week ago. This includes battery connections, GP relay connections, all grounds (battery grounds, PCM grounds at the back of the intake, etc) The GP relay clicks normally while the GP's cycle on and off. I have about 10.x volts showing on my multimeter at the relay and at the couple GP's I have checked while the glow plugs are "on". Resistance on all the GP's is about the same, don't recall the reading, but it wasn't much and none were open or 0 ohms.

Timing has been set with GMTD scan tech, TDCO has been set from -1.2 to -1.94 without any change to the problem. The fuel filter has been changed with no effect on the problem, PMD was swapped with a brand new D-Tech PMD with no change to the problem. I jumped the fuel pump relay and let the fuel pump run for 30-45 seconds before I tried to start it to rule out possible air in the system or losing prime, no change at all to the way it acts. The truck started this same way with both the factory PROM and the Heath P-series PROM. No codes, never have a check engine light. All rubber fuel lines have been replaced, no change to the problem. Injectors have about 10,000 miles on them.

It doesn't act like air in the fuel to me because it runs smooth once it starts and starts exactly the same whether it only sat overnight or for a week straight. It seems like the longer it sat, it would be even harder to start because of more air in the line. I am leaning toward the glow system, but everything seems to test good there.

I will try to remember to make a video of starting it in the morning, easier to watch than to describe.

What are your thoughts?
 
If the glows are 60g's they should be good and you can extend the glow cycle, and the connections are good, so that leads me to ask what kind of injectors did you put in?
 
I would pop the injector return lines off and check them for bubbles when running one line each bank at the return rail. Indicates sticking injectors. Course you will have to plug the return rail when you do this... I chased down sticking injectors the were rebuilds from 30K miles ago. I guess they used China nozzles. Anyway it caused major hard starting like you describe.

Air in the system can do this. Check all hoses and everything else for fuel seepage. The lift pump could run for an hour and it won't move any fuel, very little, past the leakage in the IP transfer pump. The IP has to spin to purge air. Clear return line on the IP and check for bubbles is the best test.

Check the glow plug wires in case one fell off. Verify voltage to each plug. Override the glow plugs another 20 seconds after the initial glow to get the hot. 60G's are slow to heat up. I had a glow controller that was short timing the plugs also contribute to hard starting.
 
Alright, finally got the video made and uploaded.

This video is the first start of today. It was 40* outside and the truck had been sitting for about 12 hours since the last time it ran. It was not plugged in overnight and I did not touch the manual glow plug over ride during this video.

This video is a pretty typical example of how the truck starts every morning, regardless of temprature. It did start slightly easier, with slightly less smoke, in the warmer temps in GA but not by a huge amount. Again, like I said in my original post, it starts this same way whether it has only sat over night or if it has sat for a week without running.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k64A5AGDj8Q



What are your thoughts?
 
did you try the clear return line off the ip to check for air as was suggested above? if no air unplug then ECT sensor in the coolant crossover and see if it makes a difference.
 
The smoke does clear up fairly fast but it should fire a lot quicker. I would pull a couple injectors and have them pop tested. A compression test would also be helpful.

Try plugging the truck in and see if that make an easier start. When everything is new I would recheck it all.
 
I hope you figure out the curse of the 94's, so I can fix mine.

The truck had 150k on it when I bought it, it now has 180k. I've put in a used set of injectors from my 93(they ran/started fine in the 93), then put in brand new Bosch injectors, 60g's then Bosch Duraterms, glow plug overide, relayed 92-93 lift pump hot with key on, cleaned and added grounds, Heath chip, several sets of new batteries, new batt cables, powermaster starter, new CPS, new CTS, new PMD, replaced all rubber fuel lines and o-rings in fuel filter. The glow plug overide helped the most, once it starts it runs fine. I think I've replaced about everything except the IP, if I have to replace the IP its getting a DB-2, I'm tired of messing with it.
 
