Finally starting my own ATT swap

[Burning oil]

Started on it lastnight right before it got dark and the mosquitoes were tearing me up! Only got a good half hour to work on it, but Im actually almost done. Tearing things down is the easy part though.
I got the oil drain tube modified.
I'll be looking at rotating the upper intake in an effort to not cut it.
Did not get pictures, but will today (if it will stop raining).

 

[DieselCash]

:nopics:

 

[Burning oil]

Tubing cutter to cut oil drain tube.

Hose extention.

Turbo off. One injector out.

New injector on left. Old ones wernt bad "looking" but I have no idea how many miles are on them.

Also installed some Durathems GPs.

More pics soon.

 

[Burning oil]

Little dab of anti seize.

Moded oil drain tube installed. New return lines.

ATT installed.


The turbo install itself went very fast, maybe an hour.
The injectors and glow plugs kicked my butt though.

Im in the process of making a prototype "sanwinch adaptor" to go between upper and lower intakes. The hope is I'll be able to eliminate the silicone hoses and avoid cutting the manifold.
Im bringing the upper intake up and forward to meet the turbo, just like the stock layout.
I have the beginings of a rough box to do the job. It will be ugly, but its to prove the concept. Later I can make the from billet aluminium or ???
I have pictures of it tomorrow.

 

[Chevypoor]

Lookin good. Will be interested to see about the "sandwich". That could be a great idea.

 

[Paveltolz]

Leroy, Here's some shots I did for reference as to the alignment of the un-modified OEM intake to the ATT.

OEM intake at the Turbo. Low and Behind.




OEM intake attached to the turbo so one can see the space between upper and lower intakes.
The upper intake is partially obscured by the A/C Hose in the first shot.




Hope these help you and others.

Have fun, looking forward to your's and AK's results. Mine should be back in my hands next week...

 

[Burning oil]

Hey paul thanks. Yes that exactly what Im doing. In your 3rd 4th pictures I just making an adaptor to fill the gap.
I have the base made and am getting ready to hit it again today to finish it up.
When I post pictures try not to laugh, its just for concept at this point and to take meassurments from for future billet versions.

 

[WarWagon]

Leroy,
Here is your chance to do the upper intake properly. It would sell for every turbo out there.
First take the factory upper and measure the air temp and MAP sensor mountings. Then sell it for scrap or converting EGR engines.
Now build a nice cnc upper intake without the factory restrictions in it.

An adapter is simply a yawn. A better intake is something to get excited over.

Your install should have the turbo blanket, header wrapping the down pipe adapter... :hihi:

 

[Paveltolz]

Hey paul thanks. Yes that exactly what Im doing. In your 3rd 4th pictures I just making an adapter to fill the gap.
I have the base made and am getting ready to hit it again today to finish it up.
When I post pictures try not to laugh, its just for concept at this point and to take measurements from for future billet versions.

Laugh...me? I'm the guy that built a spacer out of wood for a prototype and then DROVE it that way. Ran OK too except the wood kept compressing until I shouldered a bolt and had to use helicoil to repair the lower. I'm currently running studs in the lower intake. It makes it a bit of a challenge to remove and replace the upper with the silicone attached but as long as the clamps aren't ratcheted down, there's wiggle room to maneuver things around so they work.

The suggestion to make a new upper intake, one piece to the turbo is a good one. Boost sensor bolts are tapped 6mm, the boost hole is drilled 3/8" (but I'd go just one size lower to ensure tightness around its silicon boot, insert, grommet, whatever) and the IAT sensor hole is threaded 3/8" NPT.

 

[Burning oil]

No laughing please!

OK so here is the base. Made from 1 1/2" angle iron. Mitered the corners and weld it up. Then drilled holes for it to bolt down to the lower intake.


Next came making a top for the new box. I used a hole saw so I could get my SawsAll blade in. Plate is 1/4" thick.




Next I opened up the hole to match the intake openings. IMO not bad for a SawsAll by hand.


Test fitting and making locations so I could bring it in a weld it up.

Plate was drilled and taped to ecept the original bolts.

Plate welded to box.


Now Im waiting for the welds to cool off before I go work on it some more.
I might be interested in making these out of billet if there is an interest? If not atleast an ATT customer can follow this modification thread.

WW an all new upper intake IMO would cost way to much for the "6.5 croud" we are a bunch of tight asses!
I don't think it would be an improvment over this adaptor, (but I have yet to even drive mine yet so the thing may not work at all!!)

