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Draining Fuel Filter Manager

Rodd

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Location
Antelope, CA
I am going to be doing the "Feed the Beast" mod today. I want to be a clean as possible and not leak diesel all over the back of the engine. Here is my thought... Remove fuel cap. Disconnect hose that runs between FFM & IP at the IP. Blow compressed air through the hose pushing the fuel back to the tank thus emptying the FFM. Will this work?
 
You can open the water drain valve on the front of the motor and blow into it.

It is suppose to empty the filter manager and push everything back to the tank.

I have not attempted this yet.
 
I havnt done it that way, I always just make a mess :eek: Seems worth a shot though. Let us know how it goes!
 
Put the end of the drain hose in a can and then run the lift pump to purge out ALl the crap.

To get all the fuel out of the manager just use a turkey baster and suck it out and put in a can. Stuff some paper shop towels into the manager to finish the dryout.


Missy
 
Put the end of the drain hose in a can and then run the lift pump to purge out ALl the crap.

To get all the fuel out of the manager just use a turkey baster and suck it out and put in a can. Stuff some paper shop towels into the manager to finish the dryout.


Missy

Missy,

You are every guy's dream girl.:smilewinkgrin: My wife would kill me if I used her turkey baster for working on the car. I know it couldn't be used as a turkey baster anymore but it wouldn't stop her from yelling at me.
 
I would crack the bleeder open at the flt mgr, and then remove the line from LP OUT and let it drain into a bucket....
 
Missy,

You are every guy's dream girl.:smilewinkgrin: My wife would kill me if I used her turkey baster for working on the car. I know it couldn't be used as a turkey baster anymore but it wouldn't stop her from yelling at me.

LOL, Mine freaked out on me when I used it for putting distilled water into a battery.... freaked out!
 
Getting off topic ,but I,ve found the hygrometor used to test battery is a fairly safe & handy tool for adding water.
 
Rodd,

Have you started, yet? Did you ever get a chance to do some 0-60 times or pulling tests with your current set-up? It'd be interesting to see if there is a quantitative difference.

I told my wife "your baster looks pretty old - you should buy a new one".:rolleyes5:
 
Rodd,

Have you started, yet? Did you ever get a chance to do some 0-60 times or pulling tests with your current set-up? It'd be interesting to see if there is a quantitative difference.

I told my wife "your baster looks pretty old - you should buy a new one".:rolleyes5:

Other than the t/m my truck is pretty much stock. I am doing it so it is done and that is one less thing I need to do when I get my ecm and ATT. In addition I am installing a fuel pressure gauge at the same time. This way I don't need to buy different fittings to make the fuel press gauge work later. It will be done. It won't help hp or anything now but in the future it will.
 
Put the end of the drain hose in a can and then run the lift pump to purge out ALl the crap.

We currently have no viable turkey baster for this very reason. Actually, we have it and it sits on the oil drain catch tub.

Basters work better for this purpose anyway. A ladle works better for basting.
 
I use a medical syringe. It works good and keeps the wife out of my hair for taking her turkey baster. :thumbsup:
 
I am going to be doing the "Feed the Beast" mod today. I want to be a clean as possible and not leak diesel all over the back of the engine. Here is my thought... Remove fuel cap. Disconnect hose that runs between FFM & IP at the IP. Blow compressed air through the hose pushing the fuel back to the tank thus emptying the FFM. Will this work?

Can't really help you on the spilling diesel issue, that is just one of those things that happens when you work on trucks. But for future plans you might be interested in what I did on 635's truck w/ FTB mod. I relocated the filter for easier accessability and for the larger OD fuel lines we ran. I think it worked out well. Your factory manifold has the holes to bolt to, all you need to do is fab up smothing to mount your filter to and extend your filter wires. If you are running a FTB mod than it makes it even easier to go with an upgraded braied stainless nitrial line with larger ID. Just a thought.

Ian
 

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Can't really help you on the spilling diesel issue, that is just one of those things that happens when you work on trucks. But for future plans you might be interested in what I did on 635's truck w/ FTB mod. I relocated the filter for easier accessability and for the larger OD fuel lines we ran. I think it worked out well. Your factory manifold has the holes to bolt to, all you need to do is fab up smothing to mount your filter to and extend your filter wires. If you are running a FTB mod than it makes it even easier to go with an upgraded braied stainless nitrial line with larger ID. Just a thought.

Ian

Thanks Ian! I was thinking of relocating it but wasn't sure how I wanted to do it. The picture is worth 1000 words. :D
 
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