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Evans NPG + watertess coolant stuff - if your rig runs hot read this

Twisted Steel Performance

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I thought I would start researching how to maintain a "cooler" coolant system WITHOUT replacing the OEM radiator (as many do when installing supercharges, turbos) I came across a product that purports to be a superior replacement to the standard/recommended Motorcraft, GM product.

The product is made by Evans Cooling and is called Evans NPG+.

Below are links to (1) the Evans Cooling site; (2) a general description of the product; (3) link to FAQs regarding the product; (4) a list of vendors throughout the U.S.; and (5) a link to performance data re NPG+ vs. 50/50 glycol products (e.g., Prestone, Motorcraft, etc.).

(1) site link:

Evans Cooling Systems - High Performance Engine Cooling and Power Production.

(2) general information re product, NPG+:

NPG+ WATERLESS COOLANT ELIMINATES BOIL OVER, CORROSION AND ELECTROLYSIS
NPG+ OFFERS 'POUR IN' INSTALLATION - BETTER HEAT TRANSFER - AND STILL "SAFE!"
NPG+ is new coolant providing dramatic improvements in heat transfer and viscosity that make the new fluid a "pour-in," not requiring changes to cooling system components. Conversion to NPG+ waterless coolant from the use of conventional antifreeze and water coolant mixes, to take advantage of the benefits of non-aqueous engine cooling, is now simple to accomplish.
NPG+ waterless coolant virtually eliminates boil over in gasoline or diesel engines - the waterless coolant allows engines to tolerate running hotter, without boiling over, and allows the cooling system to run at very low or no pressure. Because there is no water in the system engines operating with NPG+ will be free from corrosion and electrolysis, and the engines will run well no matter how hard they are driven or how hot or cold the environment is.
A blend of non-aqueous ingredients, NPG+ retains all of the benefits of Evans original NPG coolant, while improving upon its thermal conductivity by about 32 percent and reducing its viscosity by about 65 percent. It is perfectly suited for the demands of any hard working engine, and there are no plumbing or pump changes needed to use this coolant.
A cooling system according to Evans technology uses a non-water-based, high boiling point coolant (over 350º) and controls the temperature of the coolant substantially below its boiling point. This is in sharp contrast to conventional water based coolant systems that operate near the boiling point of the coolant. In conventional systems, locally generated coolant vapor may not condense but rather form an insulating barrier between the coolant jacket metal and the liquid coolant, causing hot spots to develop.
Coolant Vapor Condenses Immediately
In Evans' waterless systems, any locally generated vapor is immediately condensed back to liquid coolant and an insulating layer of vapor can't develop.
Another advantage is that cooling system pressure is minimal, prolonging the life of hoses and other components, which lowers replacement and related maintenance costs.
NPG+ works well with liquid-to-liquid oil coolers and radiators. It is important to remember that although the thermal conductivity of water is great, conversely for water vapor it is about zero. Although not a requirement, engines running with NPG+ can be operated, by choice, at higher coolant temperatures while control of metal temperatures is maintained. This fact permits the selection of higher fan control temperatures and less fuel robbing parasitic drag.
NPG+ is ideally suited for handling the extra heat that comes from EGR coolers for NOx emissions control. With increased cooling system load from EGR cooling, conventional coolants can barely handle the extra heat without larger and heavier radiators and/or larger fans that add to parasitic engine losses. NPG+ coolant, held to a temperature well below its boiling point, can successfully transfer all of that heat without requiring larger radiators or fans.
Looking ahead, NPG+ is ideally suited for handling the extra heat that will be coming from the EGR coolers in 2002 model engines for NOx emissions control. With increased cooling system load from the EGR cooling, conventional systems will likely be unable to handle the extra heat without larger and heavier radiators and redesigned engines. NPG+ coolant held to a temperature well below its boiling point, can successfully transfer all of that heat without requiring larger radiators.
Retaining Cooling Efficiency at Higher Temperatures
Engines run more efficiently when they're hot. But up until recently, inefficient cooling has limited how hot you can run a gasoline or dieselengine before serious damage occurs. Conventional coolants containing water boil (vaporize) around 225ºF near sea level. Cooling systems are pressurized to raise the average coolant boiling point, to around 250ºF, but that doesn't solve the real cooling problem, which occurs inside the water jackets of an engine.