Spent yesterday reworking the glow plugs and wiring. I replaced all 8 glows with another brand new set of AC 60G's and replaced the glow wiring to both banks with 10 ga wire all the way to the glow plugs. The old wiring was starting to look frayed and the connectors were definately showing their age.

This is the first cold start since the repairs. It was 40*F again this morning, and I did not touch the manual GP over ride during this video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8OFnCBJbCXU

Still not where I would like it to be as far as cold starts, but it starts better than it did yesterday.
 
The 60G's are a higher voltage glow plug and take longer to heat then the factory plugs. See how it starts with 20 seconds of glow plug time. Even with duraterms I double cycle the glows my 1993 and it starts a lot better. (The aftermarket GP controller will allow ignition off and then a full glow cycle again where the factory one would not.)

The first video sounded exactly like my 1993 with sticking injectors. They had 20K on them when they started to go FUBAR and a year later after swapping the IP they had 30K on them and 2 starters ruined. Night and day getting the injectors swapped even though they had low miles. Possible working them hard shortened their life with inferior materials used in em. I also re-ringed the engine due to a clamp falling down the intake during the IP swap.

Matter of fact here is the video of mine doing the same thing as yours. (The DB2 makes no difference with sticking injectors as it is still an air problem.)
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sh...-advance-is-on&p=312957&viewfull=1#post312957

We started to crank while the GP light was still on so it could prime and still have hot GP's to light.
 
I'd agree with the above, Chief... sounds like you got some leakdown happening. That isn't a good issue to have, either; the dribbling diesel will wash down one portion of the cylinder wall and you might end up with a ring grabbing hold.

Pull the driver's side injectors (they're easy to get at) and have 'em pop tested. If the patterns look OK, put pressure on 'em (not enough to make them pop, but almost), hold it, and see if they dribble.

A little dirt in an injector can cause that, also. Were your injectors new, or rebuilt?

Air in the lines will cause the same sort of issues, but not the grey smoke on start.
 
Were your injectors new, or rebuilt?

They were new.

I have another new spare set of Bosch's sitting here....... The question now is should I have them checked first or just replace the 8 that are in the truck right now with the 8 new spares I have without any pop testing of either set.

The closest injectjion place (that would be able to pop test) is about 45 minutes away. I guess I could call them tomorrow when they open and see what they charge.
 
Before that, you might want to try giving the glows an extra 10 seconds (manually) before cranking. 60gs heat up slower. The good news is, they are self-regulated, so they won't burn out by giving extra time.

Another thought; have you tested your LP? If it isn't pumping, and fuel leaks back, your IP will get fuel intermittently when first starting. Any little interruption in the fuel system affects cold starting.

The 94s also only (supposedly - I've seen different) supply LP power when cranking or when oil pressure is up. You might try bypassing a hot line to the LP, running it up to pressure before cranking (while you're giving the extra 10 seconds glow time)

Old guy trick - Always do the cheap and simple things first!
 
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Before that, you might want to try giving the glows an extra 10 seconds (manually) before cranking. 60gs heat up slower. The good news is, they are self-regulated, so they won't burn out by giving extra time.

I'll try that in the morning when it's cold again.

Another thought; have you tested your LP? If it isn't pumping, and fuel leaks back, your IP will get fuel intermittently when first starting. Any little interruption in the fuel system affects cold starting.!

Tried that.... I have an aftermarket LP wired to a switch, I can turn it on anytime. I have turned that LP on up to 30 sec before letting the glow's cycle, it had no effect on the way it started.

I am leaning toward injectors now that I have redone my glow system and seen War Wagon's video of bad injectors.
 
if your injectors test out good and the fuel system is good its probably your ip. your truck sounds exaclty like mine did on cold starts with my old ip. my starting troubles started about the same time as this fall and lasted the entire winter and early spring before my ip chit the bed. I relplaced my all my gps, injs, and fuel lines and the truck just continually got worse at cold starts until it warmed up and i learned to unplug the temp sensor so the ip would cold advance all the way and the truck would start right up. then during the spring the truck lost all power and it was determined it was the ip.
 
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