• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Evaporator removal or repair on '95 style interior

SnowDrift

SnowDrift

Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
Messages
3,256
Reaction score
4,293
Location
Central Ohio map dot
I may have a leaking A/C line at the firewall. When I was replacing injectors this past summer, I bumped a line and it cracked and leaked all my freon out. Upon replacing it, I noticed that the threads were in pretty bad shape on the evaporator but I thought I'd take a chance since it's such a hassle to get at the evaporator in the dash. I took my truck out today and tried to cycle the defroster and didn't hear the pump kicking on and changing the engine RPM. I'm guessing that if it's got a leak, it's at that fitting. Is there a way to repair this fitting on the evaporator without removing it from the dash?

I heard of something from Four Seasons, but didn't have a link to them and that seems to be a pretty common HVAC name.

If I need to remove the dash, does anyone have instructions or tips on doing so for a '95 model?

Thanks
 
Four seasons makes it. it's called an orifice repair kit. You cut the tube and then this repair kit has a compression fitting on it. They work quite well. I have used them a few times in the past. If I remember tommorow I will try to look up the number but the books I have are outdated. I actually think I have one somewhere but not sure where. BTW this kit only works on the pressure(high) side. If you broke the bigger tube your f'ed.
 
IIRC that is the pressure one but I could be thinking of the older ones. I'll have to look at mine or post a pick but it sounds like it is. it will be the smaller of the two lines. If it is that one it's usually repairable.
 
161149 was the part number in 4 seasons but the book says 1994-1976 so may not fit 95+ but my book is from 1996 so something newer maybe offered that is not listed in my book. To be truthful I have not had to work on an evaporator yet in our bodystyle. I actually went outside in the cold to look. The dryer hooks directly to the return side of the evaporator from what I coul tell from a glance. I think the smaller line goes in lower and "should" have the orifice but it was dark outside so i couldn't see it real well.
 
I know on my 94 the orifice tube is located in the condenser in the grill. I had to repalce the condenser in mine because I couldn't get the orifice tube out of the old one. I now have to replace the evaporater in the dash because the old dryer galled the threads on the old one. At this point I think I will just replace the whold dang system to be sure it all works without needing little repairs down the road. If anyone has a drawing of the underdash parts of this thing I would apprecieate it as the vent selecter no longer selects.
 
I can probably email you a drawing. I can't post it because it's the wrong type of pic & I have no idea how to convert it. PM me your email addy & what exactly you need drawings of. I don't have A/C (thankfully) in my rig, so I don't know where the all parts go (or even what they are).
 
How cold was it when you tried to use your defroster? If it was 40 or less than there is a good chance your A/C won't come on at all. The low pressure switch and the system volume is such that at around freezing or close to it the A/C shouldn't come on at all as to avoid freezing in the evaporator. If you are already down close to the magic temp of 35-38 then that is where the A/C normally cut's off anyways.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top