Until the advent of Evans waterless coolants, inefficient cooling has limited how hot you can run a gasoline or diesel engine before serious damage occurs. Conventional water-based /ethylene glycol coolants, pressurized to 15 psig, boil (vaporize) at about 263ºF at sea level. Straight water boils at about 249ºF under the same conditions. The boiling points drop for increases in elevation. With water-based coolants, cooling system problems crop up at temperatures that are lower than these figures.
Furthermore, this super-heated, vaporized conventional water based coolant doesn't fully condense back into liquid until it circulates to a location that is colder than the boiling point of water. In some cases vapor can travel all the way to the radiator. Vapor entrained coolant, no matter where it is, transfers heat poorly. Super-heated, water-based coolant is very inefficient as a heat transfer medium as it circulates through a hot engine, and even through the radiator. Sometimes entrained vapor can make it through the radiator and back into the engine, a condition that will surely cause the coolant pump to cavitate, and coolant circulation to cease.
NPG Coolant Cures Many Problems!
Evans NPG (without the plus), the immediate predecessor of NPG+, is propylene glycol with proprietary additives. The benefits of NPG have been proven in thousands of applications. Of particular interest to users of heavy-duty diesels, the Evans waterless coolants avoid pump and cylinder liner cavitation erosion, again because of the large separation between operating temperature and coolant boiling point.
The anti-corrosion additives in NPG are stable and remain in solution for the life of the coolant (at least 500,000 miles) and no SCAs (supplementary coolant additives) are necessary. NPG also has almost no electrical conductivity, eliminating the damage to metals, hoses and gaskets caused by electrolysis.
Both Evans NPG and NPG+ are used as pure coolant - no water added. The non-aqueous solution boils at 370ºF (NPG) or 375ºF (NPG+), greatly reducing vaporization and eliminating vapor problems. Both coolants bathe the entire cooling jacket (permanent surface "wetting"), and significantly improve coolant surface effectiveness. Heat transfers more efficiently from the metal to the liquid coolant, and is carried off to the radiator for more effective elimination. Furthermore, any vaporized coolant recondenses while still in the engine, so the coolant continues to absorb damaging heat on its way to the radiator.
Run Hotter without Trapped Vapor
When you eliminate vapor pockets and entrained vapor from the coolant, control of metal temperatures improves because liquid coolant remains in contact with the hot engine metal at all times. With metal temperatures kept under control, coolant temperatures can be increased beyond the failure temperatures associated with water-based coolants. The ability to control metal temperatures over a much broader range of coolant temperatures opens opportunities for gaining increased performance and fuelefficiency. Physical changes to the cooling system are not necessary to take advantage of the benefits of NPG+. For the benefits that are specific to applications, please refer to the pages for those applications.
Because Evans NPG and NPG+ Coolants don't "after-boil" (boil over or vent) in the operational temperature range of a gasoline or diesel engine cooling system, you can change to a low-pressure or no-pressure cooling system (0.0 to 7.0 PSIG). While anyone servicing a cooling system must remain cautious around hot liquids, the danger of an explosive discharge of coolant from accidental cap removal or component rupture is minimized or eliminated. Low or no-pressure systems also enjoy reduced hose and gasket leakage, and longer cooling system component life. NPG or NPG+ Coolants are safe for use with all metals and totally non-corrosive to many.
Lifetime Coolants
NPG and NPG+ are virtually "lifetime" coolants. Conventional coolant must be flushed and changed at regular intervals to eliminate contaminants and renew its effectiveness. But the limits of Evans NPG and NPG+ Coolants have yet to be reached - they contain no water and only a few lifetime additives. The elimination of water virtually stops corrosion, water pump and cylinder cavitation. This means major maintenance savings to all forms of operators.
Evans NPG+ Coolant out-performs conventional coolant in freezing weather too. A 50/50 mix of conventional coolant and water typically freezes around -34ºF. Evans NPG+ Coolant - pure, with no water - remains liquid until -40ºF, when it contracts slightly and merely turns into a light viscous slurry. It will not freeze solid and expand.
Non-Toxic to Mammals
NPG+ Coolant has been determined to be non-toxic in mammalian testing. Independent tests on laboratory rats exposed to Evans NPG+ Coolant showed no ill effects. The coolant is essentially non-toxic and non-hazardous in all EPA "GLP acute oral toxicity" tests because Evans has developed a proprietary formula based on a blending of chemicals called "DIOLS," including propylene glycol. An Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) ruling is being sought regarding an anticipated "safe" classification for the NPG+ Coolant.
The NPG controlling chemical, propylene glycol, is non-poisonous, and used in such products as pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, and even foods and therefore NPG is already classified as "safe".

