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Got a problem down on Long Island. Snapped Crank ?

A

Acesneights1

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Hey, a buddy of mine (godsmack) blew the motor in his truck. he is supposed to be going into the Coast Guard soon and we need to get this truck up and running. I may head down there next week or so and try to help him swap the motor. He is broke and we found a few 6.2's cheap. I need the skinny on the interchangeability . I know the deal with the injectors and tapping for the Turbo Oil line but my concerns are the crank sensor/reluctor. Does his truck have one ? it's 93 with a DB2 and a 5sp so I don't think it would have one. Also I know the oil pans can be different depending on one piece or two piece oil seals. What would the 6.2 oil pan hit ? The front diff ? His truck has a 6 inch lift so that may not be an issue. Would anyone have pics of what the two different rear main seals look like ?
Am I missing anything else ?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
no crank sensor, that was DS4 only, so 94+.

As far as i know the oil pans themselves were the same between 6.2 and 6.5, but i've never done a side by side comparison either.

6.2 should swap right in. The difference between the 1 and 2 piece rear mains is the crank at the rear main. A 1 piece rear main crank can be machined to fit a 2 piece rear main block however.

Just make sure you really flush out the oil cooler if you plan on re-using it. Any metal in there can really screw up the replacement engine.
 
I believe one of MGWs threads talked about how the 2 piece rear main pans wouldn't fit the newer trucks. I double check her threads on that tho.
 
A 93 has a i piece crank seal.My 89 allready has
oilpan should fit.
you need to swap the crank gear with reluctor and the timing cover from the 6.5.maybe the dampner pulley as well
 
x2 on the oil pan. I have a pan from a 6.5 and a 6.2. They are identical. If you're running a mechanical IP, no need for the Crank Position Sensor or the reluctor. If he wants to add it later, might not be a bad idea.

I'll likely be parting out most of my 599 motor. If you need something, let me know and I'll see if it's available.
 
Never flush an oil cooler - the manual says no and you can't get the trash out of them. Replace or temporarily bypass it. Depends on the failure - was a bunch of junk put in the oil from a bearing failure or shattering a piston? This is the test for oil cooler re-use.

New rebuilt 6.5 short injectors. At least test the one you have.

1993, DB2 IP, does not need any sensors on the timing cover or chain to be messed with.

Swap out the RPM sensor/oil pump drive. Or leave the 6.2 vac pump on as the man trans doesn't have an RPM sensor.
Remove the leak prone glow plug switch off the pass rear 6.2 head and put in a plug.
Swap out the GP controller on the rear head with the 6.5 block off plate if it has the old round plug GP controller.
Replace the head gaskets with 6.5 head gaskets is highly recommended but optional.
ARP Head Studs if you can.
New timing chain?
Swap IP's and lines or swap just the TPS sensor on the IP. Turn up the 6.2 IP 1/4 to 1/3 turn. Throttle bracket is different, round hole on 6.2 and square hole on 6.5. Can be swapped. (3 zip ties and it doesn't matter.)
6.5 lines are said to be a larger diameter than 6.2 lines although both will bolt up with minor bending.
Water pump and water pump cover need to be from the 1993 6.5.
The rest of the timing cover is usually the same.
Check the exhaust manifolds for warping and not sealing to the head anymore.
1 or 2 piece oil seals are irrelevant - long as it has a good one. My 6.2's re-powers are 2 piece.
Remove the mechanical fuel pump and rod then install the turbo drain plate.
Swap intake...
Check vibration damper 6.5 6.2 are the same these years and back.
Swap belt drive crank pulley.

Heads:
Use the 6.2 heads with 2 exhaust manifold gaskets on turbo side, and wrap the manifold with header wrap. The injectors will be tight on the heat shield. Do this if cash is low and your 6.5 heads are cracked. I have done this twice.

I recommend 6.5 heads as it is a pain to drop the turbo manifold to do injector work on 6.2 heads.

Your friend should spend the money to get a known running 6.2 or 6.5. Boycee equipment or Ted's engines for example.

2 days tops... :thumbsup:
 
Hmm ... interesting. I looked over both pans very closely, but I didn't take any measurements. I think it's something worth taking a lot of pics for, so I'll do that. I expect I'll have the pan off my 599 block tomorrow, so maybe i'll bust out the camera and take some pics.
 
Did not look at MGW thread yet, but can tell you the 6.2 to 6.5 swap I had planed the oil pans were different. They were different at the rear main seal area.
War Wagon covered it pretty well.
Don't throw away the 6.5 until you have the 6.2 running, seems like the little things sneak back up and you won't have the parts. Like maybe an injector line clip or some other small detail??
 
