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Gauges don't read right--hope it's the right place for this

M

millsroger

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Location
Bonanza, Or.
Two of the gauges I know are not reading properly. Here's a recap: Voltmeter reads low and so does the temp gauge. I get 14.1 on the battery terminals with it running, gauge shows about 12 volts--(1 1/2 notch below the 14 volt mark). Temp gauge reading about 175 degrees but the ECT sensor reads 220 ohms and per the chart that's 195 degrees. (To verify the IAT and ECT sensors I pulled them both and used a pan of water and a digital thermometer I 'borrowed' from my wife, they both read nearly identical and properly per the chart from 40 to boiling).

Wiring I can find only shows these sensors going to the ECM, can't find wiring to the panel. Have crawled all over this truck checking grounds--all good, unless I missed one.

I do not know about the oil pressure gauge. Fuel gauge is actually reading wrong at both ends of the scale, about 1/4 above F when full and it stops moving at the E mark with 5 gallons left in the 34 gallon tank---that may be a different issue.
 
the temp guage in the dash uses a seperate sender than the one for the ecm. the one for the ecm is in the coolant crossover and the dash guage is in the head. I think most all volt meters are off
 
that's the one for the dash guage the one for the ecm is between the ip and the water pump (general location) next to the tstat.
 
OK, so the one on the front of the drivers side head runs the gauge. Thanks. I can live with a voltmeter that is out of calibration a lot easier than a temp gauge.
 
BTW, AK, I saw in your sig u have a VF1000R. I have an '84 serial number 84. My pride and joy, stock original with 12k on it. Designator for mine is VFR1000, came with the gear drive stack for the cams rather than chain drive--what a crotch rocket!!!
 
You must have 'left' gauges installed then. Someone must have installed a left hand drive cluster on your truck.












:hihi: No I couldn't resist.
 
millsroger said:
BTW, AK, I saw in your sig u have a VF1000R. I have an '84 serial number 84. My pride and joy, stock original with 12k on it. Designator for mine is VFR1000, came with the gear drive stack for the cams rather than chain drive--what a crotch rocket!!!
Click to expand...

mines a gear drive as well
 
That's the "R" version, I watched the dealer put it together from the box. Sorry, I know 'off topic' and wrong forum, just ur the only other owner of one that I have run across in 20 years, a few VF's around tho.
 
Not in years. Used to be on the harley forums but got tired of the bull. I do go to Sturgis every few years with my dad's old '48 ULH flat head. It's still all original except for tune up stuff, tires and a NOS voltage reg. about 10 years ago, 34k. Getting hard to find new original style tires for it tho. It's sister is still in the crate. He bought two, consecutive SN's, one for him and one for mom but she said "no f***ing way" so it was never uncrated. Got the original paper work for both. I got them in his will almost 20 years ago.
 
Nice, I can only imagine what the one in the crate would be worth.:thumbsup:
 
Gauges are working OK now. Voltmeter is still a bit low but better. New sending unit for Temp. Pulled the cluster and cleaned the contacts--fixed the rest, all read a bit higher now--think it might have been either the +12 or gnd.
 
The dash clusters from 1992-1994 are somewhat notorious for a poor ground, causing the gauges to read a little low, but more obviously for sudden voltage dropouts to cause weird behavior like the speedometer momentarily dropping off when you increase the load like hit the turn signals. The cluster grounds with a single black wire/ring terminal attached at the metal tab under the dash, shared with the ALDL connector. Doesn't hurt to clean it up. Also doesn't hurt to pop the cluster out and spray the fingers in the socket with some good contact cleaner/protector, like Caig DeOXIT.

If you're equipped with the means to confirm all the readings via other sources - mechanical oil pressure gauge, GPS, infrared thermometer, voltmeter, then you can accurize your gauges pretty easily. I had to do this not too long ago when I bought a 454SS dash cluster for my '94. The seller neglected to tell me he'd pulled all the needles off the gauges in order to install one of those stupid "gauge face" accessories to change the appearance of the cluster, then later removed it, so none of the gauges were correct.

I pulled the lens from the cluster, gently popped the needles off the gauges, then proceeded to install them where they should be, based on my measurements. The fuel gauge could have been done with an ohmmeter but I opted instead to just set it precisely at the "Full" mark immediately after topping off the tank. I confirmed it a few times by getting it down to 1/2 tank then filling up and noting how many gallons it took. I'll say my gauges are closer to accurate than any untouched truck of this era that I've been in, and it wasn't hard work at all.

Probably goes without saying but the needles need to be installed with the engine running; when the gauges are at rest (engine/key off) they don't have a mechanical "zero" position to rest at.

Richard
 
Volt meter issue was solved by cleaning grounds and +12 connections, Temp gauge was solved with a new sensor, Oil pressure gauge was checked with a TEE and known good mechanical, reading low. OPS was replaced with the HD version, (better switch contacts, they say), now reads the same as mechanical. Fuel gauge I will live with until I pull the sender from the tank--will be doing that soon to check the sock etc.
 
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