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Early Christmas present. Some assembly required. Batteries included. (95 burb engine)

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
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Some assembly required :mad2: Isn't it always like that? A screw driver set isn't going to cut it alone...

So dad is getting me some parts to restore the hitting on 7 of 8 Surburban engine.

Mainly a 18K mile military surplus 6.2, 1984. (Boycee equipment)
Set of locally built and balanced injectors, new nozzles, by a local Stanadyne dealer.
New FFM.
Oil cooler kit.
Custom tune.
A-Team Turbo with blanket... :thumbsup:
 
You must have been good this year:rolleyes5: OR the suburban is in your dad's yard or garage.:eek:
 
gift.jpg

Boycee equipment engine finally arrived. 1986! Not as 'clean' as the last one and has some dents and dings. The oil pan dipstick tube dent is the only concern. HB is junk like the last one was. New one with engine drop in as a matter of procedure anyway.

unwrapped.jpg

Check out the 'soot free' pushrods. Well maintained and low miles. Because even a well maintained 6.2 will have lots of soot with higher miles... This is in prep for ARP head studs and 6.5 head gaskets.

blue paint.jpg
 
Is there any loss in these 6.2 to 6.5 Frankenstien engines....What exactly is the story?.......please explain.....Do we get back that .3?
 
Is there any loss in these 6.2 to 6.5 Frankenstien engines....What exactly is the story?.......please explain.....Do we get back that .3?

Many members have used the 6.2 bottom end with 6.5 heads including Bill Heath's racer. There apparently is no noticeable loss in performance. The 6.2 also has slightly thicker casting due to the smaller bore.
 
only down fall that im aware of is unless you find a 599 casting they are the 2 piece rear main. and there is the difference in injectors but most guys use 6.5 heads any way
 
Recall a 6.5 is just a bored out 6.2 with thinner ceramic coated pistons. Some gotchas on the 6.2 heads like 1982 and a tight fit for 6.5 turbo's.

Last time I did this 6.2 to replace a 6.5 the MPG was the same and it was only down 3 MPH pulling a 28' up my favorite cliff. Precups, timing, and 6.2 injector line size may be why. 6.5 heads with turbo precups may have kept it the same.

I am only pulling the heads to add 6.5 head gaskets and ARP head studs. This will be the 2nd 6.2 bottom and 6.2 top end for me. This time it will get 2 exhaust manifold gaskets on the passenger side for extra clearance. Last one had none.

The 6.2 heads give you a tight fit between the injector lines and turbo manifold. I have a set of 6.5 heads from the worn out engine that I don't see any cracks on. (Think broken valve spring or three piece valve from high miles.) But, with less than 30K on these 6.2 heads I would rather use them. Using the 6.2 heads means the inner fender liner and manifold has to come off for injector service. The 6.2 precup style could change my mind - don't know what I have yet.

I use header wrap on the turbo manifold to keep heat down with it that close along with the tight fitting factory heat shield.

Yes, 2 part rear main.

I will have to pull and change the timing cover as well as change the crank chain sprocket for the DS4. It is cost effective to get the entire timing set...
 
Am I understanding this correctly? basically you take a 6.2L shortblock and build it up with 6.5L heads, 6.5L head gaskets, 6.5L pushrods, turbo system, and whole front cover assembly, and basically you will only suffer with the two-piece rear main seal, and a little smaller displacement? and it is completely bolt together with no modification necessary unless one wants to use 6.2L heads instead?

If I understand this correctly, I may end up doing this as well with my suburban!
 
Basically you take a 6.2L shortblock (Low mile military 6.2 surplus, started, tested, and warrantied 30+ days for $950 + shipping.) and build it up with:
  1. 6.5L heads (Optional.)
  2. 6.5L head gaskets - Required.
  3. 6.5L pushrods, 6.2 pushrods is there a difference? :D
  4. 6.5L turbo system, recommend new flea bay manifolds due to possible warpage on old ones.
  5. 6.2L needs a longer oil line made for 6.5L turbo and tap OPS with a "t" or pull the plug in the oil filter area for turbo oil. Drain is by removing mech fuel pump and the dowel that drives it.
  6. ARP head studs - Recommended: why pull it back out... (Turbo plus higher compression.)
  7. Short 6.5L injectors

DS4: (Now is the time to look at a DB2 conversion option)
  1. Whole front timing cover assembly and water pump backing plate need to be 6.5
  2. Injection pump DS4 swap with cover...
  3. Timing chain lower sprocket changed to have the 4 teeth for the CPS.
  4. H. Balancer: DS4 setup is different for the sprocket and the old 6.2 one will be well aged anyway.
  5. Oil cooler adapter fittings vary by year and may require swapping over etc.
  6. CPS and PMD could be fresh...
DB2:
  1. Change water pump and backing plate - use same 6.2 timing cover.
  2. Use same 6.2 injection pump and 6.2 lines if you wish. You could use the 6.5 larger diameter lines.
  3. Swap TPS to 6.2 IP and:
  4. Time IP by ear if needed.
  5. Set TPS by voltage.

