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Grounds issue

R

Rodd

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Location
Antelope, CA
My 98 suburban was having intermittent starting issues where it would click then nothing. This was before I replaced the IP. When I did the IP I cleaned all the grounds. When I was having the problems I would take my screwdriver and bump it at the starter and then start it up with the key. It has started happening again. I did isolate one of the starter grounds located on one of the lower intake studs on the passenger side when I was putting it back together. It wouldn't start with the key or the screwdriver till I tightened it down really good. My question is, is that the only ground for the starter or are there more?
 
Starter is my first thought too.

You could move the ground cable directly to the starter to ensure the starter is 100% grounded. After that, drop the starter for testing/ replacement.
 
When I said bump in my original post I mean that I use a screwdriver at the starter to either engage the starter for a second and it then starts right up with the key or I will start it completely with the screwdriver at the starter.
 
Check the connection on the solenoid terminal of the starter.
It also could be a problem in the ignition switch but, I`m guessing the solenoid terminal is loose or else the wires terminal is dirty and needs to be cleaned.
 
If You can hook a long wire to the solenoid terminal, run it into the cab, hook a test/probe light to the end of the wire then to ground, then when it fails, if the bulb does not light, My guess would be ignition switch.
 
Put a voltmeter on it. 9v min at purple wire on starter and 11v to starter battery connection. Run a wire to the cab from the starter if its just you to view the volts when turning the key.

Lots of bad solenoids out there that spin 3 of 4 times.
 
Thanks guy's! I ordered a new starter. Unfortunately AZ didn't have any in stock and the Starter is under warranty. I'll see if it happens with the new one.
 
I found the problem. the small stud on the solenoid is stripped about 1/8 by the base. So I took a nut slightly larger than the stud and used it as a spacer and installed the wire and all is good for now.
 
Rodd said:
Thanks guy's! I ordered a new starter. Unfortunately AZ didn't have any in stock and the Starter is under warranty. I'll see if it happens with the new one.
Click to expand...

Refund junk AZ "repaired" starter(s) and buy a 100% new Powermaster. Unless you like changing starters out often.
 
Part #9058 iirc. Summit, jegs, etc also sells them.

They recently were reworking the length of the positive stud. That starter fits more than the 6.2/6.5 and they weren’t aware of people trimming the last 1/8” off the post to clear better.

So the one you get may need the large post trimmed down.
Other than that hiccup they are the best starters and alternators available imo.

Years from now when the brushes wear out, you can send it back for them to inspect. Sometimes the do a refresh for free, othertimes a full overhaul for a charge.
 
Will L. said:
Part #9058 iirc. Summit, jegs, etc also sells them.

They recently were reworking the length of the positive stud. That starter fits more than the 6.2/6.5 and they weren’t aware of people trimming the last 1/8” off the post to clear better.

So the one you get may need the large post trimmed down.
Other than that hiccup they are the best starters and alternators available imo.

Years from now when the brushes wear out, you can send it back for them to inspect. Sometimes the do a refresh for free, othertimes a full overhaul for a charge.
Click to expand...
Thanks Will! That's where I'm going next
 
Thats the trade off. You can get a lifetime warranty one from any of the local places for less, and just keep replacing them, hopefully without them doing damage to other things like flywheel. Or just bite the bullet and pay more once for American made quality high performance parts. And wait till you hear it crank your engine over! Way faster crank speed.

And since my name is Will, you know there’s a story waiting:
Its kinda funny on the Hummer forum, because the hummer comes stock with a prestolite direct drive starter that weighs almost 3 times as much, and is barely any better than a chinese rebuild. They are sealed so you can ford water without issue, but then all the carbon and copper dust from normal use gets trapped in there and wears everything out way faster. Never heard of anyone getting iver 100,000 miles from it. And it is the second most common injury item for soldiers repairing hmmwvs because it is so heavy.

On the price and concearn the guys have about shortening life since non prestolite staters aren’t sealed I just tell them buy two, and carry the spare. The truck is still lighter weight and about price- remans used to be $750-$800 and are now down to $650. New used to be $1200-$1250 and are now down to $850-$900. Why the price drop? Because they are sitting on shelves unbought at half the rate they used to sell- i got a couple resellers upset at me for that. Word was out about go to box store and buy a reman for cheap, but they all die so fast most guys quit doing it and went back to the “right” starter.
When a couple other guys finally listened to me about power master over there, they raved over how much better it starts. The prestolite is slower cranking than stock AC Delco. So the jump in speed is even more noticed.
One of the vendors is eventually gonna become a power master reseller and sell alternators and starters I believe- that is if powermaster cuts a good margin for their resellers that only need to stock 1 type of starter and 2 types of alternators.
 
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