Finally Scanned with Tech 2

[knh208]

I finally had a chance to go see my buddy at the stealership and hook up to the Tech 2 :smile5:. I felt it was really important to get to it today, because I was sitting at a stop light when my engine revved, and then died. Restarted and ran flawlessly since, but made me wonder...

So, I have the following code:
P1216 - fuel solenoid response too slow :sad:

and in stored history:
P0724 - brake switch high input
P1214 - Injection Pump Timing Offset (TDC Offset = -0.09)
P1621 - EEPROM write error (can't remember the description 100%, assumed google would help me)
P1810 - TFP Valve Position Switch Circuit

Until today, my main concern was my cruise control, as found here: http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=18837

With the stall today (first time since my chitty PMD cable came out 2 years ago) I am suddenly concerned that my DS4 is on its way out.

I tried to clear the codes, but received a communication error. I'm not sure if this is related to the P1621, but Google would suggest that error means a bad ECM.

So, given this list of codes, what do I actually have wrong? Presumably the P1216 means I should have plans to replace the pump. Is there anything else I need to look at while I'm at it?

Would the P1621 suggest that the ECM Bill sent me needs to be replaced?

Thanks in advance!

 

[JiFaire]

Contact Bill about the 1621 - usually that's a mismatch, and the error could be anywhere.

1216 - I bet you if you put some lubricity additive (try a quart of SAE 30 - the cheapest stuff you can find with as few fancy additives as possible) in your next tank of fuel, the code goes away. Keep using it and it'll probably STAY away. DS4 pumps don't really like the new ULSD fuel unless it's served as a boilermaker.

The stored code killed your cruise control... if you can clear it, your cruise will likely come back. Talk to Bill about that, too.

 

[knh208]

I've been running with 0.5L of TCW3 in every tank (average of 80L per fill) for the last 18 months or so. I will bump that up to 1.0L per fill. Thanks for the tip JiFaire. I'd buy my DS4 chrome plated bolts and fuzzy dice if that's what it took to keep it alive. ):h A little more oil in every tank is no skin off my butt.

I'll give Bill a call this morning. Now I really wish I had scanned this unit earlier. I tried 8 months ago, but the Tech 2 at the same place had a data cable with some splices in it. It was unable to communicate, so I left it until now. Hopefully this is an easy fix! :thumbsup:

I really miss my cruise too! Is there any way to clear stored codes other than using the Tech 2? Will disconnecting the batteries for a long enough period do the job?

Thanks again!

 

[JiFaire]

Hmmm... 1216 usually comes from lubricity, sometimes from failing PMD, and occasionally (when all else has failed) from failing IP - although I habitually suspect the other 2 first, because they're cheaper)

Yeah, disconnecting the batteries for long enough will clear the old codes, but then you'll have to go through the security relearn process, too, which is a PITA. Talk to Bill first - maybe he has a better idea.

 

[knh208]

Talked to Bill this morning. He's asked me to run the 2000RPM test. I'm tied up today and tomorrow, so it will be later in the weekend before I have a chance to get to this.

His immediate reaction is failing pump, but won't condemn it until there are test results. No need to throw expensive parts at it just for fun. :nonod:

I'll be giving it a healthy dose of TCW3 before heading out. I want every fighting chance possible to save this pump.

As for the inability to clear the codes, the recommendation is to give the OBDII connector a good cleaning. Any poor connections at that point will give communication errors, so I will clean the contacts with a wire brush and some contact cleaner then a smattering of dielectric grease to keep them shiny.

Wish me luck!

 

[knh208]

Added another 0.5L of TCW3 to the tank today and went for a drive. The truck ran good, and performs as it should during the 2000RPM test.

1) Drove 7 miles to my office.
2) Stopped, and shifted into park.
3) Turned off the fan, A/C and radio.
4) Slowly ramped up to 2000RPM.
5) Slowly ramped back down to idle.
6) Repeat 6 or 7 times.

There are no dead spots in the pedal, or erratic results.

I tried the same test again after I returned home. Ambient temps are 70F, so it was good and warm after that distance.

I will be using a minimum 1.0L TCW3 per tank from now on. I will check this week with the Tech2 to see if the code is still there. I'll also take the time to clean the diagnostic connector to see if I can clear the codes.

Wish me luck! :thumbsup:

 

[Matt Bachand]

Just so you know, I either add 1 quart (32 ounces) per every 20 or so gallons. (128 ounces)


Thats around a 64:1 - 128:1 ratio.

WHen Its not in there, the engine sounds loud and dry for lack of better explanation.

 

[Turbine Doc]

If adding oil made it "more better" then you are getting to end of the IPs life, better start putting away some coins for the replacement.

 

[knh208]

That's fair. I hope it has enough life left in it to get me through the year. I'd like to buy another truck then... This one is tiring out.

 

[ak diesel driver]

I started adding oil to mine over a year ago and still going strong.

 

[buddy]

Yeah, the lubricity was supposed to be there from the get go, so when adding it helps its also because it was meant to be run that way.