• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Drain T valve repair

I always "snug" mine down with pliers......Not to say that is correct, but better safe than sorry.

I always have also, usually with my handy dandy Leatherman Wave needlenose pliers. This valve I'm having to exert more pressure than normal and more than I used to on that vehicle.

Does tightening the packing cap help? What kind of seal is used with the valve? Does it have an O ring or is it a machined taper?
 
They sale that drain at a home depot or a similar store.

I always have to tighten mine down with pliers also. :agreed:
 
Tighten the cap should help with leaks during pressure testing. I usually use pliers on mine to get it tight.
 
^^ I was going to say that, ya beat me to it.

I did use a 1/4" NPT ball valve,1" brass nipple and a 90 for my Rad drain though... ;)

F'n petcocks anyway..
 
I always have also, usually with my handy dandy Leatherman Wave needlenose pliers. This valve I'm having to exert more pressure than normal and more than I used to on that vehicle.

Does tightening the packing cap help? What kind of seal is used with the valve? Does it have an O ring or is it a machined taper?

I haven't had mine apart (still closing well by hand), but it does feel like a tapered seat-type seal.
 
Back
Top