I post some more latter after I get it all buttoned up. (still have injectors and GPs to install (atleast its the easy side now).

OH on edit: The pic below I tried to delete it but it has a mind of its own and cannot be killed. Anyway I was just showing the drilled and tapped plate.

 

[JiFaire]

Wood baseplate.. I remember that one well! Made me ROFL.

All humour aside, you have to admire the ingenuity we see around here, in pursuit of a better mousetrap.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_GOmDQ_LXE

 

[great white]

Some tube, some billet, some sheet aluminum and a tig and making a new upper intake half that fits wouldn't be that hard at all....

You could even "ease" that 90 turn into a couple 45's. Air doesn't like to turn corners more than 45 without creating turbulence. The inside turn is the issue.

Warpage while welding...now that's a different story. Likely need to mill the mating surface after you were done.

 

[JiFaire]

Some tube, some billet, some sheet aluminum and a tig and making a new upper intake half that fits wouldn't be that hard at all....

You could even "ease" that 90 turn into a couple 45's. Air doesn't like to turn corners more than 45 without creating turbulence. The inside turn is the issue.

Warpage while welding...now that's a different story. Likely need to mill the mating surface after you were done.

Yep. Lots you can do to prevent warping. Depends on how diligent you want to be, and how much time you want to take. As you say though, milling the mating surfaces and using a medium-density gasket interface might be easier.

 

[Burning oil]

Way easier said than done. It would take atleast 9 hours per manifold, probably more. The cost would be to high.
Machining upper from billet would be easier once the programing was done, but still cost $300+.

Machining the adaptor around $150ish (just a guess at this point).

More pictures just as soon as I can load them.

 

[Burning oil]

Put a coat of paint on it to prevent rust. I picked a color that would be subtle.


All buttoned up sept for filter assy.


Machining from billet stock would allw for a much cleaner look. Atleast I can use this to take messurements from now.


Air filter back on. Its a ram air K47.


Since the upper is now higher the CDR tube fits under it. I did have to remove the metal tube and rotate it 180*. It just fit better that way. I'll probably make a bracket that go's to the original hold down. Also I plan to have a welder Attach a boss on the turbo to attach that "anti speader bar thingy" (whatever its called) I can weld aluminium, but wont trust my skills on this one.


Pass side. Notice that sexy alt bracket to! Soon available for sale.

 

[3500GMC]

Subtle.. :rof:

Tuning in for the seat of the pants dyno report.

 

[Paveltolz]

Nice work...I like it and it's not to be laughed at. Bolting it to the lower intake must have been fun. Universal fitted socket (looks tight) or stubby wrenches. Noticed you did the wise thing and had a rag in there (its out now right? [just kidding, its gone in the 'final' photos]).

Subtle Color...maybe not so much but it color compliments the intake hose to the turbo.

Does the IAT sensor get its ground through the wiring or contact to the intake through the bolts?
My Isspro IAT wasn't working until I removed some powder coating preventing the bolts grounding to the spacer and on down through the lower intake > block > etc. The double gaskets were also helping the non-conductivity.

 

[Burning oil]

Subtle.. :rof:

Tuning in for the seat of the pants dyno report.

Can't wait, The sandwinch adaptor took most of the day, so I'll finish up the DS injectors and GPs tomorrow then take her for a spin.

Nice work...I like it and it's not to be laughed at. Bolting it to the lower intake must have been fun. Universal fitted socket (looks tight) or stubby wrenches. Noticed you did the wise thing and had a rag in there (its out now right? [just kidding, its gone in the 'final' photos]).

Subtle Color...maybe not so much but it color compliments the intake hose to the turbo.

Does the IAT sensor get its ground through the wiring or contact to the intake through the bolts?
My Isspro IAT wasn't working until I removed some powder coating preventing the bolts grounding to the spacer and on down through the lower intake > block > etc. The double gaskets were also helping the non-conductivity.

It was'int to bad bolting it on. Was able to use regular wrenches. I glued the bolts in as I don't want them coming out. Im going to get the rag out of the exhaust pipe after I fire it up, its a good way to wipe down and clean the inside of the engine:???:
I'll be watching out for the grounding issue, thanks for the heads up.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

The intake air temp sensor grounds through the plug, so no worries there.

 

[Burning oil]

Great, one less thing...