(3) link to FAQs regarding NPG+:

http://www.evanscooling.com/main1.htm

(4) link to U.S. dealers:

http://www.evanscooling.com/main1.htm

(5) NPG+ vs. 50/50 glycol performance data:

Evans Cooling Systems, Inc. High Performance Engine Cooling and Power Production.

This thread for everyone to consider for keeping there motors cooler. I will be using this and I have race friends that won't use anything else..... also it can be found on fleebay seller Evans cooling also.

Chris
 
Last edited by a moderator:
that was a good read but it sure is hard to get around all the "NPG+ WATERLESS COOLANT" phrases in it. at 50.00 a gallon, it better be lifetime.
 
Just a note that one of the site supporter is selling this product: Lubricationspecialist.com.

So you don't have to get it from ebay seller instead support the site supporter.

Product is good, just make sure you drain all the old coolant which has water before putting it in the cooling system.
I have not use it myself, though. There is a lot of discussion at BITOG about this.
 
Water vapor may not conduct heat but the liquid water that was turned into vapor sure is taking a lot of heat with it from where is boiled from. This boiling is not well known or understood even by engineers. However a stressed cooling system on standard coolant is going to be hurt by a medium that conducts less heat like Evans does. Diesel engines don't care and do not benefit from 'gasoline' detonation control that a uniform temperature provides as the diesel fuel system controls the start of combustion with no detonation risk. (Although a hotter engine will advance 'timing' by igniting the diesel quicker. Timing includes ignition delay in this context.)

The 6.5 isn't going to live at higher temperatures without cracking or locking up from piston scuffing and/or oil failure. So setting the system up to use that benefit isn't going to work. Further a hot 6.5 will start to boil off it's own engine oil. Going hotter has the oil start to fail and even hotter runs the pistons out of room.

The 6.5 is simply a poor choice for this product.

Again we have an airflow through the radiator problem and as a result also a serious delay in getting the cooling fan on to add airflow when needed to even out the temperature swings.
 
I wasn't thinking of using this to be able to run a hotter motor, it would seem a good thing for a towing rig that might reach high temps on short bursts and the fact of water boiling at the lower temp, and this stuff doesn't , may save things, I know that things swell when hot, the added factor of the wetting point and no steam pockets might over the life of a motor I think would make for a happy motor.

And it isn't 50$ gallon, like 32$ and it is lifetime product unlike the reg antifreeze is... Hell it couldn't hurt anything, ........
 
............And it isn't 50$ gallon, like 32$ and it is lifetime product unlike the reg antifreeze is... Hell it couldn't hurt anything, ........
it is $45.00 from most dealers but $40.00 from Lubricationspecialist.com. sorry, i was off by $5-$10.00, still way too much for me.
 
I agree with Deejaa...

