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Fuel Pressure Issue

I have an FRC-10 from Leroy, just cleaned tank, no tank sock, 30 micron pre LP filter, stock FFM, tee w/ glowshift sending unit between FFM and IP. very low readings on pressure gauge. I don't think the LP can have issues. I suspect the gauge before the LP. Plan to add a mech gauge tomorrow to verify but wanted to get my head wrapped around how the pressure is maintained.
 
Do verify fuel pressure with mech gauge.(best place for hookup is just before the IP inlet).
IP housing pressure is maintained with the inline pressure regulator located in the return nipple/fitting at the top front of the IP(not really known to fail)
 
Yes there is return pressure regulation done in the return fitting as Bison said. Its supposed to be like 5psi, and if not working could cause low inlet pressure.
 
bison said:
Do verify fuel pressure with mech gauge.(best place for hookup is just before the IP inlet).
IP housing pressure is maintained with the inline pressure regulator located in the return nipple/fitting at the top front of the IP(not really known to fail)
Click to expand...

I stand corrected, I hit the books what I considered to be a return check valve actually per the GM IP training manual does indeed serve as a pressure regulator.
 
Turbine Doc said:
I stand corrected, I hit the books what I considered to be a return check valve actually per the GM IP training manual does indeed serve as a pressure regulator.
Click to expand...

Tim I knew you were coming back on that one...:agreed:
:D:hihi:

SSDiesel is the only guy that sells them.......I've NEVER seen one on any other vendors site/store/whatever.........Isn't it supposed to keep the prime in a extended/overnite/I havn't started my truck in a week condition.

But if it is really shot, I guess that week could be more like a few hours.
 
Well. Mechanical gauge reads 9psi at idle and glowshi! gauge reads 6. I had my wife rev it up to see the elec gauge go to 0 psi and the mech gauge maintained 6psi. While these readings are a little lower than what I have read some of you having with the same setup I definitely feel better now.
pressure gauge.jpg Eng07042012.jpg
 
Engine bay looks great, with the FFM on the "Stilts," the OPS extension clamped down nice and neat, as well as the Fuel Pressure gauge(s), Hoses and Tee's all rigged and clamped.....Nice job! :thumbsup:


6 PSI at idle......Did you confirm what PSI was at WOT and cruising?
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
Tim I knew you were coming back on that one...:agreed:
:D:hihi:

SSDiesel is the only guy that sells them.......I've NEVER seen one on any other vendors site/store/whatever.........Isn't it supposed to keep the prime in a extended/overnite/I havn't started my truck in a week condition.

But if it is really shot, I guess that week could be more like a few hours.
Click to expand...

Nope,the regulator is not a checkvalve.
The fuel system is closed loop and don't requires the system to maintain pressure with engine off.
 
bison said:
Nope,the regulator is not a checkvalve.
The fuel system is closed loop and don't requires the system to maintain pressure with engine off.
Click to expand...

So what is the function of the regulator, just to maintain pressure to the IP while the engine is running......Or is their something else in the equation?
 
buddy said:
gloshift fuel pressure gauges suck, especially if you got the 100psi one, which wont read hardly below 10psi.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm getting that the glowshift crap is just that. It is a 30psi gauge but obviously not reading correctly regardless. I am calling them in the morning to complain. :WTF:
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
Engine bay looks great, with the FFM on the "Stilts," the OPS extension clamped down nice and neat, as well as the Fuel Pressure gauge(s), Hoses and Tee's all rigged and clamped.....Nice job! :thumbsup:

6 PSI at idle......Did you confirm what PSI was at WOT and cruising?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the comments. It's not as tidy as I like but it is what I could do at the time.

I am getting 9psi at idle and 6psi revved in driveway according to the mechanical gauge under hood. Elec gauge is reading much lower. But based on numbers I have read on here, with setups similar to mine, I should be seeing at least 3psi more.

I can't quote cruising or WOT pressures since I don't trust the Glowshi! gauge.
It reads about 2-3 cruising and 0 at WOT. POS.:smash:
 
knucklehead of the day award

goes to me... :eek:

I am still trying to figure out why my fuel pressure is not what it should be with the FRC-10. Leroy (who has been great about responding to my PMs on the issue) asked me to check the screen in the pump. I did yesterday evening and it was spotless. Just as I was putting the bowl back on the wife started calling the kids and I in to get ready to leave (rushed). Somehow I didn't get the o-ring back in correctly and split it - unknowingly. So, today, I start it, run inside to grab a rag to release any air that gets to the FFM, and come back out and it dies. That is when I realize, quickly, what had happened. :mad2::mad2: Of course there is no where who has that skinny - 2in dia o-ring on Sunday.

Moral of story - get a spare o-ring and keep in your toolbox in case of bonehead mistake. I plan to buy two tomorrow.

Still wondering about my pressure though....
 
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