Buddy reminds me that 6.2's are higher 21.5:1 compression. A thicker head gasket is an option.

Missy had some issues with oil pan clearance from a different oil pan.

6.2L heads call for 2 exhaust manifold gaskets and some header wrap on the turbo side. Most 6.5L heads are cracked on tear down so your budget may call for using 6.2L heads. Precups and clearance suggest 6.5L heads if you can. But I opted for an A - Team vs. a rebuilt turbo and am still $$ ahead.

If your last engine wouldn't all fit through the oil drain plug and you could read part number off the stuff that could... Replace oil cooler and lines. This engine was blown so bad that I had to flush shrapnel out of the radiator via having it 'rodded' at a radiator shop.
 
Some 6.5 DS4 injector line bending is required to use the 6.2 heads. Not happy about that.

Took the time to remove the wire mesh out of the CDR valve cover and clean the metal flakes out of it. The CDR was clean except for the metal flakes in it. I think this is one of the very few CDR's to be failed for engine failure contamination!

Used the spare 1993 oil pump drive/RPM sensor I had as the 95 oil pump drive gear ate metal.

FFM and injector return lines to be installed, motor mounts replaced, wiring, and time to drop it in.
 
Almost there we all hop you get more than 7000 miles out of this one....

How far off were the injectors? Bending the lines is something not recommended usually, since you dont want any cracks and they may have inner coating that could flake??? I think I read that somewhere, but why they would put a coating on the inside I do not know.
 
Almost there we all hop you get more than 7000 miles out of this one....

How far off were the injectors? Bending the lines is something not recommended usually, since you dont want any cracks and they may have inner coating that could flake??? I think I read that somewhere, but why they would put a coating on the inside I do not know.

I've read / been told that also, buddy ... whether it's accurate or not, I can't say. If there IS a coating inside the lines, then it makes sense not to bend 'em, though...
 
It takes a lot of bending for the DS4 lines. (The DB2 lines did not require as much bending.)
Not only do you have to bend the lines by the injectors but you have to rebend them over the valve covers so they will not touch and wear a hole in stuff from the injection pulses.

Spent the afternoon wrapping the manifolds and applying the sealer/paint to that.

Cleaned the condenser and trans oil coolers. Engine oil cooler to the scrap metal pile. Looks like it could have been running hot with the 6 blade fan and all the junk in the condenser. Oil cooler did not have as bad of a mat as the trans oil cooler did.

Made good progress and hope to drop it in and see smoke next weekend.
 
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I cant see there being a coating of some sort in the injector lines,would serve no purpose i can see.
Besides,the factory buys that stuff on the roll,they have to bend them in their final shape too,coating or not.
 
Some 6.5 DS4 injector line bending is required to use the 6.2 heads. Not happy about that.

Took the time to remove the wire mesh out of the CDR valve cover and clean the metal flakes out of it. The CDR was clean except for the metal flakes in it. I think this is one of the very few CDR's to be failed for engine failure contamination!

Used the spare 1993 oil pump drive/RPM sensor I had as the 95 oil pump drive gear ate metal.FFM and injector return lines to be installed, motor mounts replaced, wiring, and time to drop it in.

I'm looking for one,you dont happen to have nuther spare do ye?
 
I cant see there being a coating of some sort in the injector lines,would serve no purpose i can see.
Besides,the factory buys that stuff on the roll,they have to bend them in their final shape too,coating or not.

X2

I would guess it's a byproduct of manufacturing, they are probably extruded.
 
I cant see there being a coating of some sort in the injector lines,would serve no purpose i can see.
Besides,the factory buys that stuff on the roll,they have to bend them in their final shape too,coating or not.

If there was a coating and it came off it should clog the injector in a hurry, you'd think you'd hear more about this if it were true. Good points Bison.
 
Since diesel fuel could contain some water in it, I could see why any metal part it comes in contact with could have some coating on it. Something that may be alright to mess with new and bend at the facotry but aged could become more brittle. There are certainly steel lines out there that you can get with inner coatings. fuel tanks rust too, and there are coatings for the inside of that, which can come off and clog lines and filters. It doesnt seem wise, but its possible. I'm not sure that too many people bend their factory fuel lines much, so shouldnt come up often.
 
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