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GMT400 Crew Cab Rear AC Possible Project

dbrannon79

I'm getting there!
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Location
Seguin, TX
Hey guys, I had mentioned doing something like this before on my truck. recently I learned that one of my friends is planning to sell the engine and trans out of his 2003 4x4 5.3l burb and scrap the rest of the vehicle. the burb right now is complete other than the front seats missing along with a bad fuel pump. Honestly I would buy it off him and fix it but I can't take on another vehicle at the moment. It ran and drove before the fuel pump went out, but the engine kept mysteriously loosing oil pressure though it doesn't make any noises. I think all that's wrong with it is the o-ring on the pickup tube is cracked.

with that said, I possibly could have access to all the parts to do a rear ac in my truck using the rear unit. I have been pondering on it for a bit and came to the realization that there is one major issue with this kind of project. it's connecting the refrigerant lines to the truck's AC system. on the low side hose there is no issue there, just splice in a tee somewhere between the compressor and the accumulator. But for the high side line there is a big issue... the orifice tube is on the condenser! There really is no "high" side line I could tee off from.

Throwing ideas around in my head to think if this would be a good project or not, the only thing I can come up with is it would only work if I was able to use the condenser from the burb, and move the orifice tube further up by the evaporator like the older models have it in the line coming out of the evap. The only issue with that is there is no room in that area with the trubo in that space.

I can access the line coming off the condenser going to the evaporator with the inner fender removed and that line is an all aluminum line. I don't like those orifice tube repair kits that clamp onto the line and allow you to install the orifice there, but this might be the only option.

would anyone know how the 6.5 variety of burbs in the 95-2000 era have the rear ac lines setup and where the orifice tube is located for the front unit? I need to plan this thing out entirely before I can even say it's feesable for a project. I do know I have a complete un-cracked dash waiting to install along with a full working hvac box (mine is cracked beyond repair) all just waiting to be installed when time allows. when that project starts, the entire cab will get gutted and sound deadning plus insulation will be installed at the same time. if this is feesable, I could add this to the same project. Of course I would possibly install the rear box with blower for now just to have the extra air circulation in the cab.

Please share some ideas that might work along with if anyone knows how the 6.5 burbs if this era have the rear air components tied into the front.
 
The Suburban rear ac would not fit in a 4 door pickup, it installs over the wheel well in the passenger rear corner, and is a fairly large box. In a Sub there is a Y tube coming off the condenser that splits off to the rear, and the orifice for the front goes in it as well. You could put in a small self contained under dash unit under your rear seat, but it really shouldn't be needed. I have never had anybody complain about the AC in my 2 door Tahoe not being cold enough, my kids normally ask me to turn it up. The key is to having a good modern condenser and a CLEAN evaporator core.
 
Thanks Ferm. the more I think about it, I honestly need to go talk my friend out of selling it as a parts vehicle and ether have him let me fix it for him or maybe buy it myself. If anything sell it as a whole. overall it's a decent burb. 224k miles on it, I was with him when he got it and the folks he got it from really take care if their vehicles. they only got rid if it for it's age and mileage then sold it to him cheap due to the intermittent oil pressure issue. worst case would be new oil pump for it but those 5.3's are good motors on top of a 4L60 with 4x4

as for the idea for my rig, your right. upgrade the condenser along with after I get the air box and dash replaced I am sure I will see a difference since right now air leaks out everywhere there's a vent in the dash, defroster, and floor.
 
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