EFI Live data logging/reading help needed.

[Pepperidge]

On edit: here is a screenshot of the balance rates(I think)

so am I correct to think that two injectors(#'s 2 & 5) may be bad?


In Park

In Drive

OK so my truck smokes pretty good at idle...I thought it may be the tow tune...so I set it back to stock...still smokes...

so I think I figured out how to record the injector balance rates(20 seconds anyway)...anyone want to take a gander(stacks?) and tell me what I'm looking at and if they are in spec?

I'll try to attach the log...if the site does not support it...pm me your e-mail address and I'll send it to you...

Thanks,

Pepp

 

[Diesel Tech]

It does not mean your injectors are bad but that the cylinder is low on power. Most of the time it's the injector but in your case with the coolant issues that too could be causing it. One cylinder is showing it's taking away fuel while the other is adding fuel.

 

[Pepperidge]

I'm using about a quart of coolant every 400mi. don't know if that's enough to affect the injector rates...I'm not 100% positive but the coolant I'm losing is out the overflow hose...you can see it on the fender well and smell it regularly in that area...but I'm definitely no expert...so it looks like it will have to get some professional diagnosis...

 

[Diesel Tech]

If the cylinders are pushing pressure into the cooling system that means is doesn't have all the pressure in the cylinder like it should. I t will effect low engine RPM's and thata is where the balance test id run. Like I said it could be injectors going but I would fix the coolant before going to far.

 

[stacks04]

problem is fixing one or the other requires 3/4 of the same labor. i am not a shot gunner by no means, but i/d try to find the coolant pressurization cause first, or atleast go through and check what is most common history of the lb7 coolant loss. if nothing there than it is worth going into it further. the other issue could be the head studs. it is possible that they were not torqued properly. or somehow loosened just a bit. and engine removal is guaranteed now with the studs there.

 

[Sparky8370]

I know this is an old thread, but why would engine removal be guaranteed with the studs in there?

 

[Pepperidge]

Clearance issues...

Can't get the heads off with it in the truck...and if you want head studs on a motor already in the truck you'll have to remove the engine to put in the studs then to be able to put the heads back on...

the other option of putting the studs in is too risky IMO

 

[Sparky8370]

When I did mine, I put most of them in and the few that were an issue, I threaded the nut on so it would not fall out and put it in the correct hole. Then after I placed the head on, I removed the nut and threaded the stud in. Then did the rest just like normal. It's no different then the way that you would do it with tty bolts.
If that's what you are talking about, I don't think you would have anything to worry about. I have beat on mine pretty good and haven't had any problems. And when I did mine, I was rushing and followed the procedure for tty bolts. What that caused was about twice as much torque to be applied than was called for. Everybody told me that I needed to junk the studs and head gaskets. I figured I may as well just give it a shot. I loosened them all back up and followed the correct procedure. I then proceeded to beat on it enough to need a new tranny. Mostly highway stuff, putting the hammer down and running in the high 20s on the boost. I even saw over 30, which I didn't even think was possible, once when the tranny was slipping.