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Downpipe clamp....

Matt Bachand

Depends on the 6.5
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Location
Worcester, MA
I read in 2 places there is a 7/16's or 11mm nut on the Clamp.

I have nothing. I assume mine rusted on there and whats left is the little thing you see.

I obvoiusly need a new clamp?

Any ideas?
 

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Whatever that little thing there is towards the end of the threads ,I assume thats the old nut. Is about the size of 1/4 nut. 5/32's is too big, and with all those threads showing, I am hoping i'm missing a nut. Why you would make a SS clamp with non SS hardware is beyond me.

Is this a dealer item?
 
Yeah i got mine from the dealer, its like 40 sumthin bucks. I didnt have a nut on mine either, so i used a sawzall to cut it off (obviously with the innner fender out)... Now that i look at your pics mine looked the same as yours, the timy little nut has a locking feature on it. (you can tell when you see the new one) I have one sitting on the shelf, swing by and pick it up!!! LOL
 
Yeah i got mine from the dealer, its like 40 sumthin bucks. I didnt have a nut on mine either, so i used a sawzall to cut it off (obviously with the innner fender out)... Now that i look at your pics mine looked the same as yours, the timy little nut has a locking feature on it. (you can tell when you see the new one) I have one sitting on the shelf, swing by and pick it up!!! LOL

So thats it for today then, install my fender liner and wheel and put the new exhaust away for for a week or so.... poo

No enthusiasm left for the truck today... no desire to re-assemble without the uprade!!!
 
Yep your nut has rust away to almost nuttin. Mine did too. You could try a little smaller socket or just cut it off. SS Diesel has the clamp too. $42.99 plus shippin.
 
all you need is another bolt,easy to make yourself.
piece of 1/4" SS treaded rod welded to a a short piece of 1/4" rod to make the T.
 
Zow, that's rusted.

Use a dremel tool with a cutting wheel and you might be able to do it without removing the inner fender. If it gets difficult at all, then drop the fender. It's not hard, just watch the edges.

I agree with just getting a long bolt, I found it was easiest to install using a deep socket and an air ratchet (assuming the inner fender is still on there.)

-Rob :)
 
Found a dealer 30 miles away who had one in stock. Got it in! Have to work the tailpipe a bit though, it interferes with the rear tank. Its not that loud at all, as low rumble drone, more whistle.

It does make my truck feel lighter, and do notice the turbo spool up quicker for sure.

When I block the tailpipe, I'm leaking a tad from the downpipe clamp. I tried 3 different times including flipping it over. Its not much, and can't notice it without blocking tailpipe. I don't want to snap the new clamp....

Same thing with the new clamp, but says made in mexico, different branding.

100% stainless steel, except for the nut ... what a joke.
 
Found a dealer 30 miles away who had one in stock. Got it in! Have to work the tailpipe a bit though, it interferes with the rear tank. Its not that loud at all, as low rumble drone, more whistle.

It does make my truck feel lighter, and do notice the turbo spool up quicker for sure.

When I block the tailpipe, I'm leaking a tad from the downpipe clamp. I tried 3 different times including flipping it over. Its not much, and can't notice it without blocking tailpipe. I don't want to snap the new clamp....

Same thing with the new clamp, but says made in mexico, different branding.

100% stainless steel, except for the nut ... what a joke
.
Tell me about it.

I burried some waterlines to my livestock drinkers 8' deep 8 yrs ago, got some leaks last winter,dug all along the stupid line to find the breaks. happened to be rusted out iron screws on the 100 % SS clamps gave way.:wtf::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2:
what is the use going stainless for peace of mind if the FFen bolts rust out.
 
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