• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

filtering oil to burn

cub124

Half Moon Detroit #1
Messages
195
Reaction score
1
Location
stormstown PA
So I set up my filter unit, started off with a inline filter fairly large probably about 30 micron for a gas car then a 6.5 lift pump pulls it through there from the bucket to a 6 micron spin on set up off a mack truck and then through a 2 micron. Fuel line hoses are 3/8 and I have a 3/4 oil and 1/4 diesel mixture heated to 70 degrees. Also all new filters but used lift pump.

Anyways the process is going very slowly filtering 5 gallons in probably 2-3 hours. Can any other oil burners give me some words of wisdom? Should I be pushing oil through all of the filters pulling through all of them or do a need another pump between the 6 and 2 micron?
Im trying to do this as cheap as possible, currently 18 gallons of oil will break me even on the filters and the filter head.
 
Heating the oil to 150 F would speed things up, IIRC that is about the temp the oil burners heat the oil in the vehicle.

Pumps are better at pushing than pulling, maybe you could skip the 2 micron filter and use it on the truck.
 
I could use the 2 micron on the truck, Id have to ditch the small 5 micron and find room for the 2 micron but that's okay. I wouldn't mind heating the oil to 180 F but it might be hard to do in the shop unless I coil some brake line and put a torch under it but that seems like a lot of messing around to filter some oil
 
Known good oil source? Brake fluid, antifreeze and other nasty stuff from a failing engine or careless shop can end up in used oil. Soot in used oil is abrasive so figure IP and injector life in your costs and ask more about it.

Trash screen for the pump on the suction side and the finer filters on the pressure side. Electric pump's don't suck. Mechanical engine driven pumps do somewhat. 10 Micron on the suction side for oil is hard to move stuff. Gas filters can swell and plug up in diesel/oil just from the wrong fluid or water. A stainless steel screen like the Mallory cartage ($100 or so) filter may do a better job.

Hotter oil flows better.
 
Maybe Ill try to go without the gas filter and see what it does, I already used a screen filter not a very fine one though, maybe Ill buy a "tank sock" the part stores should have one.. I hope!
 
I have around $400 in my filter/pump setup. 5gal a min pump, and 3 filters. Water filters are the cheapest route, and they go down to 1 micron.

90% of the cost is the pump. I figured if I was gonna do this, I may as well do it rite. A "great plains industries" 5gal/min waste oil pump, and 2 hydraulic oil filters, first one is 33micron, and the next is 12micron. Then it goes thru a 1micron water filter. The truck has a 10 micron filter.
 
Yeah someone had recommended a water filter to me but I cheeped out. I think I have $65 into what I have now. Maybe with a better pump I'll be able to flow more, with the gas inline filter off it is better but not outstanding although oil temp did drop to about 60 degrees. Maybe someone has another 6.5 LP for sale or something 12v
 
take it from experience, go cheap and it will bite you. do it right the first time and spend as much as you can but don't run any oil until you have all the parts. a stumbling engine will cause you mpg's and savings will be lost quicker than the filter cost. injectors will eat up savings also. i have a 12 micron in front of the FFM with a pressure gauge. they are a Wix spin-on and cost 12.00 each. they will last just a few weeks before i see pressure dropping and when this oil(veg) is gone i will see if the cost outweighed the savings.
 
yeah i was thinking about throwing a pressure gauge on, and a higher micron before the 6 would be a good idea. Do you heat your oil before filtering? also what pump do you use?
 
Water grows bugs in fuel. Water causes other misery. Spend the money to keep it under control or repair stuff and then still spend the money to do it right...
 
i use a harbor freight air pump. i have several 15 gallon and a few 55 gallon barrels. oil is stored in the 15's. i have 2 pumps. one is just for the oil to go into the 55's where i mix it, with no filter on it. the other is the one i use to pump to the truck with a home filter on it.
i have gone through a set of injectors, 3 sets of GP's and an IP when i was using WATF. i have a write up on it on the other site but it wasn't pretty. i had water and probably antifreeze in it. i ran it through many filters but got impatient and didn't use a water block. i payed the price.
right now i don't heat before i filter it. i use a WVO mix and it seems to be running real good at 50/50 %. the pressure gauge, after the 12 micron, is showing 4 psi at 70 mph so it won't be long before i will need to change it. i carry 2 spare 12's and an FFM filter with me at all times.
 
Did you not know where the ATF was coming from? I'll mostly be running oil from my truck and my friends vehicles (the ones with bran new cars) lol. anyways I was thinking about getting a 10-30 micron filter with the water bowl or I could do a 10 micron with a water bowl but it has a "water guard" filter.
 
not really. it looked clean most of the time, should of been more careful at the bottom of the barrel. came from a trans repair shop. had my own barrel in the corner. i should of known when i would find cig butts in it sometimes. i don't deal with them any more. i have some WMO from my vehicles i will be filtering with the mix.
the spin-on, found out this morn, is 10 micron. it was showing 2-3 psi an hour ago so i will change it after work. takes less than a minute because of where i have it located. found an online supply with free shipping for 6.87 each by the case. half of what local store charges.
 
I cant decide if I should use the water bowl with a screen which will be a 10-30 micron or do the bowl with the water guard 10 micron as I already have a 6 micron and they are all large filters I think the 6 micron was referred to as a water separator. I just need some sort of fine screen to put in front of the pump. As for the slow flow I'll deal with it until I can find another cheap inline pump and just run 2 low pressure pumps maybe 3.

In high school when we made Bio Diesel we were having trouble with water but we found a way to get the water out without filters, we used the glycerol that settles to the bottom after the reaction and poured about a gallon back into the "clean fuel" this pulled water out really well. I don't think this could be done in this application though.
 
there are some water absorbing pellets you can run it through. put them in a pvc pipe with reducers for hose size. there's another post about them under alt fuels. they are reusable.
i would start with a 20, 10 to 6 micron filter system. i think the home filters are 20, cheap, easy to change, readily available.
you can use an old 6.5 oil pump, coupled to a washing machine motor for a good pressure/volume pump. a little welding/tapping is all needed. look for plans online. search 'sbc oil pump wvo' and you should see it.
 
also, harbor freight has a marine water pump, around 40 bucks that will work good. Pumps 260 gallons per hour at 50 PSI, SKU 94639.
200 gallon/hour, SKU 9576.
 
but they are for water? and the one says not for use with fuel or flammable liquids so it might eat away at the seals and what not. What do you think?
 
friend of mine has used one for 3 years so far. they are not spark proof so i wouldn't use it on gas but oil would not ignite on fumes.
 
Back
Top