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glow plugs and injectors

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pitsingerk

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Let's start off saying I'm a pretty good diesel mechanic, mostly working on Fords and constructiion equipment. I've spent the couple nights working on my Suburban to change the glow plugs and injectors. Injectors because I'm not sure how many miles are on them and the glow plugs because she wont start under 50F, I figure I'd start with the gp's and hopefully it takes care of my problem. My issue is this, I've read a bunch of threads here and the other place about changing the gp's. Most state to remove the turbo or remove the inner fender, has anyone here done the swap just going through the fender well opening or from above? I've got all the injectors changed out w/o taking off the turbo, waiting to fire it up with the new gp's. If someone can shed some light or direct me to another thread it will be greatly appreciated. I also have to say, even changeing the gp's and injectors on my powerstrokes were easier then this, on my IDI Ford motors I can do the swap in less than two hours. This has been a real bitch to say the least.
 
I've changed the glows on my 96 by only removing the wheel and inner flap. The hardest is #8 on my 96 I could reach it from above just barely. On my 94 1/2 ton couldn't do that. When I put the 4" exhaust on it got harder but still doable.
 
I just got the passenger side gp's in. Since I'm in the process of finishing up the injectors and gp's, I found that I could get to the number 8 gp from above, no problem. With the tire off and removable flap out, I was able to get the two towards the front no problem. The third one back ended up being the bastard of the bunch beacause it was partially hidden by the downpipe. The shield studs/nuts were rusted up pretty good and when I tried to break them loose, the shield broke and turned down slightly. I looked up the tube and saw that I could get to the wire and gp that way. After that it was piece of cake. Tomorrow night it gets fired back up. Too tired to finish tonight. Anything special to get these 6.5's lines bled out? On the ford IDI I would leave the lines cracked until all had fuel coming out, tightened them up and it would fire, then would go around one at a time and finish bleeding them out, is it pretty much the same here?
 
jrsavoie said:
I do that also but I've always had reservations.

I was raised being told to never run a diesel til after you bleed the injector lines
Click to expand...

I agree with that, this just looks a real mother to bleed off once the heat shields, intake and oil line is back in place. Will find out tonight.
 
What I did when changing injectors was to change one side only then fire it up and run it until it was running smooth, then change the other side. This went real smooth with no starting problems. Of course it is too late now for you to do that, but for future reference.

When having fuel lines apart just before the IP I ran a bypass power wire to the LP and pressurized the system and bled all the air out to the IP. This worked real good as it then required very little cranking to get it fired up.

Don
 
x2 on doing 1 side at a time,, with no noticeable effects did you see a bucnh of fuel come out of the lines after you unhooked it? It's like a straw you take out of a full glass by putting your finger on top first,,, nothing drips out, as the air can't go up the straw to let the liquid out.
 
the burban fired right up after about 20 sec of cranking. I'm amazed at how easy it started, always had issues with the fords. It's running great, started right up yesterday at 30F. Thanks everyone for the advice
 
That 20 sec was after an injector change and having to get the air out. Starts right up now. Best it's started since I got the truck last year. It was in the high 20's this morning, second crank over it started right up.
 
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