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Flatbed Trailer Repair

Ed HD

Formerly: Dad's 05 LLY
Messages
3,152
Reaction score
363
Location
Chuck Town, Iowa
So over winter break I did some work on our flat-bed car trailer, since the chains that were on it were tiny, had been welded back on, and one of the lights broke due to being backed into a snowbank. So, I gathered parts from Running's (Fleet and Farm place) and TSC and got to work. Funnily enough, Runnings and TSC each had one of the chains I needed (same brand even), and TSC had the LED Tail lights on sale for $40 with a full wiring kit, which was nice, because the old connector was shot, the wiring was poorly attached and the ground had broken off, even though it was only a few years old. The new tails also had grounds that mounted to the bracket, something the old ones didn't have. The chains are rated at 5k, and the weld-on links are similar. The trailer is technically 7k. I know the old chains would have never held the weight of the trailer, as one fell off somehow. Not safe at all.

Anyways, on to the pics (not the greatest, taken with my HTC Incredible):

What I started with:
IMAG0109.jpg


Tools I needed:
IMAG0110.jpg


New parts:
IMAG0111.jpg

IMAG0112.jpg


New Chain v. Old chain:
IMAG0114.jpg


After grinding the old chains off and getting to bare steel for clean welds (6013 rod)
IMAG0113.jpg


Clamped, ready to weld:
IMAG0115.jpg


Welded:
IMAG0116.jpg


I forgot to take pics of the taillight replacement, as it was getting late and I just wanted to finish. I spliced in about 3' of new wiring from the connector to the main harness (which was fine from our last replacement a few years ago) and spliced the new light units in. I then wrapped the front few feet with electrical tape to prevent chafing and the wires pulling apart, and made sure the connector was securely grounded, then painted all the bare steel with some black brake paint I had around to prevent rust. I also coated the mounting bolts for the lights with some brake terminal spray coating, as the old ones were rusted on there good, and they also ground it, so the grounds don't rust. It was a good thing I did, as the next day I pulled the trailer about 150 miles and that's the first place rust, slop and salt go off of the tires.

Sorry for the long post, but I figured I'd explain what I did, and why. Any questions, just ask. ;)
 
Looks good, I would however run a pass with 7018 over the chain. 6013 isn't great for stress.
 
Thanks for the info Leo. It was either 6011 or 6013, and I knew I'd get a lot better penetration and a cleaner weld with a clean surface and 6013. I'll have to do that when I get a chance, maybe this summer. I don't anticipate the trailer seeing much use until then.
 
Just a FYI

6010 0r 6011 are deep penetration electrodes, they are used for the first or root pass. They are good for burning out rust, paint etc.

The 6013 will leave a nicer finish.
 
7018 is good for repairing woodpecker lips isn't it? (if I remember right it is a very hard weld)

Nice work Ed, now get the rest of the pics up. :D
 
LOL, I'll have to snap some pics of the finished tongue and the tails when I go home next wknd.

I also discovered I had pics of when I did the wheel bearings. Nothing terribly special, new seals, one new inner bearing and race on the RF wheel, and new cotter pins and grease cups. Good 6 hours of work between tear-down, cleaning, parts running and installation.

IMAG0098.jpg

IMAG0099.jpg

How I organized stuff so nothing got lost over-night:
IMAG0101.jpg
 
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