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Front axle leaking...

DieselSlug

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Fabius, NY
I really dont have the meny to do this right now, but it should really be done. I was wondering if anyone has ever replaced the seals where the CV shafts go into the sides of the front pumpkin and pinion seal shaft on the back of the front pumkin where the driveshaft goes in? They are all leaking VERY badly. I have to fill the front pumpkin up at least twice a month. It leaks two large puddles from the CV seals and one smaller one from the rear pinion. I just replaced my engine (AKA everything is nice and clean) and now everything is getting all grimy from the bad seals. Should i have a shop do this? Rust is a major factor here also.. I have a feeling its going to be a very expensive repair. I just dont have all the "special tools" and more importantly time.....
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Have you checked to be shure that the breather isn't plugged? A plugged or partially plugged breather would cause it to pressurize making the seals ALL leak.
 
I saw the breather line in the front drivers side corner when i replaced the engine. Should i blow through it or send a piece of wire throught there to clear it out? Obviously undo the fill cap.
 
I would remove the hose from the diff and then blow it out away from the inside of the diff.

You do not want what ever junk is in the line inside your diff. :thumbsup:
 
OK Cool, where exactly does it go into the diff? Just so im not searching around under a salt dripping vehicle when i do it?
 
I wish I could tell you. I have not owned a 4X4 Chevrolet in over 5 years. :mad2:

I also do not have my Chevrolet truck manual with me.

I would take a guess and it is towards the top like the rear.

On Edit: Look threw all the pictures you took of your front end while the motor was out. It may show up!
 
goes right to the top of the 'pumpkin' driverside, from the front slide in there by the DS tire. Once you see the fill and drains look up higher. It attaches to the radiator shroud.
 
Check the vent first, but if it's open then your best to pull the front axle as you have to remove the right side axle tube to replace the right front axle seal. The left one and the pinion seal are doable in the truck though.
 
Check the vent first, but if it's open then your best to pull the front axle as you have to remove the right side axle tube to replace the right front axle seal. The left one and the pinion seal are doable in the truck though.

Thats what i was afraid of... I really dont have the big sockets, and there is some serious rust under there. Pretty big unit in an awkward spot....
 
a Plugged vent could be the culprit,but if you have to replace the seals.Its gonna be a rotten job.
IMO you'r better of to drop the axle,its less work than removing the wheels,hubs and knuckles and such, you can even leave the CV joints on the truck.
 
a Plugged vent could be the culprit,but if you have to replace the seals.Its gonna be a rotten job.
IMO you'r better of to drop the axle,its less work than removing the wheels,hubs and knuckles and such, you can even leave the CV joints on the truck.

Thanks! The nicest day this week i will get under there and check it out along with topping it off with gear oil..
 
My sisters truck had a bad cv joint. My dad decided to put a new axle on. Once the axle was off we founf the clip that hold the axle into the diff was gone. It wasnt that hard to pull the whole differential out. My dad took it to a shop and paid them $600 to put a new clip on it and all new seals.

If I was you I would pull the whole unit out and replace everything yourself. That way you should be good for years. Find a local bearing supply, they usualy have high quality seals cheap.
 
{redneck/hillbilly101} if you really need to bandaid to leak you can T- the breather line into your vacuum pump {/end redneck/hillbillt101}
 
{redneck/hillbilly101} if you really need to bandaid to leak you can T- the breather line into your vacuum pump {/end redneck/hillbillt101}

I don't know where you graduated from redneck/hillbilly but here in the midwest they didn't cover this in the 101 class you had to go to the advanced class to get this. I beleieve the 101 class just covered adding some sawdust. I like the idea.
 
Becaue you pulled the vaccume pump off instead of hooking it to the breather tube.

Vaccum pump has been gone for almost a year, wategate sized, and solenoid bad, by the time i buy those i could have a tm. WOuldnt the pump pull too much vacuum anyway and maybe suck in some oil?
 
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