The pans are different as I posted in that other thread. (lots of info there)

If the 6.2 is going into a turbo 6.5 truck then there are other issues.

Depending on the year of the 6.2, they can have the older style heads with the "LONG" injectors and the angle of the injectors is different too.

This will not hurt much except that the turbo manifold will hit the injectors/lones on the RH side

This can be fixed with a spacer.

No worries at all with the DB2 injected engine.

The oil feed for the turbo can be connected to the plugged port right above the cooler lines on the LH side by the filter.

OR you can "T" the port where the OPS screws in and do it that way.

Use the oil drain back plate from the 6.5.

You must use the water pump and accessories from the 6.5 as the 6.2 water pump turns the wrong way

Basically strip all the accessories and brackets off the 6.5 and use them along with the water crossover too.

If the engine you get was from an auto tranny truck you will need to install the pilot Bearing/bushing

Be sure to install the little drain tube from the valley at the rear of the old engine onto the replacement

This assures that any fuel or oil leaks in the valley will not get into the clutch.

If you use the factory turbo, the intake will all fit as will everything else.
You will need to swap the RH valve cover so that the CDR will hook up.
Also swap the oil filler tube.

All really straight forward and easy to do.

The Pan is the biggy. 87 and later 6.2 engines will likely have the correct pan.
Late 91 and later will have the one piece rear main seal and the correct pan.

Hope this helps

Missy
 
OK, Here's the big question..On the older 6.2s what actually doesn't fit about the old pan. In other words if I use the pan that comes with the 6.2 what does it hit ? The front diff or the engine crossmember ? His truck has a 6 inch lift so if the front diff is the issue, it may not be on this particular truck. I already removed the 4x4 adaptor awhile ago because it was leaking and not needed with his lift kit.
 
WarWagon said:
Swap IP's and lines or swap just the TPS sensor on the IP. Turn up the 6.2 IP 1/4 to 1/3 turn. Throttle bracket is different, round hole on 6.2 and square hole on 6.5. Can be swapped. (3 zip ties and it doesn't matter.)
6.5 lines are said to be a larger diameter than 6.2 lines although both will bolt up with minor bending.
:
Click to expand...

If you are talking about the injector lines, I don't think there is any difference in the OD of the lines. I had a Tiny Tach on my '83' 6.2 and the RPM sensor clamps to an injector line. I swapped the Tiny Tach to my '94' 6.5. The fit of the sensor to the injector lines has to be exact for tach accuracy and it was an exact fit to the 6.5 lines.

Don
 
handcannon said:
If you are talking about the injector lines, I don't think there is any difference in the OD of the lines. I had a Tiny Tach on my '83' 6.2 and the RPM sensor clamps to an injector line. I swapped the Tiny Tach to my '94' 6.5. The fit of the sensor to the injector lines has to be exact for tach accuracy and it was an exact fit to the 6.5 lines.

Don
Click to expand...

Isn't the nipple for the injector line on a DB2 smaller than on a DS4? I'd have to go down and check it out, but I think that's the case.
 
Well, he found a used 95 6.5 so the swap should be easy. Should head down there next week to do the job. He's giving me the stuff off the new motor that he doesnt need like a functional DS4 and all the accesories to convert my CUCV to serp belt. I may grab his 6.5 heads two and swap them to the CUCV to solve the inj turbo clearence issues.
 
OrionThade said:
Isn't the nipple for the injector line on a DB2 smaller than on a DS4? I'd have to go down and check it out, but I think that's the case.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure about the fittings on the ends of the lines, I never messed with them. The only thing I did was check the diameter of the line itself to make sure the Tiny Tach pickup module would fit. If I can get this old memory to work I'll go out tomorrow with my calipers and compare the line diameter of my 83 and my 94 pickups.

Don
 
Well I came down here to visit a very sick freind and told my buddy with the 6.5 I could only spare one day. I got the motors physically swapped and the pump and lines back on his new motor so the rest unfortunatley is up to him as I have to head home today but to anyone who has any douybt about ignoring a balancer...Here's what one looks like after it breaks the crankshaft. I'm not sure what's broken as I did not get a chance to pull the pan but I can grab the front of the crank and it moves around but if I turn the crank from the flywheel end it does turn the balancer. The junky wants the motor back for 100$ core charge but I was thinkng about giving him the 100$ and taking the motor for parts.
 

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BTW maybe because the truck has a suspension lift ..IDK but getting at the motor mount bolts was easy and as far as the two upper bellhousing bolts once the intake is off and the FFM removed they are easy too. The worst part is getting the motor back in with the stick shift. There is no room to spare trying to mate to the tranny while keeping the motor high enough to clear the mounts. But like every nanuals tranny job, just as you want to give up in frustration, that last uumph and it popped together.
 
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