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first of all! Hello from cold Norway!

E

ESTEPHAN

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hi!
i have stummbled upon a problem with my 6.5TD 1999 and maby some of you guys can point me in the right Direction,

i can start the car up as normal, runnes fine unntil it getts warm, then it sounds like it is missfireing (it cuttes of the engine in a secund befoure it runnes fine again it has even stallled out on me, all dead pedal,) and a lotts of cranking and then start, i have a tech2 and did have a look on the fulerate is rapidly bouncing when the car starts to act up,

maby its something with the pump timing?


I have changed the fulefilter,PMD New fresh Diesel and still running bad :/
 

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Plug in Tech2, select RPM test. smoothly increase speed with Tech2, the screen will show a video of how the speed is twitching.
It is desirable that it was well audible diesel.
Screenshot_2023-02-08-23-55-42-06_965bbf4d18d205f782c6b8409c5773a4.jpg
 
a video file is not permitted on the site. but here is some videos from the tech2 today, that i uploaded to youtube
and this showes how the car reacts

Any pointers for what to do?

adjusted from 650Rpm to max, and no surging on the engine
video link




tok a drive, poped a foult code after surgeing




this is parked at home with foultcodes in Ecu, still running fine in park




can someone help a cold guy out xD
 
Welcome.
You have a fight on your hands.
There are several things to check before condemning the ip (injection pump).

Be 100% positive the electrical connection pins for the pmd are not bent.

The clear line he is talking about is the fuel return line out the front of the ip, 1/4” diameter about 5” long in an arch shape. Replace that with clear line- it can be found at a hardware store as pvc that will last a couple years but need replacement. There is actual clear fuel line available from fuelline.com. I suggest a couple new screw style clamps to replace the spring clamps as the clear line will be thicker material.
You are to start the truck and watch for a supply of air bubbles. One small trapped bubble is normal, but seeing repeated flow in is not. Also watch for any other contamination.

Get a fuel pressure gauge tapped at the ip inlet -modmafia.com sells an adapter fitting where the pressure sensor can screw in. Mount the gauge permanently viewable from the driver’s seat. 8-14 psi is your range. 1-8 will allow the truck to run but is not preferred. Lack of fuel pressure creates a myriad of issues including wearing out the ip much sooner than it should.

Remove, clean, reinstall grounds on the engine. Especially the right rear side location where automatic transmission dipstick is.

Beyond these- verify proper operation of the optic sensor. Engine off, Unplug the CPS (crankshaft position sensor) and start the engine. It will crank a long time before starting but will start. It will not have full power. It it starts- the optic sensor is good. If not, optic sensor OR it’s wiring is faulty. Check bad CPS by unplugging the optic will have same effect.

Questions:
What fuel lubrication or any additives are you adding?
What is the alcohol percentage content in your fuel?
Was there any debris, water, muddy substance in the housing when replacing filter?
Did you rinse out the final screen inside the filter housing?
 
Will L. said:
Welcome.
You have a fight on your hands.
There are several things to check before condemning the ip (injection pump).

Be 100% positive the electrical connection pins for the pmd are not bent.

The clear line he is talking about is the fuel return line out the front of the ip, 1/4” diameter about 5” long in an arch shape. Replace that with clear line- it can be found at a hardware store as pvc that will last a couple years but need replacement. There is actual clear fuel line available from fuelline.com. I suggest a couple new screw style clamps to replace the spring clamps as the clear line will be thicker material.
You are to start the truck and watch for a supply of air bubbles. One small trapped bubble is normal, but seeing repeated flow in is not. Also watch for any other contamination.

Get a fuel pressure gauge tapped at the ip inlet -modmafia.com sells an adapter fitting where the pressure sensor can screw in. Mount the gauge permanently viewable from the driver’s seat. 8-14 psi is your range. 1-8 will allow the truck to run but is not preferred. Lack of fuel pressure creates a myriad of issues including wearing out the ip much sooner than it should.

Remove, clean, reinstall grounds on the engine. Especially the right rear side location where automatic transmission dipstick is.

Beyond these- verify proper operation of the optic sensor. Engine off, Unplug the CPS (crankshaft position sensor) and start the engine. It will crank a long time before starting but will start. It will not have full power. It it starts- the optic sensor is good. If not, optic sensor OR it’s wiring is faulty. Check bad CPS by unplugging the optic will have same effect.

Questions:
What fuel lubrication or any additives are you adding?
What is the alcohol percentage content in your fuel?
Was there any debris, water, muddy substance in the housing when replacing filter?
Did you rinse out the final screen inside the filter housing?
Click to expand...
thank you! I LOVE a god american V8 fight :p
 
IMG_20230209_223521.jpg
The valve closing time is defined as the time between the fronts of the pulses on the outputs "A" and "E" FSD. it is precisely for the fact that between pulses less than 0.75 ms code 1216 turns on. it is necessary to check all connectors for shorting or mechanical damage to the contacts in the FSD, on the pump the solenoid leads are under a rubber cap and are screwed with small nuts. also one of the wires is screwed to the bolt on the top cover of the pump. all contacts must be well tightened.
 
That is only on hummers, vans and some generators.
At the dealership we did hummers as well as trucks- false readings through those because the rubber hose deterioration causes collapsing inside the hose.

This is why I always promote the metal T at the ip inlet and attaching a sensor there. Then better than a temporary gauge is a permanent mounted gauge visible when driving.
Fuel related problems are frequent, so between seeing the pressure drop and a quick look under the hood when it happens at the clear line is a 10 second diagnostic that catches a majority of the issues in this fuel system.

The fuel pressure specification you listed has changed over the years, is different between truck, hummer, vans, and generators. Why? Because GM was chasing their tail the entire time. Stanadyne who built the ip says 8-14 psi in their training. GM cared about low cost and getting through warranty, then would prefer to see the rig back in the dealership for repairs or being traded in on the newer model.

Long before putting on a scan tool, best procedure is follow what the warranty diagnostic procedure was because it is the fastest and most accurate. Each step removes dozens of possibilities along the way. You can continue to throw parts at it and play with computer toys, or answer the question posed.
 
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