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getting a mill take out 6.2

chevyCowboy

I might be crazy but i ain't dumb
Messages
1,659
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Location
Springfield Nebraska
Iv tried searching and me and the search dont get along to well!!
iv decided that im going to get a military 6.2 599 (the date code puts it as a 92) to use in my 93. it is my understanding that the heads will work with the turbo aplication, so all i would really have to do is drop it in and run. BUT.... I am getting it from a company called Boyce equipment out of utah and they have been very helpfull and there price/gurantee is good. When i get the motor i am going to take the pan and heads off to check for any cracks. if cracks or other problems are found they will make it right. So sence the heads will be off i am going to go ahead and use the .10 thicker head gaskets and ARP head studs.
i thought i remembered reading some where that the timing cover and all that off the 6.5 will need to be used for some reason?? cant find it again
I am going to use the balancer that i had on the 6.5 beacouse it was new in 08
also will use all the serpentine acessories of the 6.5. im guessing it is going to be the old style v belts not sure on that tho
Will the IP on this mill 6.2 be the same db2 4911 that i had on my 6.5?
i think thats all the questions i have for know i cant wait to get the CowboyCadillac back i miss the old girl
thanks
 
i thought i remembered reading some where that the timing cover and all that off the 6.5 will need to be used for some reason?? cant find it again

Will the IP on this mill 6.2 be the same db2 4911 that i had on my 6.5?

Someone else may chime in, but if you currently have a 1993 with mechanical injection, then the timing cover should be the same. On the later electronic trucks, the timing cover has a crank sensor and would need to be changed out. You don't have that so I can see no reason to change.

If the original IP, it will not be the 4911 pump, probably a DB2 with .290" plungers. Yours has .310". But you can install your 4911. Might want to use your lines as well as a 6.5 should have larger ID injection lines.
 
Someone else may chime in, but if you currently have a 1993 with mechanical injection, then the timing cover should be the same. On the later electronic trucks, the timing cover has a crank sensor and would need to be changed out. You don't have that so I can see no reason to change.

If the original IP, it will not be the 4911 pump, probably a DB2 with .290" plungers. Yours has .310". But you can install your 4911. Might want to use your lines as well as a 6.5 should have larger ID injection lines.

i think i may have a problem with mine and need to get it rebuilt could i run the millitary one and turn it up untill i get mine rebuilt will i notice much difference in preformance.
 
Definetly use the 6.5 pump if its good,the injector lines must match which ever heads you use ,the injector angle is different,all though mine is a 85, different years 6.2 might not be. My 6.2 heads have bigger exhaust valves than the 6.5,also use the turbo precups, it will lower the compression a little, Im running victor reinz part number 3726 solicor standard thickness head gasket so far they have worked the best for me,time will tell. Thicker is better for lowering compression, but might blow quicker. My opinion is that the 6.2 engine is stronger than the 6.5. except of course the amg.
 
If your 6.5 pump is very worn the .290 pump might even run better,depends how much power you want .
 
The fast idle and cold advance will have to be changed to 12 volt if using the military ip. Military ip's are 24 volt as are the glow plugs.
 
any one know where to buy those or is it standard to relplace them when the pupm gets rebuilt i think mt cold advance was messed up i had all sorts of idle problems also what tells the cold advance to turn on?
 
The coolant temp. switch on the coolant crossover is what powers the cold advance/fast idle. AC Delco10154649 rock auto $21.79. Fast idle solinoid AC Delco 14066255 Rock auto $112 The cold advance solinoid[inside ip] is a stanadyne part. The parts can be swapped off your exsisting injection pump. Most likely the temp switch went bad was why you were having cold start problems. The temp switch can be tested with a ohm meter. The switch should be closed below 70 degrees i believe.
 
The 92 6.2 (Mil stuff) has the same basic heads as the 6.5 engines.
The 599 Block is the same casting they used on the 6.5
All the innards (except the pistons) are the same.

The 6.2 IP will work fine (need to change the shutoff and advance solenoids is all)

Turn the HP screw up about 1/4 turn or so. This is accessable either with the top off the IP or through the triangle shaped port on the RH side of the IP (Looking at the pump from the end where the lines connects)

The timing cover is not an issue, as mentioned only issue would be if using DS4 IP on electronic controlled engine)

Pretty much a bolt in swap.

Unless the leads have been swapped out and other parts changed you should be good to go with bolting the turbo onto this engine.

After about 1990 I think the 6.2 and 6.5 were using all the same castings and the injector angles and other stuff was all the same.


Good luck

Missy
 
The coolant temp. switch on the coolant crossover is what powers the cold advance/fast idle. AC Delco10154649 rock auto $21.79. Fast idle solinoid AC Delco 14066255 Rock auto $112 The cold advance solinoid[inside ip] is a stanadyne part. The parts can be swapped off your exsisting injection pump. Most likely the temp switch went bad was why you were having cold start problems. The temp switch can be tested with a ohm meter. The switch should be closed below 70 degrees i believe.

in stock form what provides power to the fast idle. the po wired it to a switch on the dash. he said something went out and that was why he did it that way
 
Depending on the particular truck the cold advance and fast idle are controled by the temp switch on the rear RH outside of the RH head.