Now, I remember.

You need 27 quarts of coolant which is appx. 7 gallons (cannot get partial bottle).
So the total cost is 7*$40 = $280.

Truck uses less but even at 4 gals, it is still $160.
 
I have investigated this coolant for a long time, and even called and spoke to one of the technicians at Evans. Here's the deal:

They have a coolant that has a much much higher boiling point than water or 50/50 water/ethelene glycol.

As a result, the concept is that you can run your car hotter, and at lower pressure, because the Evans coolant will continue to draw heat away from the engine and not boil over.

So, what's the problem? The problem is that there is now NO MECHANISM TO DETERMINE THE EFFECTIVENESS OF THE COOLANT.

We know that with a normal 50/50 mix, you can keep an eye on the temp gauge and know when to back off, or when things are getting dicey.

Since the Evans is designed to run safely with the coolant gauge pegging the needle, how do you know what is safe, unsafe, or otherwise? You have no method of knowing whether things are good or bad!

It might be that the Evans will work just fine at the higher temp. It might be that it won't. It might be that you were successful at getting all the water out of your system, it might be that you weren't. The temp gauge is now completely useless. You've put Evans in, put a low-pressure cap on, and your temp gauge is skyrocketing when you are towing. How much is OK? How much is safe? How do you measure whether it is working? There is no longer any way to measure the system safety/danger zones, and as a result, you simply trust that the Evans is working.

I object to removing any ability to determine whether is something is OK or not. I LIKE my EGT gauges, I LIKE my fuel level gauges, and I LIKE my voltmeter, etc.

I DON'T LIKE putting something in where I now have NO IDEA what is good or not.

So, I think that the Evans may work perfectly, but if there is no method to measure it, then I am not going to experiment.

A cardinal rule in Engineering is that if you cannot measure it, then you cannot control or manage it. If Evans came up with some kind of simple, effective way to measure and monitor whether things are "OK", then I would switch everything I have.

Sincerely,

Rob :)
 
The purpose of the product is to prevent high temps from boiling off the coolant and leaving the system empty or with air pockets and have no ability to shed heat through the rest of the cooling system.
The product remains a liquid up to very high temps and as such is still circulating and giving you the heat dissipation properties.

As far as what temps the engine can survive,they should theoretically increase when they are consistent but expansion from temp is going to affect parts the same way it would otherwise and clearances will shrink.
Over heating the rings would be less of a factor but shrinking piston and valve guide clearances would be what concerns me as well as rising oil temps.
Going above 210 on a 6.5 would still be the same risk as ever considering that a water based coolant with a 15lb rad cap won`t boil till 257F so the special coolant won`t help.
 
The point of the Evans coolant is that with no water you also get no corrosion. You also do not have to deal with steam pockets, cavitation issues, or leaks from a pressurized cooling system. It is a lifetime coolant- it never wears out. Yes, it is more expensive, and yes, it is a pain to get all the water out of an old system. At least in class 8 applications there is a fuel savings by being able to run hotter ( more efficient and the cooling fan is not on as much). No ones saying you have to run any hotter than you want to in your truck. But if you are on the bubble on temp on a hard pull showing 210 you could have hot spots ( say, the heads around the pre-combustion chambers) that are way hotter. Regular coolant would let steam pockets form. The Evans would not, and allow cooling of those areas.

It's a choice, and as far as cost it's either real expensive or real cheap. Just depends on how you look at it. Ever replace a block ruined by cavitation? ( I know, its a Ford problem) If you were in a OTR haul application and you could pick up .1 or .2 mpg with Evans I bet you would consider it. It's money in your pocket.
 
If it can keep the temp at or below 210 then it has advantages. Maybe the dual t-stat system has enough flow to offset the heat carrying capacity loss.
 
