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Found my leak

6.5coalroller

6.5coalroller

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Farmland, IN
So after getting my new head gaskets on with head studs and my hx 35 turbo my truck is still leaking coolant in the same exact spot!!! Drivers side towards the back leaking down around the oil filter. I degreased everything on that side and got it dry. Started her up and layed on my creeper under the truck shining a light everywhere trying to find where is was comin from. Ended up I found a little green on the bottom of the freeze plug (second from the back) it trickled down to the lip on of the oil pan and ran back to the oil filter and dripped down. So I prolly never even had a problem with my head gaskets. I couldn't find anything wrong with them when I took them off. But you live and learn and at least I found the problem and it's not real real serious jus that I prolly won't be able to fix it wit the motor in the truck. So i'm thinkin bout jus rebuildin it this spring and puttin lower compression pistons in it. That way i'll have a pretty much brand new engine when I head to college. Not sure how much all that would cost I know Northern Auto Parts sells a rebuild kit for 1100 bucks but if I went with the lower compression pistons there wouldn't be any sense in buying a stock set too thats included in the kit. Where can I get the 18:1 compression pistons???
 
6.5coalroller said:
That might be possible but i've never done one before I need someone to walk me through it.
Click to expand...

After you get the Truck on Jack Stands and the wheel off, get out the socket set and pull every mother's son a bolt you see. Should be about 10 or so. Three lower front lip, two through the Power Brake mount, a couple on the lower lip next to the fire wall and couple more spattered about in there. The one for the Battery Support is a 10mm nut IIRC. All are accessed from inside the Fender Well. You may want to support the battery with a bungee to keep it from sagging. Just don't forget to remove it when you replace the fender well because it could prove difficult after its all bolted back up. Don't ask how I know...:rolleyes5:

Wiggle out the fender well and see if you might have missed any bolts. If not it will rattle and drop (wear gloves). Set it aside and pull the plug with your favorite technique. I like slide hammers but you probably have it figured out from here. Block heater is a great idea if you don't already have one. Mine is already on the drivers side. You'll no doubt figure it out.:thumbsup: Have a great Sr. Year.
 
After further investigation i found out that the leaking freeze plug is my block heater!!! I thought there was somethin funky lookin bout it lol. Reason I couldn't tell rite away is cuz it's not connected to anything!!! I always wondered wut that wire was hangin down there lol always looked important I just never took the time to trace it back. The connector is half gone prolly when it started leaking it corroded it as well. So now I gotta get a heater and figure somethin out with that connector before winter. Lets hear it for the class of 2010 lol.
 
It would have saved you a ton of agravation if you would have done a simple coolant pressure check beforehand.

maybe just try tighten the screw in the center of the blockheater(prob where it leaks anyway)its got a small 0 ring behind the head for seal.
I got lucky on a few occasions doing that

Just removing the rubber fender flap is enough to get to the blockheater for replacement.
removing the innerfender dont get you I got lucky on a few occasions doing thatmuch more room.
Its gonna be a PITA anyway.
 
Went to napa this morning and got a new one i'm not sure if it's 600 or 1000 i'll have to read the papers inside. Came with a new cord which I needed anyways cuz the end attaching to the heater was pretty much gone.

I'll keep the pressure test in mind next time:mad2: lol. O well I needed the head studs anyways for my turbo swap.
 
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