The Pink wire with the Black stripe is the feed +++ and feeds power to the fuel heater the cold advance and the fast idle.

The feed for the fast idle and the cold advance go through the temp switch in the head.

This is shown in the 92 GM wiring book (93 should be the same)

Check the wiring plug at the RH rear of the RH head, the Pink/Black wire should be hot when the key is on.

When the engine temp is below about 100F or so the temp switch should be closed and power should flow through to the advance and the fast idle.

If the temp switch has failed then it will not work (Not all that uncommon)

If there is no power at the Pink/Black wire at the head, trace that wire back and check for power at the fuel heater.

There could be a blown fuse in the circuit too.

If the fuel heater shorts out (Possible) the fuse will blow and with that goes the heater,advance and the fast idle.

The power to the IP shutoff is a seperate circuit.

My opinion is that either the temp switch has gone south or the fuse has blown.


Missy
 
Timming cover is the same, but you might need to swap the plate that the water pump bolts to, that assy then bolts to the timming cover. On most of the Vbelt 6.2's the water pump runs opposite of the 6.5's with a serp belt.
Also, seem to remember the 6.5 fan not being able to bolt onto a 6.2 water pump.
 
Could be the advance piston is stuck or worn,to test with engine running move the timing retard lever on pump manualy and listen to your diesel clatter,or take the pump apart,I always delete the cold advance on mine by eliminating the pressure regulating spring and ball in the return line fitting,depends were intial timing is set you will have to much timing if you use the cold advance,the only reason for using it would be to help eliminate white smoke at start up.Sounds like the later 6.2s are a closer match to 6.5s than the earlier ones,my 85 block has a 2 piece rear main seal.
 
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My 92 and my 93 do not have the temp switch on the rear of the passenger head. They are both 2500HDs. The 1500 and 2500 LD had the temp switch on the head. Not shure what circuit powers it.
 
well i found the PO's number today and gave him a call to ask what he had done to the ip/inj/lp he said that at around 190K he had the IP and inj rebuilt and a new lp put on. the truck died at around 280K so its been almost 100K on the inj and ip so its deffinatly time for new injectors and i will feel better with haveing the ip gone over.
 
There is something to be said for doing everything reasonably affordable to make things right before you drop an engine in.

The amt of details I fussed over while my engine was out, greatly delayed getting the rig running. On the balance, that results in a little comfort in better knowing what you've got, after completing all the work to get it back in running condition.

Fair number of those details aren't necessarily $ related. Often time consuming though. Keep up the thinking/attention to detail. It takes some time, but might also save some $. Thinking & worrying about the details isn't always fun, but it doesn't cost much.
 
If you use 6.2 injector nozzles you will wonder why it doesn't have any power.If you have the pump gone over you should tell him to at least put a7-3 spring in it,a pump guy will know you mean,yours is probably a 7-2 or 7-1 ,this is what limits plunger travel.If its to much fuel you can still adjust the fuel screw.
 
If you use 6.2 injector nozzles you will wonder why it doesn't have any power.If you have the pump gone over you should tell him to at least put a7-3 spring in it,a pump guy will know you mean,yours is probably a 7-2 or 7-1 ,this is what limits plunger travel.If its to much fuel you can still adjust the fuel screw.

will the injectors on this millitary 92 6.2 be any differnt then the ones out of my 93 6.5?

ok let me get this straite the heads off of the 599 6.2s are the same as the heads on a 599 6.5? so the only real differences btwn a 599 6.2 and a 599 6.5 are the v belt/seprintine belt and the size of the bore?

i have contimplated just going throught this motor as well doing all things like bearings and what not but that just means more time and im really wanting to have my truck back so im going to get the IP rebuilt either new Injectors or rebuild mine (they are bosch) check the block over for cracks if none are found put it back together with .10 thicker head gaskets ( are these only made by felpro?) and arp head studs bolt my Turbo, water pump, balancer and other parts iv replace resently back on and drop the motor in.

how dose that sound
and im going to be looking for another block to do my custom build on and when its done ill drop it in and have this one as a spare
 
I dont know what the millitary injector nozzles look like, but my 6.2 85 van short body injectors looked identical on the out side,but the pintle was not flat sided like the 6.5 turbo ones, there was a huge difference in power,I then got marine nozzles on ebay for $80 for all 8 ,I didnt notice any huge difference there. The victor reinze part number I gave you is the best gasket I have found, they also make a .010 over 6.5 gasket but they are a perforated core like the felpros. The felpro has a copper wire fire ring and the victor reinze has a stainless steel wire,the solicor has a solid stainless steel core and ss wire fire ring.
 
I think pulling it down to closely examine things is a good idea. That does add the cost of some gaskets. Doesn't necessarily mean main/rod bearings, etc. Knowing the status of any potential cracks in the main webs isn't a bad thing either.

I would submit, do your best to think correct/done right first. Absolutely understand the time pressure/wanting the truck back functional again. Just gotta keep that pressure from leading to assembly errors.
 
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