The only reason I am looking at running this is that it will not cause steam pockets and that is always a good thing. I don't plan on running my motor hotter just a more even temp through out the motor. The email I got back from the tech was that to run a 7-15lb cap and everything will be the same, just a more even cooling through the inside contact area of the heads. I have used this in over the road trucks and the computers were set up for the higher temps as they could handle them, the 6.5 I don't think can, ans I don't plan to try it, I just think that no hot spots in the cooling system will be better for the long run for a motor. I'm going to use it, keeping my temps down the same as with a water base coolant, it boils down to personal thinking is all.

Chris
 
Put Evans in my PSD 7.3 and the car (5.6L). Admit that I do not have any towing experience with the Evans yet, but I did not get it for trying to get the engine hotter, got it for the lifetime experience and that the stuff should not boil over and reduce cooling effectiveness just in case I do not catch an overheat as soon as it starts to occur. Car mechanic was very familiar with the Evans conversion as he did it on a regular basis. For the diesel mechanic, I think it was his first conversion and only comment was to watch for overheating in extreme cold temps based on feedback he got from other customers (apparently the stuff will ‘slush’ at some point, and don’t flame me, I’m just relaying).

Experience from the PSD is that the mileage seems the same, but the engine sounds a little more relaxed which is possibly from lowering the pressure. Car does not seem to know the difference as it sounds the same, get s the same mileage, and I have not drilled the cap yet.

This is on the list of things for the Burb but like others are mentioning, it is about the money and how long you are keeping the vehicle. Even with converting the Burb to Evans, I plan on towing and have no interest in moving the working temperature upward as it decreases the time from when something in the cooling system fails (impeller, leak, etc) to when the repair bills get expensive. So to me, the money in the pocket incentive comes from not having to replace the stuff based on the calendar / odo and giving me a better chance at saving the engine if the cooling system goes critical.

Am also thinking about putting Evans in the tractor as it will take away one thing that I have to track for maintenance :thumbsup:
 
Put Evans in my PSD 7.3 and the car (5.6L). Admit that I do not have any towing experience with the Evans yet, but I did not get it for trying to get the engine hotter, got it for the lifetime experience and that the stuff should not boil over and reduce cooling effectiveness just in case I do not catch an overheat as soon as it starts to occur. Car mechanic was very familiar with the Evans conversion as he did it on a regular basis. For the diesel mechanic, I think it was his first conversion and only comment was to watch for overheating in extreme cold temps based on feedback he got from other customers (apparently the stuff will ‘slush’ at some point, and don’t flame me, I’m just relaying).

Experience from the PSD is that the mileage seems the same, but the engine sounds a little more relaxed which is possibly from lowering the pressure. Car does not seem to know the difference as it sounds the same, get s the same mileage, and I have not drilled the cap yet.

This is on the list of things for the Burb but like others are mentioning, it is about the money and how long you are keeping the vehicle. Even with converting the Burb to Evans, I plan on towing and have no interest in moving the working temperature upward as it decreases the time from when something in the cooling system fails (impeller, leak, etc) to when the repair bills get expensive. So to me, the money in the pocket incentive comes from not having to replace the stuff based on the calendar / odo and giving me a better chance at saving the engine if the cooling system goes critical.

Am also thinking about putting Evans in the tractor as it will take away one thing that I have to track for maintenance :thumbsup:

Good insight. Thanks for sharing your experience.

I guess, when you put Evans, we need to make sure that the cooling sys is not leaking also.
It is going to be more expensive when trying to top it off every so often since you don't want to intro water into the system.
 
It is going to be more expensive when trying to top it off every so often since you don't want to intro water into the system.


Not sure how tolerant Evans is to a lot of water as the the stuff in my PSD did not seem to mind evaporating it (water) out of the system after conversion (IIRC ~1/3 gal).

And will also need to stock an extra gallon as in the case leakage does occur and glycol is the only stuff available to get you home: glycol + Evans = another complete flush + painful sucking sound in the wallet for a refill . . .
 
"apparently the stuff will ‘slush’ at some point"

I don't think that's an issue with the newer formula.
 
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