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GMT400 Poor Man's Alignment Check

dbrannon79

I'm getting there!
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Location
Seguin, TX
Guys, I decided to pull my 95 into the back driveway and check and adjust if needed for a quick and dirty alignment job today. I have noticed since I had pulled the TT hearing tire tread road noise more so that it had before. looking at my tires I found that both the front tires were cupping on the inside some. reading online I am finding that for some tires this is a normal thing and others say it's alignment or shocks to blame. I figured I would double check and see if anything was going on.

Since I mostly do my own alignment jobs and seem to have had decent luck with it, I would do it again just to ease my mind. I leveled the truck as best I could with my driveway all uneven and cracking. found spots for the two front tires that my torpedo level is almost dead on going my the center of the radiator support, bed floor, and bed side rails. measured the camber on both front wheels placing the level on the rim's flat area below the bead up and down check both front and back of the front wheels. I found that both fronts needed to be pulled outward as they were leaning in towards the truck slightly. Got that done with keeping the same caster angle by moving both the front and back UCA adjustments the same amounts.

after that was done I rolled the truck back and placed two pieces of old floor tile with grease in between like a sammich to give the fronts wiggle room for adjusting the toe.
when I adjust the toe I normally set two jack stands forward of the front wheels and tie a long kite string to one wrapping back around the rear wheels and up to the other front to the second jack stand, pull it tight along with using a twig between the string and tire at the far rear giving a space so it's not touching the sidewall. Then use the rear rims to measure the distance front to back of the rim adjusting the stands closer or farther away to get the strings a straight and in line with the truck as possible. as long as the wind isn't blowing too much I can get it perfectly straight.

Then I move to the front wheels and use the rims to measure front to back of each wheel, taking the difference giving me my toe in/out measurement. also making sure the steering wheel is straight with the wheels. I did all this and I'm now perfectly straight with a 1/16" toe in.

something I ran into which the truck has been like this from the day I purchased it is the rear axle is off set to the drivers side by almost 1 inch. you can see this in the distance of the string on the passenger tire comparing to the drivers side. not sure if this can cause an issue or how I would go about fixing it if I need to.

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You can see my level sitting on the radiator support. Using this method I am sure that if my rear axle is not straight it's all gonna be off since I am using it as the reference point instead of the frame. I guess I can measure the distance of the back edge of the frame to the axle tube and see if that is straight. curious though if this can be an issue even if it's straight but shifted over to the left.
 
Definitely neat and nearly no expense, but still looks like a bit too much work for me :)

I went this route:


Have to admit that I had the local shop actually use the TMR tool on my beastie, but it worked well. For fun, I bought two of the exact same tape measures just to minimize any difference in actual measurement between the two.

Not sure about the GMT400, but my SOB dually likes 1/8" toe-in.


Bonus is that if the steering is not centered, the TMR tool can also help with re-centering. But this requires jacking the front, pulling the tires, and remounting the tool for each tweak while dialing-in the steering. Or, can do like my shop did of simply pulling off the steering wheel and re-clocking it.
 
I’ve seen these tow plates. Would probably work better than my string method but for me it’s a chore to pull the wheels off with a breaker bar and reinstall. I had wanted to rotate the tires but was already too wore out for the day lol

I’ll just make an appointment for discount tire to rotate and balance them not sure if there open tomorrow. Then again I’m cringing just thinking about it. When they installed the rims later when o tried to pull one off the back I found out they somehow fubared every one of the lugs and studs on the rear axle. I had to replace everything. They must have spun them on with an impact or over tightened them. Just glad I didn’t find that out while I was on the side of the road trying to use a spare!!
 
I did craw under the back and measure the ends of the frame rail to the axle tube and it’s almost an 1/8” off so I’m assuming spring hanger bushings are sloppy. Measured the distance between the leaf springs to the string just forward of the back wheels and that’s the same on both sides. Not sure if the axle can be shifted over though since the U-bolt brackets are welded to the axle. I’m sure the whole axle with spring are shifted at the hangers due to bushings or something.
 
Took it out on the road (getting ready for fireworks tonight for my two boys). All that work and it drives the same as before I touched it. Tread road noise, has a slight wandering as it wants to follow and ruts. I’m thinking this is all due to the tire cupping in the front along with running 265/75 Pathfinder all terrain tires instead of the factory size highway tires.

Hopefully after I get them rotated some of that will to away.
 
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